A corded Electric Chainsaw /review

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Wow

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So a friend talked me into buying a 120 volt Chainsaw several years ago.
It's a Worx WG303.1
The on / off trigger Sticks ON.
This saw has a chain brake. If the chain brake is pushed forward a switch stops the motor. EXCEPT when the Trigger switch sticks ON. So yesterday the saw would NOT STOP RUNNING when I released the trigger so I automatically instantly pushed the chain brake forward. Guess what! That STOPPED the chain BUT the motor was TRYING TO RUN. A loud humming and smell of burning insulation followed. Immediately I unplugged the cord. That's dangerous. In Electrical School you NEVER SHOULD unplug a Loaded extension cord. This saw was pulling something like 15 amps or better.
I reacted very quickly. The saw cooled and seems to be working. This is NOT the first time this switch has failed. I can't find anyone selling these switches. I've made up an extension cord with a switch. Before anyone starts in, I hold a degree in Electrical including house wiring. I use 3/12 copper wire short 12 foot extension cord for the saw. It's on a 3/12 20 amp breaker. It's NOT ME. IT'S the saw. In several years this saw gets used once in a great while on my front porch to trim a few inches off firewood that may not fit the wood heater.
On a positive note. It automatically oils. It's cleaner and quieter than my cs352. It actually cuts well for an Electric corded saw.
I'm NOT upset but people should be forewarned. Since it's used so very seldom I may build a safety system for it. Maybe a solenoid type. A second switch maybe. One on the top handle that must be held closed as well. Kinda like an AND GATE in Digital equipment. This AND That switch must be closed. ANY SAW that keeps the chain moving and won't stop immediately is dangerous.
What amazes me is the safety brake is NOT wired to stop the power from being applied UNLESS the Trigger switch opens. Yet IF the Trigger opens then the safety opens. I've not did a tear down to inspect but IF those two switches are wired where one open means both are disconnected THEN there may be a really serious problem inside the his saw. It's done this several times almost from the start.
 
Do you have a question? Is your quest to get help finding a switch for your homeowner grade POS? Have you contacted the manufacturer?

I am not a lawyer, and I don’t play one in TV, or forums. Neither are you.

This is not legal advice.

Do you have a good lawyer? Do you have bulletproof insurance? Hint, there is no such thing.

Do you not have enough money or sense to destroy this accident waiting to happed and replace it? Get a hand saw.

How much is your time worth, and the safety of your family and other people in your life?

Take some law and product liability classes to add to your electrical degree.
 
To quote a post you wrote, on a safety thread that you started, on this forum 2 or 3 years ago “No need to solve a problem that can be prevented.”
 
Believe me. I know how to be safe. I'm trying to warn others. This saw has limited use but it's safer to store on a screened in porch than petrol. Sometimes a stick of firewood will be a few inches to long. This saw cuts it off fine. Then the wood chips are swept up and burned. There are a LOT of people buying and using Electric corded chainsaws. My post is a warning. If anyone has a problem with the post it's their problem not mine. I'm to wise for name calling or game playing. No one is MY problem and I'm not anyone's problem. Yes, the Attorney in the family is standing by. So if anyone cares to try to buy a replacement switch and succeeds I'd be interested. However my guess is there's more than a switch problem. I've ALREADY built an emergency cut off for mine. I'll continue to SAFELY use it and NO ONE ELSE will be allowed to use it. As I've stated many times. Just because one man can use something doesn't mean any man can do so. This advice is free. If it has value you are welcome. If it has no value toss it away but killing the messenger isn't helping anyone.
 
Should do the tear down to see what's going on with the saw. Both switches should be in series so that if either one is open, the power should be shut off. I'm sure there is a safety agency in the USA similar to our CSA that has to issue an approval before these things can be brought to market, and in it's present state, it should not have passed. Aside from the serious safety issue, sticking switches can sometimes be made to cooperate by drilling SMALL holes in places that will allow lubricant to be sprayed in, if it's just a mechanical issue with the switch.
 
After thinking a bit, the switching must be a little more complex because when the brake deploys it should not only cut the power but disable the trigger switch so that after the brake is reset, the trigger switch also has to be released before it can be pulled on again. Sounds like there is a "latch" function inside the switch that is interlocked to the brake and it is this function that is sticking. Is the actual trigger sticking in the "on" position or does it return normally but something inside the switch is sticking on? In normal use, if you hold the trigger switch on and trip the brake, does the motor start up as soon as you reset the brake, or do you have to release the trigger before you can restart it? I repair as many electrical power tools as gas chainsaws and hope you get to the bottom of this and post results.
 
