Walbro HDA Testing Question

[cuinrearview]

I've never done a popoff test. Think ur problem is elsewhere.

I didnt think that there was a problem...

 

[mdep]

Not workin for a livin anymore so I have time. Brand new new at this so I don't know much, just what I read here and other places. Some info is good and maybe some no so good. Regarding the pop off, I was worried about being too lean mainly. I actually think there's something else wrong with the carb too. We'll see, hopefully.

 

[mdep]

I think I'll wait until Friday when it's above freezing to tune the saw.

 

[mdep]

Made a couple trys at tuning the carb today. Would start but kept dying and blew smoke. I thought I had H and L settings at one turn out but they were more like 2 out. Set them at one turn and no more smoke but it kept dying. Turned in T several turns and thing starts easy and runs with no smoke. Can even give it full throttle. Chain does turn a bit at idle. Will try a fine tune tomorrow.

 

[mdep]

OK so I did notice the saw was blowing out fuel so I bent the metering arm down a tad and made sure carb pressure tested good. That seemed to fix the fuel issue. Saw started up easily. I tuned the thing and L, H and T operated as they should. Got it to idle good, accelerate good. Starts easy cold and warm. The gas tank leak repair held good.. Lookin good. The RPM meter I bought was actually only an hour meter so will have to wait to adjust idle and full throttle speed. Was able to cut an oak log pretty good with a chain I sharpened myself (for the first time)

I do still temporarily have the shortened metering spring installed. I will use the new metering spring I have on order though. Will see how that works. I also ordered another carb (Zama C3-EL/18B). Figured I will need it at some point.

There were a couple things:
1. A lot of oil on the chain/bar and dripping from bottom of clutch area. I did adjust the oil supply valve. Anyone know if I need to seal or replace the black rubber oil channel which I think would be the cause?
2. Had the saw on side while checking the oiler and fuel leaked by the throttle trigger area. Is that a normal thing to happen if laying the saw on the side?

 

[ncfarmboy]

Check tank vent they will leak when laying on clutch side.
Shep

 

[Ketchup]

Maybe I missed it in one of the threads about this, but did you put it back on the saw and try and run it yet? I've re-built a couple 159s lately and threw them back on the saw. And it runs fine

Same here. Getting too tech can waste a lot of time.

All that oil is probably just from piss revving the saw without cutting anything. I've ruined a couple pairs of pants trying to find a tune without putting it in wood. (A couple more from not checking flippy caps.)

X2 on the tank vent being your fuel leak.

 

[mdep]

Saw was laying on the flywheel side with fuel in it while checking the oiler. Regardless, sounds like carb is OK and it is running fine. Thank you.

 

[HarleyT]

Glad you got her going.....

 

[Ketchup]

If you have a tank vent leak it won't hurt the saw, but it is annoying. If you have that part of the saw open at some point I recommend investigating.

Glad to hear you got the carb sorted. Are you still running the trimmed lever spring?

 

[mdep]

If you have a tank vent leak it won't hurt the saw, but it is annoying. If you have that part of the saw open at some point I recommend investigating.
Glad to hear you got the carb sorted. Are you still running the trimmed lever spring?

I will take it apart and investigate. I have the time. My goal has been to learn about chainsaws and this saw has been very helpful.

The vent is pushed in a little but never noticed it leaking. I guess my question should have been: should I expect the fuel to leak anywhere if I tip it sideways or even upside down. Aside from the vent and where the fuel line enters the tank, is there any other place it could leak that would be normal? Like should there be any way for fuel to enter the handle area where the trigger is? I did see fuel drip from there after the saw was laying on the flywheel side. The seam directly below and facing the trigger which I repaired is not leaking.

Yes, the shortened spring is still in the carb. Did not receive the new spring yet but I will replace the spring. When I do, I will check the pop off again. However, I won't worry about not getting the needle to pop off using MityVac pressure. I'll just want to make sure that it does reseat and holds pressure after it pops off , even if I have to make it pop off manually. I assume I shouldn't even have to adjust the needles since they are already working ok.

 

[Huskitoter]

No. It is not normal for a tank to leak near the trigger. Keep in mind that new AM tanks only cost around ten bucks if it looks difficult or impossible to repair.

Congrats on getting some wood cut.

 

[mdep]

I turned over saw in every orientation and couldn't find any fuel leak. So that's good, must have been dreaming.

I put the new metering spring in the carb. Could not make it pop off up to 30 PSI. It did reseat and held when I manually made it pop. No carb leaks, installed in saw and fired right up with good idle and good acceleration. Still no RPM meter yet so have no idea of running speeds.

Also, cut the top off the stump of tree I dropped last year. It was 16 degrees.
Problem solved.

 

[HarleyT]

Nah. Take it back apart and make sure the passage under the needle is clear, and make sure the lever height is correct,
a good sealing needle is not a bad thing

That is my philosophy...