McCulloch Chain Saws

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Kevin, check the groove and the crush rib on the PM55 tank halves carefully, you may find something that is preventing the tank gasket from sealing properly. I have used cork gaskets, with and without sealer, square o-ring material, and the Viton gaskets from Sawzilla and I definitely prefer the Viton. They will swell when they are soaked with fuel but as M S pointed out, that creates a tighter seal. You cannot reassemble one if it is swollen but give it a day or two and they will return to normal size.

Mark
 
Busy week, hard to catch up here. No 7-10 action shots yet as I am waiting on my daughter to send them to me but the oak stem is now in my firewood pile. It was a bit of a challenge to get the aerial lift positioned in her back yard so we could get the birch tree out without damaging their new metal clad roof.

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My son-in-law wanted to keep the stub end of the birch that had sprouted a couple of branches, they now have a palmbirch in their back yard.

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The oak stem before and after...we removed the shed late last year.

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After the 7-10...

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Mark
I like the "palm birch"! Thats a popular pruning tactic in SC.
Man I loathe our pull behind manlift, it can be a real PITA to set up on uneven ground . Alot of times I'll set one or two pulleys and 300 feet of 3/4" rope to avoid messing with the manlift.
Can't wait for the 7-10 Action.
 
Kevin, check the groove and the crush rib on the PM55 tank halves carefully, you may find something that is preventing the tank gasket from sealing properly. I have used cork gaskets, with and without sealer, square o-ring material, and the Viton gaskets from Sawzilla and I definitely prefer the Viton. They will swell when they are soaked with fuel but as M S pointed out, that creates a tighter seal. You cannot reassemble one if it is swollen but give it a day or two and they will return to normal size.

Mark
I ended up going back with a stock style cork gasket and sealer. It is holding good now for 2 days. I also had a carb problem, after running the saw it was pushing fuel past the needle and seat and filling the air box. The carb pressure tested good at 10psi which I normally find to be good. I ended up stretching the spring a bit and lowering the metering lever slightly and got it holding 15psi now. It seems fine after a couple of heat cycles but I am going to give it a few tries over the next couple days before I send it back to my customer.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
Can anyone show me how a 1-50 gets oil from the front oil tank to the pump? I have a 1-50 oil tank front cover but no main fuel tank. I have several late model front tank saw tanks but want to relocate the oil tank to the front.
 
The 1-40/1-50 and D-30/D-36 saws were originally supplied with the "Lubri-Mac" automatic oiler system that redirected "crankcase condensate and residue" to the bar pad. McCulloch recommended running a 10:1 mix on those saws to insure adequate bar and chain lubrication. There was no oil tank on top on the 1-40/1-50 saws to serve as a reservoir for the oiler. A later conversion provided an extended/divided fuel tank with the manual pump built into the front of the oil tank cover. As you can see below, there is a boss on the oil tank cover for the manual oil pump to install. I seem to recall some service bulletin regarding drilling a passage so the oil could pass from the tank to the bar pad, maybe I can find it with a little searching.

McCulloch 1-50 1.JPG

Mark
 
Very prompt! Thanks Mark. I had seen the hole in the front cover and knew they must have drilled the tank, but not with this detail. I would like to setup an automatic oiler feeding from the front oil tank if I can.
 
Rather than pull your carb,try turning the lop screw out 1/4 - 1/2 turn & see if that works first.You might just have a gummed up needle,or some microscopic dirt on the needle .
I have the saw running now. Not perfect but it’s a good starting point. Idles well and holds a WOT. Stutters a bit when the throttle is hit hard though. Possibly a bit more fine tuning on the carburetor and points cleaning may help out a lot.
Decided to overhaul the carburetor completely. Not sure it needed it got all new diaphragms, gaskets needles and a new atomizer screen over the check valve. I hate those little retainer rings. Especially once they become magnetized! New fuel line and filter too. I think the fuel system is a check mark. Now need to look at the ignition I suppose
 
The oak stem was around 24" diameter, I only have a 20" bar on the 7-10.

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I had the entire fleet along for this project, first is my "new" F150 wood hauler filled with the split oak logs.

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Older son Jeff is using my Ranger most of the time, he hauled the splitter home for us.

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The other F150 with my brother-in-law's dump trailer, I hauled this load to Hosky's.

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Mark
 
I have the saw running now. Not perfect but it’s a good starting point. Idles well and holds a WOT. Stutters a bit when the throttle is hit hard though. Possibly a bit more fine tuning on the carburetor and points cleaning may help out a lot.
Decided to overhaul the carburetor completely. Not sure it needed it got all new diaphragms, gaskets needles and a new atomizer screen over the check valve. I hate those little retainer rings. Especially once they become magnetized! New fuel line and filter too. I think the fuel system is a check mark. Now need to look at the ignition I suppose
Sounds like it's lean on the low end if it stutters when you hit the throttle.
 
Woodslasher,you beat me to the punch on that one.Ya can't always go by the standard of "one turn out" for every saw.I've said this on another forum - every carb has it's own "personality",what's good for one saw may not necessarily be good for another saw.When it comes to fine tuning,the width of the blade of a screwdriver is about what ya want to use for an adjustment.
 
I had someone call me last week, said he'd driven through town and had seen my sign and wanted to know if I worked on McCulloch saws. Tonight he drove 100 miles (one way) to drop off a 10-10 Automatic to get a good going over. Interesting saw, check out the serial number and features.

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He said as far as he knew. it was all original.

Mark
 
I've always liked the D44 saw. It seems to be pretty compact for the time period. I think I recently realized that the Super 44 is a bored and stroked version of the same saw with a significant gain of 8cc's. Then the next year the Super 44a comes out with an even longer stroke and a gain of another 7cc's. I'm still learning so let me know if I'm wrong here, but it seems that the Super 44a is just a highly modified D44 in essentially the same "compact" configuration. The guys in R&D at Mcculloch must have been having a blast back then. I am suddenly highly interested in the Super 44a. What do you guys know about it?
 
I've always liked the D44 saw. It seems to be pretty compact for the time period. I think I recently realized that the Super 44 is a bored and stroked version of the same saw with a significant gain of 8cc's. Then the next year the Super 44a comes out with an even longer stroke and a gain of another 7cc's. I'm still learning so let me know if I'm wrong here, but it seems that the Super 44a is just a highly modified D44 in essentially the same "compact" configuration. The guys in R&D at Mcculloch must have been having a blast back then. I am suddenly highly interested in the Super 44a. What do you guys know about it?
I believe that either the 1-70 or the 1-71 was almost identical to the Super 44A & was a gear drive (?) I'd love to get a Super 44A,but it seems those saws are a hot item.I've got a bid in on one up for sale on Feebay right now,but I expect my bid to be surpassed.
 

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