WORX is not, in my opinion, the pinnacle of corded electric chainsaws. But it seems that you found an unexpected failure mode, which poses a risk of significant injury, and is not acceptable.

In addition to posting here, please consider reporting this defect to the Consumer Product Safety Commission:
https://www.saferproducts.gov/IncidentReporting
As well as to WORX:
https://www.worx.com/contact-us10130 Perimeter Pkwy,
Suite 300
Charlotte, NC 28216
855-279-0505

Reporting this defect may protect others from injury.

Thanks.

Philbert
 
WORX is not, in my opinion, the pinnacle of corded electric chainsaws. But it seems that you found an unexpected failure mode, which poses a risk of significant injury, and is not acceptable.

In addition to posting here, please consider reporting this defect to the Consumer Product Safety Commission:
https://www.saferproducts.gov/IncidentReporting
As well as to WORX:
https://www.worx.com/contact-us10130 Perimeter Pkwy,
Suite 300
Charlotte, NC 28216
855-279-0505

Reporting this defect may protect others from injury.

Thanks.

Philbert
I will call this number.
What I did was build an extension cord with a switch that cuts power to the saw.
The issue does not repeat often. It's unpredictable. The electrical term is "intermitted".
Those are the hardest to troubleshoot.
The saw cuts about as well as my Echo C's 352 but is used only a few times a year unlike my petrol saws.
During the firewood cutting season I use Echo saws cs590, cs490, cs352 and Sthil 029 modded, Sthil 024, Sthil 026. The Electric saw is strictly for temporary use.
My time is limited and I don't have a lot of spare time to waste on a cheap saw right now. For now the cut of switch is working well but I will call the number and talk to someone.
The brake switch when off stops the trigger switch from activating normally. That made me think these two switches were common. However when the trigger switch jammed flipping the safety switch forward did Lock the chain BUT the power to the saw motor was still applied. Brake amps is about 15 amps. That can burn up stuff real fast. 120 Volts AC RMS X 15 = 1800 watts. The average microwave operates at about 1200 watts 12.5 amp load. So yep things get hot fast.
Testing while saw was off via safety switch showed that pulling releasing and cycling switch didn't work immediately because when safety switch was flipped on saw continued to start running again. Several attempts of cycling the trigger proved successful. After stuck switch finally began to operate properly then and ONLY then did the hand brake safety switch successfully keep the trigger switch from Activating the saw. 10 minutes of run time and the saw didn't lock in the on position. Cycling the trigger several times and unsucessfully removing the applied electromotive force by the trigger switch let me to Question if this switch has contact points which may be sticking or damaged by arcing. Arcing normally occurs when a switch is opned under a heavy amp load like while the motor is loaded. To prevent ( or lessen the effect) the operator should make sure the chain is not stressed when the trigger is released. Knowing that and me being the only operator on this saw the possibility of arcing is less than the possibility of corrosion or a poorly designed or damaged switch. This Is not a professional saw even though the FIRST Chainsaw ever built by Andreas Sthil WAS electric.
As stated this saw is used very seldom.
Back I'm guessing around 1994 Poulan sold a green corded saw for 49 and change. Craftsman had a clone black. My house was built in 93 and by the winter a friend introduced me to the safety and convince of an electric trim saw for the occasional oversized firewood. That saw had the manual oiler and I absolutely hate manual primer bulb oilers. I gifted that saw and bought the Word 303.1 which I do infact think does a super job for a cheap corded saw.
I read on line where one guy used one on DC and arced his switch. He built a new one for DC. My thinking is a proper capacitor installed across the switch would have protected a DC arc but capacitors conduct AC therefore the AC would just bypass the switch kinda like it's doing now.
RMS value is the trick to using DC. Many units using 120 AC RMS will operate on 120 Volts DC. However DC as we know doesn't like to be switched on and off with light duty switches otherwise your riding mower wouldn't need a solenoid between the battery and the starter.
The MOST IMPORTANT thing here is knowing THAT a Corded chainsaw CAN AND HAS been known to keep running when the trigger is released.
Please, please be aware and make sure to have another way to kill the applied electricity.
IF ANYONE ELSE has ever experienced a corded chainsaw switch sticking, PLEASE POST your experience. Thank God an inexperienced person wasn't operating this saw. Never in all my years have I ever had this happen to ANY OTHER piece of equipment. I was very unpleasantly surprised and educated. Be safe. Also chaps won't help much with electric saws. Study that and be safe. Eye protection please. Properly adjusted and sharpened chains. All power equipment is dangerous.
 
