Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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While an overnighted oil filter is a PITA, a filter that leaks or falls off is far worse from a shops perspective. We tell our techs to make sure to tighten one full after gasket contact. Looks like you got it off without having to resort to pounding a screwdriver through it to turn it. That's a win!
For me, it seems like it's a little easier to remove filters is to LOOSEN them while the engine is still hot. Then remove once cooled down.
 
For me, it seems like it's a little easier to remove filters is to LOOSEN them while the engine is still hot. Then remove once cooled down.
That's a good tip. 90% of our oil changes are done on hot engines. Might be one reason why we don't have more trouble with tight filters. There's usually one or two filters a year(out of 800+ maintenance services) that give trouble.
 
Just get a decent filter wrench. I actually have several, between the metal band style, strap style, and self tightening finger style. The filter come right off. Now I don't make mine bug tight either so normally they come off by hand. But I have had a few that want to fight. Channel locks make a mess of it from not applying pressure evenly around the filter.
 
Just get a decent filter wrench. I actually have several, between the metal band style, strap style, and self tightening finger style. The filter come right off. Now I don't make mine bug tight either so normally they come off by hand. But I have had a few that want to fight. Channel locks make a mess of it from not applying pressure evenly around the filter.
Sometime I've found using those 18" handled channel locks are the only way to get a filter off.
 
We're working with the car lifted so I know that it adds complication to accessing oil filters when unable to do so. I would say about 75% of the filters come off with a band style wrench. We've found the Snap-on band wrenches work the best. We also have filter cup sockets, strap wrenches, the finger style and the universal channel locks.

Sometimes I do oil changes on the ground at home just to get back to gravel garage wrenching. Reminds me how nice it is to work in a proper shop.

I wish engineers would consider serviceability when designing powertrain packages. In my dreams I imagine every vehicle having the drain plug and oil filter in close proximity to each other and easy to access. I know there are packaging/ease of oil system design cost constraints but a guy can dream.
 
I was ready to break out a torch and grinder yesterday while trying to change the oil on my truck. The shop that changed it in the winter must have torqued the filter to 300ftlbs!
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I forget Jeff. F150? First oil change on my 150 i couldn't break the damn thing loose. Tried 4 different filter wrenches. Ended up going to my garage and had him break it loose. He hand tightened it so I could finish the oil change next morning. He loaned me his cap wrench and it Stihl took all I could do to get it off. Haven't done the oil change myself in 80K miles. Hope the new 250 will be easier.
 
I do have a couple filter band wrenches. I should get the socket one. I used the band wrench but all it did was collapse the filter. F150 ecobeast, filter is conveniently located on the front of the motor where you can feel it but not see it from underneath after removing some underbelly stuff. Or from the top where a guy with long arms can reach it if he stands on a stool, lays over the front so he can barely breathe, and doesn't mind gouging his arms on the various stuff in the way! Owned this truck since new, 2013, and never had a problem twisting a filter off by hand. I tighten them by hand as firm as I can get it and they normally come off easily enough. Last winter we had my truck and my wife's car in getting rust sprayed so we had the shop do the oil change as well. I guess they wanted to make sure it was on there. To be fair to them, it's easier to apply power by hand when standing under a vehicle on a hoist than it is for me laying on the garage floor.

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While an overtighteted oil filter is a PITA, a filter that leaks or falls off is far worse from a shops perspective. We tell our techs to make sure to tighten one full after gasket contact. Looks like you got it off without having to resort to pounding a screwdriver through it to turn it. That's a win!
Good to know. Now I wont ever let you or any of your techs change my oil.

When installing the oil filter, you should slowly screw it in with your hand. Make sure the filter turns in cleanly to avoid damaging the filter. When the filter has been completely screwed in, give it one quarter turn. This allows the filter to fit securely without being too tight. Oil filters do not need to be too tight. If you can safely unscrew the filter with your hand, requiring only minimal resistance from the tightened position, then your filter has the correct tightness.
 
Good to know. Now I wont ever let you or any of your techs change my oil.

When installing the oil filter, you should slowly screw it in with your hand. Make sure the filter turns in cleanly to avoid damaging the filter. When the filter has been completely screwed in, give it one quarter turn. This allows the filter to fit securely without being too tight. Oil filters do not need to be too tight. If you can safely unscrew the filter with your hand, requiring only minimal resistance from the tightened position, then your filter has the correct tightness.
I'm not going to get into an argument with you about this. If that works best for you than keep doing it.
At our shop we follow factory procedures. The minimum I have seen from filter manufacturers or the OEMs is 3/4 turn after gasket contact. If I recall correctly a Porsche GT3 requires 1 1/2 turns after gasket contact. That's essentially a street legal race car with a very expensive engine. I definitely don't want to have a filter fall off or leak on a $150k car.
Most standard V6 engine replacement jobs land in the $4-5k range so we go by manufacturer specs. Just not worth it to risk it from a business standpoint.
Have a great night
 
I was ready to break out a torch and grinder yesterday while trying to change the oil on my truck. The shop that changed it in the winter must have torqued the filter to 300ftlbs!
77a7377d314912a2d898d5784ede9949.jpg


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Man, that stinks, at least you got it off.
My first issue today was trying to remove the mower attachment/mechanisms from the other small tractor to put on the new one.
The pin that holds the arm on the front was jammed into the arm :cry:. I messed with it for quite a while with visegrips beating it in and then twisting it out with the VG's(couldn't pound it out as it was too close to the engine), after about 20 times and it not loosening up I went inside and took a break, and changed shirts as I was drenched. When I came back out my mind must have been refreshed because I came up with an idea that worked well and removed it in about 2 min.
That was the first issue :oops:, then the torch, hydraulic press(aka wood splitter), and the grinder came out:yes:.
Chipper, did you say you needed a little press? I know a guy. I had to get a neighbor to lift it off my trailer.
What a beast, nice score.
That would have been helpful today. The pivot pin that holds the whole assembly up under the tractor was bent so much that I couldn't get the bushings in place without forcing them :confused:. So I pulled it back out after getting it about 90% installed on the new tractor, three pieces go together all at once, which is a pain in the butt. Then warmed up the hot wrench and the hydraulic press and got it straightened out and ground the spot the wedge damaged clean, success :clap:.
Although I managed to save it from the trash can this time, if it ever gets damaged like that again I'm sure it will need to be tossed. Hopefully I'll never do what the previous owner did to get a 1/4" bend in a 1"x14" long rod :surprised3:, must have been a pretty hard hit.
 

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