MS362 vs MS391

[PV Hiker]

You won’t like a 25” (even if it is an es light) hanging off either of those saws.

If you are not cutting hard wood's than it is fine. Extra bar length helps not bending over and reaching as much. Skip chain helps. I've bucked thousands of wind felled pine off trails using a Stihl ms362 25" bar w/RSF chain, did fine and got the job done.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I run a 24 on my 562 no problemo, it even handled a 28 decently in 24 inch hardwood. For occasional use I think a 362 would be fine, but for a two saw plan 45-55cc and 70-80cc sounds best. My dad managed 10 acres of forest and did minor clearing work using just a 445 with an 18 and a 372 with a 32 (running skip chain) for over a decade without any problems.

Just because a saw can, doesn’t mean it should, or that it is good long term for the engine. That’s a lot of stress you’re putting on it.
59 CC’s with 28” bar with 24” of it in hardwood is way beyond what it was designed for.

 

[Woodslasher]

Just because a saw can, doesn’t mean it should, or that it is good long term for the engine. That’s a lot of stress you’re putting on it.
59 CC’s with 28” bar with 24” of it in hardwood is way beyond what it was designed for.

The 28 is now on a 272, my brother bought it set up with a 28 from a dealer and kept it like that until he sold it to me. I agree it's not great, but if once every year you run into a 24 inch oak I don't think it'd hurt it. Plus, using skip chain helps.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

The 28 is now on a 272, my brother bought it set up with a 28 from a dealer and kept it like that until he sold it to me. I agree it's not great, but if once every year you run into a 24 inch oak I don't think it'd hurt it. Plus, using skip chain helps.

I’d just come from both sides with a shorter bar if I had no other saw honestly. It does depend on what is considered hard wood too. Hardwood is a term that seems to cover a whole array of species. USA hardwood is often softer than Australian softwoods. I was cutting a wood that is the same hardness as white oak, it felt like butter. The softest wood that I’m use to cutting is the same hardness as Hickory.

 

[thomasinvancouver]

Oh Lord....here we go.....you need a 880 with .404 on a 16” bar.

 

[heavymachinery2121]

A lot of the wood at my property is hickory or junk wood that I could cut through fairly easily. So far I’ve had no problems with my CS2152 and it’s only 50cc.

 

[heavymachinery2121]

Oh Lord....here we go.....you need a 880 with .404 on a 16” bar.

Hahahahaha overkill ehhhh

 

[thomasinvancouver]

Hahahahaha overkill ehhhh

It’s the usual east coast west coast nonsense. 40cc with a 32” or 120cc with a 16”.

 

[Woodslasher]

I’d just come from both sides with a shorter bar if I had no other saw honestly. It does depend on what is considered hard wood too. Hardwood is a term that seems to cover a whole array of species. USA hardwood is often softer than Australian softwoods. I was cutting a wood that is the same hardness as white oak, it felt like butter. The softest wood that I’m use to cutting is the same hardness as Hickory.

Yeah, pine is a heck of a lot softer than oak, and cedar feels like like cutting Styrofoam.

 

[sb47]

It sounds like many of you think you should cut wood like your in some kind of sawing contest where speed and power is the way to go. I have and often do cut 48" oak with a MS 290 and a 20'' bar. There is nothing wrong with letting a saw cut at a slower speed and not try to bear down so hard that you stall the motor. I like to just let the weight of the saw set the pace how fast it cuts. If your chain is sharp you shouldn't have to bear down very hard at all. The saw should just glide through the wood without having to force anything.

 

[Brushwacker]

I believe a Stihl 044 or ms440 would be ideal for you. To me they feel lighter and handle easier then other 70cc saws of their era. Don't think u can find em new any more though. Dolmar-Makita 64cc and Husqvarna 365"s cut reasonably strong with 24inch bars and aren't very expensive. Been using those saws and not dissappointed in any of them. I used a newish 361 before which i expect the 362 is similar. I expect with 24inch it would struggle in the hardest woods. I buried the 24inch bar on my 65cc 365 Husqvarna in a dead solid white oak with no issue was no struggle for the saw. Never cut with a ms 391 so can't say how it compares.

