Poulan wild thing won't start at all

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Jbroberson21

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I have a poulan wild thing I bought not running. It won't run at all, not even for a second or two even on starting fluid. So far I've checked the spark, it jumps a half inch gap on a spark checker, and replaced the spark plug. I've also checked the compression and it's 125. I've pulled the flywheel and the key is fine. It is getting fuel, I've tried adding fuel directly to the cylinder and still nothing. I've also tried starting fluid sprayed at the intake and also directly in the cylinder and nothing then either.

I saw a video last night about a cracked flywheel magnet causing a spark checker to show good spark but cause the saw to not run properly, I plan to check that tonight. Any other ideas what could be wrong?
 
I have a poulan wild thing I bought not running. It won't run at all, not even for a second or two even on starting fluid. So far I've checked the spark, it jumps a half inch gap on a spark checker, and replaced the spark plug. I've also checked the compression and it's 125. I've pulled the flywheel and the key is fine. It is getting fuel, I've tried adding fuel directly to the cylinder and still nothing. I've also tried starting fluid sprayed at the intake and also directly in the cylinder and nothing then either.

I saw a video last night about a cracked flywheel magnet causing a spark checker to show good spark but cause the saw to not run properly, I plan to check that tonight. Any other ideas what could be wrong?
Sheared flywheel key.
 
I don't trust those spark testers and I doubt the spark actually jumped a 1/2" gap. A reliable spark test is to gap a plug to 0.080" and see if it will jump that gap in air with the plug grounded to the cylinder. With that compression it should fire if the timing is right and you have verified the flywheel location. If you are sure the engine isn't just BADLY flooded, start with a dry plug, squirt some fuel in the plug hole, make sure the throttle is held open, pull it over fast and it SHOULD fire within a few pulls. Without a pic, can't tell which throttle interlock you have, on some there is a button in front of the OP lever that can be depressed to hold the throttle open and others, you have to pull the choke all the way out and then push it right back in to set the throttle open latch.
 
I replaced with a new plug but I can try the plug out of another saw I have that uses the same plug.
I've pulled the muffler and looked and I don't see anything that looks scored in the cylinder or on the piston.

Flywheel location and key have been verified (key is made in the flywheel on this one)
It's a 2375. There is a lever in front of the palm safety lever which I assume is what you're calling the op lever. I'll try draining the fuel and trying again with just a squirt in the cylinder.
Is there any good way of checking the crank seal?
 
You need compression, spark and correct air fuel mix- it is as simple as that.
One of those is not correct if the saw will not "pop".
Even if the muffler was full of cement, if all else is correct the saw should pop on prime- just wont continue to run.
Try clearing out the cylinder of unburnt fuel, dry plug- drop a teaspoon full of oil down the plug hole, swill it around a bit, fit the plug, prime the carb throat and see if it will fire.
 
I have a John Deere/Efco that did the same thing, and still does. Basically I have found that it seems to flood really easy so pouring fuel in the cylinder does not help. The only thing I have found that helps is letting it sit for a bit and then yanking the rope like I’m trying to break it. Once it starts it’s runs great and revs like a banshee. I have vac/pressure tested the crank seals, changed the plug,etc. Next I’m gonna rebuild the carb and see what happens
 
I have a poulan wild thing I bought not running. It won't run at all, not even for a second or two even on starting fluid. So far I've checked the spark, it jumps a half inch gap on a spark checker, and replaced the spark plug. I've also checked the compression and it's 125. I've pulled the flywheel and the key is fine. It is getting fuel, I've tried adding fuel directly to the cylinder and still nothing. I've also tried starting fluid sprayed at the intake and also directly in the cylinder and nothing then either.

I saw a video last night about a cracked flywheel magnet causing a spark checker to show good spark but cause the saw to not run properly, I plan to check that tonight. Any other ideas what could be wrong?
I just rebuilt 2 of these (don't ask me why!) Both carb diaphragms were beyond the "crinkly" stage and had long ago moved on to rigor mortis! Also the fuel plumbing was connected bass-ackwards.