My first experience with corded electric chainsaws was over 40 years ago, when a friend who was a doctor, and heated with wood was worried that his Sears gas saw was going to make his hands go numb. This was before a lot of the A/V improvements. So he bought a Sears electric chainsaw and was very happy.

My first chainsaw was also a Sears electric, made by Poulan. Pretty good saw. 12Amp? Later, I discovered really cheap electric saws, and more expensive ones. I now have Makita, Jonsered, Oregon, and other electric chainsaws (never tried the STIHL ones). Quality is a factor.

In your situation, I would be looking for an OEM replacement switch, as well as letting the company and CPSC know: you may not be the only one.
Also chaps won't help much with electric saws.
This is not a verified fact. The ANSI tests are based on gas saws, so electric saws cannot comply by default. But a number of electric saws do have cut-out features, or will overload a properly sized circuit breaker, etc. The lawyers require the statement on chaps, because, there are also high powered (220V, 15A) chainsaws, just like there are 90cc gas saws that will cut right through a pair of basic homeowner chaps. STIHL clearly recommends the use of chaps with their battery and electric saws in their literature and on their website.

Philbert
 
My first experience with corded electric chainsaws was over 40 years ago, when a friend who was a doctor, and heated with wood was worried that his Sears gas saw was going to make his hands go numb. This was before a lot of the A/V improvements. So he bought a Sears electric chainsaw and was very happy.

My first chainsaw was also a Sears electric, made by Poulan. Pretty good saw. 12Amp? Later, I discovered really cheap electric saws, and more expensive ones. I now have Makita, Jonsered, Oregon, and other electric chainsaws (never tried the STIHL ones). Quality is a factor.

In your situation, I would be looking for an OEM replacement switch, as well as letting the company and CPSC know: you may not be the only one.

This is not a verified fact. The ANSI tests are based on gas saws, so electric saws cannot comply by default. But a number of electric saws do have cut-out features, or will overload a properly sized circuit breaker, etc. The lawyers require the statement on chaps, because, there are also high powered (220V, 15A) chainsaws, just like there are 90cc gas saws that will cut right through a pair of basic homeowner chaps. STIHL clearly recommends the use of chaps with their battery and electric saws in their literature and on their website.

Philbert
The chaps info is good to know. I always wear chaps with petrol saws but was told years ago the torque of Electrical saws would just cut through. What bothers me is my electric saw DOES NOT have the slip clutch. If it had a clutch just maybe the chaps would stand a better chance of stopping the chain. I'd REALLY like to know IF my experience is an isolated incident OR IF others have had this happen and if so WHAT brand of saws..
In 60 years of working with power tools a few power tools have had switch failures where they went totally out and the tool stopped working BUT NEVER has one stuck ON.
 
My neighbor's cheap electric saw stopped when the nose sprocket was jammed with a small piece of kite string, that he accidentally picked up. My Makita electric has a slip clutch in addition to the electric switch. Some electric chainsaws also have electric chain brakes that stop the chain instantly; some coast for a second or so. We did some informal tests with a battery saw and a pair of retired chaps (lots of YouTube videos on this too).

I had my Delta table saw switch fail in the 'ON' position. Also a Porter Cable router. Neither of these were 'cheap' tools, but somehow, very fine sawdust worked its way into each switch and prevented the contacts from opening when the switch button / toggle was moved.

It was a little scary when I thought about it afterwards, but more confusing at the time. Neither one was a 'panic stop', but more like, "Man; that thing is taking a l-o-n-g time to coast down . . . . !"

Philbert
 
My neighbor's cheap electric saw stopped when the nose sprocket was jammed with a small piece of kite string, that he accidentally picked up. My Makita electric has a slip clutch in addition to the electric switch. Some electric chainsaws also have electric chain brakes that stop the chain instantly; some coast for a second or so. We did some informal tests with a battery saw and a pair of retired chaps (lots of YouTube videos on this too).

I had my Delta table saw switch fail in the 'ON' position. Also a Porter Cable router. Neither of these were 'cheap' tools, but somehow, very fine sawdust worked its way into each switch and prevented the contacts from opening when the switch button / toggle was moved.