 

[Harmon]

If you can find a nice ms 361 that would be better than either option (362 v 391). Or get an ms 400 and tell us all how awesome that is or is not? I would definitely pick a 362 over a 391 any day esp if i was going to cut all day. Everything else equal and stock saws, if you are moving through the woods and brush, cutting trail or something the 362 is more nimble and the 391 feels like a pig. If you are cutting firewood it probably dont matter.

25" bar is a stretch in the midwest or in the other places with hard trees. The reach is nice and I never noticed nose heavy.

Also why dont these discussions start with what kind of wood OP is going to cut!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

It sounds like many of you think you should cut wood like your in some kind of sawing contest where speed and power is the way to go. I have and often do cut 48" oak with a MS 290 and a 20'' bar.

How can a 20” bar cut 48” oak?!

 

[Harmon]

This is where you ask is one felling the Oak, or turning it into firewood

 

[heavymachinery2121]

This is where you ask is one felling the Oak, or turning it into firewood

I have a patch of ground that is solid trees that I need to clear for our house we will be building. So at the moment it’s 50/50. Once that’s all done in a year or two, it will be maintaining our forest for CAUV and firewood.

 

[holeycow]

Although there's lots of times you want that full-bar power when felling.

you simply don't get 25" of rip'n snort'n power out of a modern 60cc high-strung saw. Hit some knots, frozen cock-stiff wood, chain a hair dull, anything not optimum and a 60 on a 24 will suffer markedly compared to the extra hp in a 70cc.

70cc is generally the old standby compromise for nearly any condition. unfortunately it costs more bux.

 

[holeycow]

How big are the trees and what species?

ps, forget the 391...it's simply not in the same league as the 362 as far as a tool goes.

 

[heavymachinery2121]

How big are the trees and what species?

ps, forget the 391...it's simply not in the same league as the 362 as far as a tool goes.

Probably 50/50 split of 12-16” and 20-24”.
Lots of hickory, some oak, maple, ash, and a bunch of other junky type wood. Can’t remember the names off hand.

 

[holeycow]

You'd have way more fun with a 70cc saw.

the 60 will work VERY hard when bucking the big stuff, which would be effortless with a bigger powerhead. These strato saws run hot enough as it is, never mind repeatedly working them to their limits of construction.

you've got a nice 50cc. While a 60cc has considerably more power, the 70cc is the logical pair to the 50.

Personally, I'd be keeping my eye out for a cherry of a used, unmolested 70-80cc saw pre- moronic or autoboom. Just me.

 

[PV Hiker]

You'd have way more fun with a 70cc saw.

the 60 will work VERY hard when bucking the big stuff, which would be effortless with a bigger powerhead. These strato saws run hot enough as it is, never mind repeatedly working them to their limits of construction.

you've got a nice 50cc. While a 60cc has considerably more power, the 70cc is the logical pair to the 50.

Personally, I'd be keeping my eye out for a cherry of a used, unmolested 70-80cc saw pre- moronic or autoboom. Just me.

To repeat you do have a 50cc saw where as a 60cc is close. You are not hiking miles with it consider a nice 70-80cc saw. You can use both on the property. 50cc to limb and light stuff, bigger saw to fell and buck up larger rounds.

I used a 362 for years then joined this site and all heck broke out with CAD. Decided on a 2 saw plan. I bought 2 Stihl 261C-M, sold one of them. Picked up a 361 to rebuild while waiting for a Stihl 500i. Sold the 362 to a fellow sawyer that needed a saw. So now have 3 saws and trying to rationalize keeping the 60cc while the 50cc and 80cc would be enough.

If you can swing it with finances consider a 70-80 cc saw to go with your 50cc. I believe it will put a smile on your face using more cc.