I suspect that you are flooding the saw due to carb issues dumping fuel into the saw. Is the plug wet after pulling a while?
 
I tried draining the cylinder and giving it a little fuel straight down the hole, still no luck. The diaphragm on this saw seems to be ok from what I can tell. I haven't worked on saws much but I've worked on quite a few old outboards and the fuel pumps are pretty similar.

Ended up trying to explore the bad crank seal theory. Watched some YouTube videos and most were testing with the motor pulled out of the saw. When I got down to pulling the 4 bolts holding the motor in to the saw (which for this saw also holds the crank case onto the cylinder) the crank case and cylinder fell apart on their own. There was some type of rtv between them but it appeared that the two parts had been tightened together to much before the rtv had set up and it all mashed out because much of the joint appeared to be metal on metal. I assume I may have had a pretty substantial leak there. The crank shaft seals seem good though, honestly I feel like they may have been replaced before at some point.

My dad had picked the saw up for me. He said that the guy mentioned having had the saw in the shop and then it not running anymore after that (first I've heard of that part of the story). So it seems like whoever worked on it before me may have replaced the crank seals and rushed the reassembly.

I went ahead and pulled the piston out and took a good look and feel of it and the cylinder and I don't feel any scoring or anything there. Sliding the crank seals out a little on the crank shaft they seem to be nice and tight and there doesn't seem to be any deterioration in the rubber at all, which is why I feel they may have been replaced. From what I can tell this saw is a 2000 model and that just doesn't seem like 20 year old rubber (unlike the fuel cap o ring which is a leaky deteriorated mess)

All that being said I think for now I'm going to clean it all up, put it back together and make sure to give the gasket maker time to set up before final tightening and see if that solves the problem.
 
I tried draining the cylinder and giving it a little fuel straight down the hole, still no luck. The diaphragm on this saw seems to be ok from what I can tell. I haven't worked on saws much but I've worked on quite a few old outboards and the fuel pumps are pretty similar.

Ended up trying to explore the bad crank seal theory. Watched some YouTube videos and most were testing with the motor pulled out of the saw. When I got down to pulling the 4 bolts holding the motor in to the saw (which for this saw also holds the crank case onto the cylinder) the crank case and cylinder fell apart on their own. There was some type of rtv between them but it appeared that the two parts had been tightened together to much before the rtv had set up and it all mashed out because much of the joint appeared to be metal on metal. I assume I may have had a pretty substantial leak there. The crank shaft seals seem good though, honestly I feel like they may have been replaced before at some point.

My dad had picked the saw up for me. He said that the guy mentioned having had the saw in the shop and then it not running anymore after that (first I've heard of that part of the story). So it seems like whoever worked on it before me may have replaced the crank seals and rushed the reassembly.

I went ahead and pulled the piston out and took a good look and feel of it and the cylinder and I don't feel any scoring or anything there. Sliding the crank seals out a little on the crank shaft they seem to be nice and tight and there doesn't seem to be any deterioration in the rubber at all, which is why I feel they may have been replaced. From what I can tell this saw is a 2000 model and that just doesn't seem like 20 year old rubber (unlike the fuel cap o ring which is a leaky deteriorated mess)

All that being said I think for now I'm going to clean it all up, put it back together and make sure to give the gasket maker time to set up before final tightening and see if that solves the problem.
A lot of gasket makers are not suitable for use in contact with fuel. It was probably put back together with standard RTV
 
A lot of gasket makers are not suitable for use in contact with fuel. It was probably put back together with standard RTV
Yes - I’m still looking for my favourite, I’m not there yet. Either short work times meaning rushing or silicone which isn’t ideal with fuel. Dirko HT is my favourite, but it is a silicone based product - though Stihl recommends it.
 
It was black and did feel like it had been softened by contact with fuel so it likely wasn't the right product.
 
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