It was a little scary when I thought about it afterwards, but more confusing at the time. Neither one was a 'panic stop', but more like, "Man; that thing is taking a l-o-n-g time to coast down . . . . !"

Philbert
Wow I've never seen a corded saw with a clutch. That's cool. This big Worx is powerful. I can't imagine a string stopping it. As stated it cuts very well. A friend brought his 12 amp ? Maybe was Black & Decker here for me to sharpen his chain. The saw looked nice BUT the chain was a skip tooth and the drive gear was stripped. Lots of 100 $ down electric saws have a plastic drive. Years ago I acquired a tiny light pole saw. Oiler was primer bulb ( hate those) but the saw could be removed from the pole and used in one hand. I used it building my pole barn. STP mixed in bar oil dripped on the chain every so often. Remington black color. That saw was so handy for cutting things around the shop thicker than what a 7.25 circle saw could cross cut.
Remington made a similar saw but got stupid ( option based on pure hate Because I think they ruined the saw) but moved the back handle way back. A one handed little chainsaw is handy. See photo. The big Worx and the Tiny Remington. received_410704846467756.jpeg
 
My neighbor's cheap electric saw stopped when the nose sprocket was jammed with a small piece of kite string, that he accidentally picked up. My Makita electric has a slip clutch in addition to the electric switch. Some electric chainsaws also have electric chain brakes that stop the chain instantly; some coast for a second or so. We did some informal tests with a battery saw and a pair of retired chaps (lots of YouTube videos on this too).

I had my Delta table saw switch fail in the 'ON' position. Also a Porter Cable router. Neither of these were 'cheap' tools, but somehow, very fine sawdust worked its way into each switch and prevented the contacts from opening when the switch button / toggle was moved.

It was a little scary when I thought about it afterwards, but more confusing at the time. Neither one was a 'panic stop', but more like, "Man; that thing is taking a l-o-n-g time to coast down . . . . !"

Philbert
Sorry it's taken so long to get back. Man have I been busy.
So I DID CALL and reported the saw problem to a tech.
There's a term in electronics , an AND GATE. Simply put 1 and 2 both switches must be ON before electricity can flow.
Testing on my Worx 303.1 when the saw is operating properly without dissambey the brake switch appears to be NC and the trigger NO. So when trigger is pulled safety switch and trigger switch appears to be both closed and current flows through the motor.
If that's true, THEN WHY did the power CONTINUE to feed the Motor when the hand safety locked the chain binding the motor OVERLOADING it???
Even with the trigger switch Closed if it WAS STUCK (It seemed to be) the hand safety switch should have opened the circuit stopping electromotive force to the motor.
BUT that didn't appear to happen.
That means without a schematic I'm left to guess. I'm wondering about a solid state device failure. Think Solenoid. If the switches feed a solid state device which acts like a solenoid which channels the heavy load to the motor but the device it's self is opened (similar to the bias of a transistor) by the closing of a circuit through both the trigger AND the safety switch THEN BOTH switches could be working properly.
This device could be over heating and similar to Thermal Runaway in a transistor, keeping Electricity applied to the motor. The safety brake locks the chain opens the trigger opens BUT THIS (I'm guess it's there somewhere) device is failing to DISCONNECT the line from the brushes. That makes sense to me.
But I've got a bad case of Not going to fight this any longer. The easy and safe way out is to use an external off switch. A 15 amp rated switch will be ok because THE SAW will NOT be loaded when the switch is flipped off. IF the saw safety brake is LEFT ON and the motor under a load that loaded line WILL ARC. People get hurt unplugging cords when something is running. Just unplugging a toaster before it cuts off makes Sparks fly.
I see people Open the microwave to Stop it before the timer cuts off.
They burn out the door safety switches. I collected 3 old 1100 watt Microwaves out of the trash dump. These transformers are very good. Removed the secondary wiring and used insulated #10 to rewind them. Put primarys in a parallel so all would feed off 120 ac single phase and Series the secondary. Used the cooling fan from a microwave built a cabinet from the sheet metal added a switch for the rod holders a separate switch for cooling fan installed a inline (hot as long as machine plugged in) double recpicle. I plugged my grinder into that. My steel brush wheel into the welder. I can weld flip the rod holders off, leave the cooling fans going and plug anything that needs 120 vac like a light take a break and not worry that a kid will pick up a hot rod holder. It's the ONLY one in the world. Burns light rods well. Welds sheet metal and up to bed frame angle iron. Handles a 3/16 6013 well. I designed it 20 years ago and love it still.
 
