Bad Back Log Splitter

[Bighat]

Well, I started building a log splitter this spring because I couldn't put everything together this past winter that I needed to build it. I burn about 14 cords a year and split it all by hand and I'm getting a little older, just a little, so I decided I needed a new tool to help out. I split a lot of oak, hickory, walnut and cherry where I'm located. I've never owned a splitter and never used one that much so I wasn't sure what was out there or what I needed exactly.
A couple of years a ago I had three large pig nut hickory trees that had been standing dead for 3 to 4 years. They were around 30" or more at the butt. I started hand splitting them at the top and the further down the trunk I got the wetter and harder they got, even using wedges, so I called my buddy with a log splitter and ask him if I could use it. Well, I made out, he brought the wood splitter and he stayed and helped. It was a vertical splitter so I set on a log and fed this machine for the next 4 1/2 hours. The next day, or I should say the next three days, I couldn't hardly stand up straight. Bad back, I lived a quiet and easy life in my younger years. I told my buddy that the wood splitter was faster but I just won't be able to walk for a few days. So, I knew I didn't want a vertical splitter.
After researching and deciding what type of splitter to build and then putting together all the materials it took longer than I expected so the build started in spring, right when everyone is busy as heck. Well here's some photos as we started.



Found all the steel at the local scrap yard. The beam is a 8"x 8". 1/2" center thickness and 9/16" thick flange area. Very heavy beam.



The piece above is the start of what will be the device that moves the movable wedge up and down.



Here we're making some headway. Got the movable wedge installed, the push plate and the rear cylinder mount is going in place.



Closer!



Not the best picture but you can see the converted air tank that's my new hydraulic tank.



Another good picture, I'm not a camera man. Engine and pump mount on, log lift on, hitch on, Yea! Time to take it home, take it all apart again, wire brush grind it, primer, sand, paint and put it all back together. Yea! Sounds like a alot work, I'm tried.



It's Home. Now the fun stuff, take it apart.



Front view of the movable wedge.



Under view of movable wedge.



Close up view of log lift. You can see the cylinder mounts but it's just wire up at this time. Moving it in the garage now to get to work.

 

[Bighat]

In the garage, Yea!

 

[Bighat]

Grind, Grind, Grind!



The 4 way wedge will go completely flush with the beam so you can split a log in two halves if needed.



Not there yet.


The cylinder is a 5" bore with a 4" shaft and 24" stroke. The hydraulic tank is an old 20 gal. air tank. The engine is a 13 horse Honda with a 22 gpm pump.



Now, I know many of you may be wondering about the design of this 4 way wedge but this is the back saving part of the machine. I'll try to explain how to use this splitter. You've seen 4 way wedge work, you split a 24" diameter piece of wood four ways, it falls on the ground and you have to bend over and pickup every piece again, re-split it and maybe pick it up and split it again. That's a lot of bending on my old back. Here's what you do, don't try to split the wood four ways just split the lower part of the wood to the size you want to burn. These two smaller piece will fall on the ground and the two larger pieces up top will fall on the wide tray wedge. Then you need to have your log lift raised level with the beam of your splitter and you take one half of the wood on the tray and slide it onto the log lift, slide it, not pick it up. Then you take the other half piece and slide it back on the beam and re-split it to smaller pieces and repeat as needed. Now all your correct size pieces are on the ground behind the splitter. Get a big pile, pull the splitter up a little bit. Now you only have to bend over to load the wood. Back saver.
I just got the valve in the other day and haven't had time to put it on and plumb the machine yet. I have already tested all the cylinders and movements of the cylinders by hooking them up to the tractor, everything seems to work. I'll post the completion of the machine and a video when I get it all together. Shouldn't be to much longer, I got to get to work, winters coming.

 

[Preston]

My only question is the position of the beam to axle point connection. What you have seems like it would put a lot of pressure/weight on the center of the axle. Would that not eventually bend? I would put some sort of brace support on it. But I like what you've done. Really nice work.

 

[robson1015]

test split video ??

 

[sam-tip]

Did you know with a large rod shaft cylinder you will have 61 gpm of oil coming out of the cylinder on the return stroke with the 22 gpm pump. Suggest larger hose on the main (push) end of cylinder and a dump valve /(pilot valve).

 

[Bighat]

My only question is the position of the beam to axle point connection. What you have seems like it would put a lot of pressure/weight on the center of the axle. Would that not eventually bend? I would put some sort of brace support on it. But I like what you've done. Really nice work.

The axle is a 3500 lb axle I got for nothing because it was slightly bent. We had to cut it and weld it back. We didn't get just right. Pulled bad when we weld it. We even clamped it to a piece of angle but we still didn't get right. It pulls good. I took it home at 45 to 50 mpg. Pulls straight. The splitter mostly will not leave the farm, only road pulling will be to another buddy's farm a few miles away.

