Chain for Australian hardwood

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I doubt he’d be happy with a 25” .404, on 500i but this chap is running a 20” bar in iron bark and doesn’t seem to be causing it any issues - it’s ripping through easily, I guess it would be 3/8 pitch


No issues I see a few lol
The operator is pretty wild think he was going flat out showing how good his saw cuts, did ya see his hand get blown off the handlebar when the saw had a fast sudden push back needs to wrap his thumb under the handlebar a bit more.
Chain is too aggressive and or rakers too low saw was bogging bad slipping the clutch with the combination of operator going a bit to wild and whatever is going on with the chain gearing could be a factor in that as well.
Going off that vid it's not inspiring that it could pull .404 25inch bar buried long term reliably.
But I'd dismiss that vid its not a very good vid to gauge the performance of the saw.
 
No issues I see a few lol
The operator is pretty wild think he was going flat out showing how good his saw cuts, did ya see his hand get blown off the handlebar when the saw had a fast sudden push back needs to wrap his thumb under the handlebar a bit more.
Chain is too aggressive and or rakers too low saw was bogging bad slipping the clutch with the combination of operator going a bit to wild and whatever is going on with the chain gearing could be a factor in that as well.
Going off that vid it's not inspiring that it could pull .404 25inch bar buried long term reliably.
But I'd dismiss that vid its not a very good vid to gauge the performance of the saw.
I absolutely agree with you - I avoided commenting on the operator, his over confidence / showing off for the camera only made him look foolish. Yes I did catch that multiple kickbacks and the engagement of chain brake, I don’t know why people don’t wrap their thumb around the handle bar..

The no issue comment was of the saw not seeming to struggle in iron bark (other than when due to operator error).

I’ve spoken to a number of people who have used them here and they all seem to say they have notable torque.
 
@rogue60 your old man may like the 661 with the standard carb, loads of other countries already sell them them as the standard carb option, no n-tronic. Though I have no idea about here in Australia. I’ll do some digging tomorrow if you like, I need to get some parts from the shop. Watch this space.
 
I thought this was supposed to be about the best chain to use for hardwoods. The last video seems to be some kind of joke as OP is cutting a very small tree like it is a challenge. We have trees from the desert with limbs several feet in diameter. What I can tell you in cutting sandy wood is sharpen often and have plenty of chain. I am sure there are some combinations of carbide teeth chains that seem to work. With semi green wood that is clean pretty much any thing goes even chisel bit chain. I would almost forget that I am cutting hardwood until it is dry then add sand and then all progress seems to stop. I have found that with dry dirty wood there is an improvement with saws that deliver slower chain speeds. Slower chain speeds deliver more progress with chains needing less sharpening than faster speeds. 3/8'' or 404 in semi chisel seems to be the most practical as it is very available inexpensive and cuts pretty well in all conditions. Thanks
 
Ted, I normally agree with most of what you say, but ad far as chain speed keeping the cutter sharper longer is bs. Your only gonna get so many cuts per tooth before its dull, it doesn't matter if your cutting fast or slow. This same principal applies to any cutting tool. You get x amount of work done before needing sharpened. Those slow saws are still slow, and don't stay sharp any longer then the same chain in the same log spinning faster. Work done will be about equal.
 
Ted, I normally agree with most of what you say, but ad far as chain speed keeping the cutter sharper longer is bs. Your only gonna get so many cuts per tooth before its dull, it doesn't matter if your cutting fast or slow. This same principal applies to any cutting tool. You get x amount of work done before needing sharpened. Those slow saws are still slow, and don't stay sharp any longer then the same chain in the same log spinning faster. Work done will be about equal.
Sean of course you do not have to agree with me. Many here wish to debate issues. I have had similar saws side by side and was amazed at the difference one was to another. Try your self and see what you find then let us know. I am sure you are correct Thanks
 
It would make sense that (given the same amount of power) a saw with a lower chain speed & therefore more torque could have the chain setup to take more material with every pass of a cutter. The total amount of wood being removed would be the same, but with less passes of the cutters to do so the chain should remain sharper longer
 
@rogue60 your old man may like the 661 with the standard carb, loads of other countries already sell them them as the standard carb option, no n-tronic. Though I have no idea about here in Australia. I’ll do some digging tomorrow if you like, I need to get some parts from the shop. Watch this space.
Rogues old man cut with an 090 25" hardnose b/c in shorts with flipflops & no hearing protection. Not sure he'd like anything about a 661... standard carb or not.
 
