New 520 Oregon owner looking for advice, guidance

[moresnow]

Quite simply I have never owned and rarely operated a electric bench grinder. After wearing out a few sets of hand files over the years (with both good performance's and poor) I finally decided to get it over with and bought the 520. Amazon delivered yesterday.
I am thinking about setting this thing up to match a brand new chain (by eyeballing the fit/match/angles?). I understand the factory angles are easily researched also.
My beater saw that I keep using is (shhhh). A Poulan 5020. I know it's a POS but it's been a real interesting experiment in cheap saw R.O.I.!
I am a personnel firewood user only, feeding a BK freestander that heats my home entirely with ease all winter long. I suppose I use 3+ cord a year and am happily 3+ years ahead of the game of seasoning.
My issue is that my tree service friends like to load me up on occasion and I am battling my way through a substantial stockpile this summer to finally catch up! Plenty of dirty logs unfortunately.
I do have a Stihl 441 that could/will become my go to saw. Roughly the same weight of the P.P. Mucho better quality/performance etc. I get it.

Anyway any advice will be happily taken on grinder setup and operation. Thanks all.

 

[Fatherwheels]

Lots of video out there, here is one,

 

[Woodslasher]

@Philbert

 

[moresnow]

I've been watching the vids for sure. Lots out there for guidance. Looking forward to getting this set up. Guessing I'll get a handle on it!

 

[Philbert]

Anyway any advice will be happily taken on grinder setup and operation. Thanks all.

The Oregon 520 is a good grinder, and importantly, comes with good quality wheels: the part that does the cutting / grinding.

I always encourage guys new to grinding to take a couple of scrap chains and play / experiment with the grinder:
- set up the 'recommended' angles and see what you get;
- use a chain that you like (not necessarily a new chain), place it in the grinder with the power 'OFF", and try to copy those angles / settings. They try to grind them.
- see what small changes in each grinder adjustment / setting makes on the cutters.
- try to intentionally overheat /'burn' a cutter; then work backwards to avoid doing that.
- offer to grind some chains free for your 'friends', and learn stuff, before grinding your good chains.

A couple of key things to remember:
1. Take lots of small taps, rather than maintaining sustained contact with the wheel. If you know Morse Code, use all 'dots' and no 'dashes'.
2. Check each cutter after you grind it (good lighting helps) to make sure it looks like what you want; adjust as needed.
3. Dress the grinding wheel frequently to constantly expose fresh abrasive: I do this once per loop, and anytime it feels like it needs it.

Lots of stuff in this thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
Philbert

 

[moresnow]

Just a little update. I have the 520 up and running. After giving three 3/8 chains a ammonia soak overnight, I rinsed, dried, and put them through the grinder. The original Oregon chain packaging indicated 55* and 30*. I had been hand sharpening these three chains for a long time. My angles no longer matched factory spec. Surprise, surprise. Anywho I gently brought everything back into condition taking a couple passes on each chain. I gotta say the cutters look really nice. I mounted a chain on the old P.P. 5020 for a test. No start

 

[Philbert]

My angles no longer matched factory spec

Different angles than factory spec is not a problem, if it’s done intentionally. One of the advantages of sharpening your own chain, is that you can choose the angles that work best for you.

One of the advantages of using a grinder, like the one that you have, is getting those angles consistently. Another, is ‘evening out’ randomly filed chain loops.

Philbert

 

[moresnow]

Different angles than factory spec is not a problem, if it’s done intentionally. One of the advantages of sharpening your own chain, is that you can choose the angles that work best for you.

One of the advantages of using a grinder, like the one that you have, is getting those angles consistently. Another, is ‘evening out’ randomly filed chain loops.

Philbert

Evening out my randomly filed chains is the situation
I finished up my 3/8 chains and swapped in the small wheel to do my Stihl 009 chains. Even being extremely gentle and patient with very light taps these wheels seem to need a lot of dressing to maintain shape. My results appear really nice. I need to get out and give them a try.

I question the "down angle" adjustment? Even following the manual I don't seem to be getting any tilt? Not sure it makes any difference in the two chain models I am working with as my currect grinder settings of 30* and 55* seem to match nicely?

 

[Philbert]

I question the "down angle" adjustment? Even following the manual I don't seem to be getting any tilt?

This is the image from the 520 manual, for setting the 10° down angle' for Right hand cutters. The instructions also include several compensating adjustments to the other angle settings, in order to be precise.

This is the image from the 511A manual for the same thing: I think that it is a lot clearer. The setting does work: you do get the 'down angle'. I just decided that the extra steps involved were not worth it for ME, and my cutting. The performance differences were not jumping out at me. Your mileage may vary.

As I have posted elsewhere, I typically 'grind at home and file in the field', as well as grind chains for others who also file in the field. But some of the filing guides used are only supposed to be used with a 0° down angle, so that could be a problem for some people. Also, going back and forth between the two requires removing quite a bit of metal, which is time consuming, and a waste of chain life.

So, try it if you are interested, and pick what works for you.

Philbert

 

[moresnow]

Yepper thats right out of my manual! Mine simply doesnt rotate as descibed? Wierd. I've sharpened everything without concern. A couple of my cronies are heading my direction with sharpening needs. Imagine that!
I'll provide some feedback on how well things work.

 

[Matt Schmitt]

Loosen the nut up a bunch that lets you change your angle and it will roll to the 10. Then tighten the screw back up. Right hand cutters you push away from you.

 

[DGHudson]

Quite simply I have never owned and rarely operated a electric bench grinder. After wearing out a few sets of hand files over the years (with both good performance's and poor) I finally decided to get it over with and bought the 520. Amazon delivered yesterday.
I am thinking about setting this thing up to match a brand new chain (by eyeballing the fit/match/angles?). I understand the factory angles are easily researched also.
My beater saw that I keep using is (shhhh). A Poulan 5020. I know it's a POS but it's been a real interesting experiment in cheap saw R.O.I.!
I am a personnel firewood user only, feeding a BK freestander that heats my home entirely with ease all winter long. I suppose I use 3+ cord a year and am happily 3+ years ahead of the game of seasoning.
My issue is that my tree service friends like to load me up on occasion and I am battling my way through a substantial stockpile this summer to finally catch up! Plenty of dirty logs unfortunately.
I do have a Stihl 441 that could/will become my go to saw. Roughly the same weight of the P.P. Mucho better quality/performance etc. I get it.

Anyway any advice will be happily taken on grinder setup and operation. Thanks all.

I have a n older 512A, I did what you described by following the angle, and it has been working well for me.
looks like a nice machine!