 

[Bighat]

Did you know with a large rod shaft cylinder you will have 61 gpm of oil coming out of the cylinder on the return stroke with the 22 gpm pump. Suggest larger hose on the main (push) end of cylinder and a dump valve /(pilot valve).

Good point, you know about splitters. When I spoke with the gentleman I was purchasing the valve from he suggested a dump valve. I told him how much I would split a year, about 14 to 20 cords, and that I will not be working the machine all day splitting. I'll go out and split a cord or so and then spend the other part of the day hauling it in and stacking it. The hauling and stacking part is more work than the splitting part. The gentleman told me to use a temp gage and if it starts getting hot to quick, order the dump valve. I'm going to try it without the dump valve just because of the way I will be using the splitter.

 

[Tiewire]

Nice! I like it.

 

[unclemoustache]

Nice! very clever. Video ASAP!!

 

[mt.stalker]

Beautiful fab work , my hat is off to you !

 

[user 122190]

Nice work. A video would be nice.

 

[JB Weld]

I like it!

 

[blades]

Try to stay away from 90 deg fittings , use hi-flow fitting and if possible plumb with at least 3/4" lines ( this will go a long way in keeping heat build up down- log lift won't need much likely need a restrictor there to keep from flinging a round into the next county(1/4- 1/8" line is plenty). If the cylinder has 1/2" ports might check and see if it can be redone to 3/4" ( might cost to much though)

 

[Bighat]

Try to stay away from 90 deg fittings , use hi-flow fitting and if possible plumb with at least 3/4" lines ( this will go a long way in keeping heat build up down- log lift won't need much likely need a restrictor there to keep from flinging a round into the next county(1/4- 1/8" line is plenty). If the cylinder has 1/2" ports might check and see if it can be redone to 3/4" ( might cost to much though)

The fittings are 1/2 " in the cylinder. The guy at the hydraulic shop made up the cylinder and had them on before I got to tell him I want 3/4". I going to plumb the machine at the hydraulic shop and I'm going to check with him and see if we can change them.

 

[Bighat]

Beautiful fab work , my hat is off to you !

I done the fabing an a buddy of mine, a retired boiler maker, done all the welding.

 

[GM_Grimmy]

Good point, you know about splitters. When I spoke with the gentleman I was purchasing the valve from he suggested a dump valve. I told him how much I would split a year, about 14 to 20 cords, and that I will not be working the machine all day splitting. I'll go out and split a cord or so and then spend the other part of the day hauling it in and stacking it. The hauling and stacking part is more work than the splitting part. The gentleman told me to use a temp gage and if it starts getting hot to quick, order the dump valve. I'm going to try it without the dump valve just because of the way I will be using the splitter.

You will be over loading the crap out of your valve which creates heat. For what it's worth, I would just get the dump valve to start out with, and plumb it in. You could always cap the pilot and run some tests, see how things go, and then hook it up. My splitter was just finished being built and tested, and I have to run one, as I have up to 64 GPM on the return stroke (5" bore, 3.75" rod, 24" stroke). It helps keep the oil cooler as well. I have an oil cooler on mine to help with oil temps though. I'm sure pics will be posted soon.

Anyways, I would suggest the dump valve. With that rod diameter, it's a must. Heck on a lot of 22 gpm units, a dump valve should be used, according to the math and ratings of the valves.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I have to agree with the above suggestions given. It will get hot with 1/2" lines and the flow you will have on the return it will really be fast. I'm running a 28 GPM pump with all 3/4 ports on valves and cylinder, bypass valve and long sweep 90 where I had to put a few and it gets pretty warm. It does not take long either as that fluid is moving. Compound that with smaller ports and 90's and you make it worse. I'm assuming the port on your valve is 1/2" as well? With my set up it is a little over 8 seconds on push and 6 seconds on return with a 24" stroke. That is a 5" bore, 2 1/2" rod Prince cylinder. I'm running a 30 gallon tank too. You're moving a lot of fluid through smaller orifices so what I'm saying is be aware of it.

Watch your back mount on the cylinder too, I'm overkill but a little more weld surface goes a long way back there. I'd suggest some gussets but you have it painted now. With just a 2 way you'd be normally okay. The 4 way will put a lot of stress back there.

 

[Oldman47]

I have been reading about temperature problems. Why not use an oil cooler on the return line? Even a small one made for a motorcycle engine would be better than overheating.

 

[Deleted member 135597]

I have been reading about temperature problems. Why not use an oil cooler on the return line? Even a small one made for a motorcycle engine would be better than overheating.

what are you going to use for airflow through the cooler? I guess you could mount a fan but what will power the fan?