It would make sense that (given the same amount of power) a saw with a lower chain speed & therefore more torque could have the chain setup to take more material with every pass of a cutter. The total amount of wood being removed would be the same, but with less passes of the cutters to do so the chain should remain sharper longer.
By that same thought process a tooth that takes a smaller bite doesn't have to work as hard to take said bite and Will stay sharp longer. They both have to do the same job, remove the same amount of wood, doesn't matter if you have the power to dig deep and cut many layers at once or take smaller faster bites. The grind is what matters, your still physically cutting the same amount of wood.
 
Rogues old man cut with an 090 25" hardnose b/c in shorts with flipflops & no hearing protection. Not sure he'd like anything about a 661... standard carb or not.
He has never owned flipflops lol He's only worn steel capped boots every day of his life. In the early days he did not wear hearing protection running 090's and he is paying for it now deaf as a rock lol
As for the 661 he says they are OK for a little saw power wise when running good and no issues pulling .404 20/25 inch bars in the hardwoods he cuts, but **** in consistent reliable running I told him according to the internet's his need updating to I think version 3 coils and solenoids or some ****.
He's not interested just wants a saw like the old day's you just put fuel oil in and run none of this you have to be internet's savvy just to work out what's wrong with ya saw.

On his 090's he run 30inch hardnose bars I still have his last 090 he bought I cleaned it up restored it bout 10 years ago.
I remember he freehand ripped out (not chainsaw mill) 900 railway sleepers with it early mid 80's that's how he got into sleeper cutting and eventually owning a sawmill cutting timber for the railways.

I still have that 066 in the pic but its clapped warn out now.
20170224_014022.jpgthumbnail_Log semi.jpg5 (3).JPG2 (18).jpg
 
When it got 90 F or more I wore my hikers and cut offs. I even wore them ay my timber sale for about ten years. Then I started making every excuse possible not to wear long pants. Then I found my self wearing shorts even when it was 40 F. Then one day I slipped and landed on my shoulder. Very painful thought I dislocated it. I latter discovered just a pinched nerve. So now realized I need to be more careful. I started thinking how far it would be to get medical attention and especially if I was injured. It would take about three hours to get to a paved road. Bought full coverage pants and some extra protection. Thanks
 
I might get this old beast up and running and see if it suits him.
It just needs an outer dog I will just cut one out with a plasma cutter. It still has a few years in it not warn out yet got if off my uncle he used it cutting a bit of firewood.
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Do they run the bosh ignition or sem?
As I’m sure you know, they are unreliable, if you’d like a Phillips capacitor for the foggysale fix if it is a bosh ignition, let me know I’ll send one your way.
 
I might get this old beast up and running and see if it suits him.
It just needs an outer dog I will just cut one out with a plasma cutter. It still has a few years in it not warn out yet got if off my uncle he used it cutting a bit of firewood.
View attachment 933363

Is that the limited edition Halloween model?
 
They look like that if ya sit em on a shelf and don't polish em for a few years probably has mud wasp nests in the muffler as well lol

Mate of mine was working over there in the mines, bought a motor for a boat we were building, crated it up and sent it over. It arrived, I popped the lid of the crate, looked inside, put the lid back down and went to the hardware store to buy a bug bomb.
Forking thing must have had a spider nest in it somewhere, thousands of the wee feckers crawling about, Don't need the types of 8 legged critters you lot have over here. :laugh:
 
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