My first experience with corded electric chainsaws was over 40 years ago, when a friend who was a doctor, and heated with wood was worried that his Sears gas saw was going to make his hands go numb. This was before a lot of the A/V improvements. So he bought a Sears electric chainsaw and was very happy.

My first chainsaw was also a Sears electric, made by Poulan. Pretty good saw. 12Amp? Later, I discovered really cheap electric saws, and more expensive ones. I now have Makita, Jonsered, Oregon, and other electric chainsaws (never tried the STIHL ones). Quality is a factor.

In your situation, I would be looking for an OEM replacement switch, as well as letting the company and CPSC know: you may not be the only one.

This is not a verified fact. The ANSI tests are based on gas saws, so electric saws cannot comply by default. But a number of electric saws do have cut-out features, or will overload a properly sized circuit breaker, etc. The lawyers require the statement on chaps, because, there are also high powered (220V, 15A) chainsaws, just like there are 90cc gas saws that will cut right through a pair of basic homeowner chaps. STIHL clearly recommends the use of chaps with their battery and electric saws in their literature and on their website.

Philbert
Not to hijack this thread,, but these are my experiences with some corded saws. I've had the MSE180 & MSE220 Stihls, as well as the Makita, Milwaukee (old all metal) and a small Echo rated at a ridiculous 3.25 horsepower. Also an old Sears Craftsman 12 Amp. The Stihls are the best with the Makita in a close third to to MSE180. The Makita is the only one with variable speed. The 220 Stihl and Milwaukee run regular 3/8 and have the torque to pull it. The Sears was weak and pretty much junk. The Echo is ok for an occasional homeowner, though new it had issues with the triggers connection. It sure AIN'T no 3.25 horses though. The Milwaukee had very low chain speed, but high torque. And the 220 cut like 70cc power with less chain speed. I'd love to see the new MSE250 vs the 220, which is heavier with Mag casting in its construction. I haven't run my Stihl E30 yet. At 50 lbs (powerhead only) give or take, I'm in no hurry to either, though it runs 1/2" chipper chain.You can see some electric saw comparison video's at my YouTube channel "sawfun1"
 
Not to hijack this thread,, but these are my experiences with some corded saws. I've had the MSE180 & MSE220 Stihls, as well as the Makita, Milwaukee (old all metal) and a small Echo rated at a ridiculous 3.25 horsepower. Also an old Sears Craftsman 12 Amp. The Stihls are the best with the Makita in a close third to to MSE180. The Makita is the only one with variable speed. The 220 Stihl and Milwaukee run regular 3/8 and have the torque to pull it. The Sears was weak and pretty much junk. The Echo is ok for an occasional homeowner, though new it had issues with the triggers connection. It sure AIN'T no 3.25 horses though. The Milwaukee had very low chain speed, but high torque. And the 220 cut like 70cc power with less chain speed. I'd love to see the new MSE250 vs the 220, which is heavier with Mag casting in its construction. I haven't run my Stihl E30 yet. At 50 lbs (powerhead only) give or take, I'm in no hurry to either, though it runs 1/2" chipper chain.You can see some electric saw comparison video's at my YouTube channel "sawfun1"
I truly appreciate your reply. As a forum all replies are welcome there is no way I would ever think someone were hijacking a thread
In fact the culture I grew up in was very open and IF anyone is guilty of hijacking anything I'm probably the worst offender. My lady friend is a white Euro and I'm always shocked how she's always so hypersensitive and even won't tell her own sister that she's allergic to her cat which ( I think is a very rude car) climbs all over her. She suffers because she won't say a word believing to do so would be rude. My culture is sweet, kind, but honest about our feelings. My lady friend kinda helps me understand euro people. They must be very considerate of others. Maybe to the point of being self sacrificing. Have a great day
 
Should do the tear down to see what's going on with the saw. Both switches should be in series so that if either one is open, the power should be shut off. I'm sure there is a safety agency in the USA similar to our CSA that has to issue an approval before these things can be brought to market, and in it's present state, it should not have passed. Aside from the serious safety issue, sticking switches can sometimes be made to cooperate by drilling SMALL holes in places that will allow lubricant to be sprayed in, if it's just a mechanical issue with the switch.
Yes here it has to be UL listed/approved otherwise more dangerous for you then a runaway chainsaw
 
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