Stihl 010av runs for 5 seconds ,stalls.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Had a Stihl... 024? maybe? years ago, that I took in to have a professional once-over... because while I could keep it running, I'm not a professional... and I figured my FIL's recommendation would be good.

It did the "start and run five seconds then quit thing", right after getting it home (from the repair guy). Long drive to take it back, so I took it apart - turns out he'd somehow, without noticing (and I'm not sure how you do this) caught part of the fuel line under the carburetor, and cranked it down. It shut off the fuel just enough to let a little bit seep through when it sat - but not enough to keep it running.

Miraculously, removing and reseating the carb... fixed it.
 
I did try to extract the valve,but was loathe to punch it to hard fearing I might damage the casing.Anyway I do have another saw with the same configuration and the same trouble.I rebuilt the carb and fitted it to the010AV, same trouble ,fires but won't idle.Itied the throttle wide open and she fired and ran first time but of course over revved.Flicked the throttle off and she died.I have adjusted the carb every possible way, but the results are the same,fires once then nothing ,clean plug ,express excess fuel ,pull her over fires once.
Need clarification. Are you saying that you rebuilt the carb that the discussion is about and tried it on a different saw and the other saw still had the same problem? Did the other saw have the same carb and was showing the same problem? Two saws with the same carbs and the same problem? When you talk about a "cover" over the check valve, would you be referring to a welch plug that covers the hole containing the check valve or do you actually see the brass end of the check valve? Those WT carbs come with a variety of main jet check valves.
 
Have you pressure tested the carb? If you are SURE that the saw stops because it's flooded, could be inlet valve not seating, control lever set too high, gasket on wrong side of diaphragm, new diaphragm has taller bump that operates the control lever. Not that many things that can cause this kind of flooding, some basic testing can spare a lot of trial and error.
 
Need clarification. Are you saying that you rebuilt the carb that the discussion is about and tried it on a different saw and the other saw still had the same problem? Did the other saw have the same carb and was showing the same problem? Two saws with the same carbs and the same problem? When you talk about a "cover" over the check valve, would you be referring to a welch plug that covers the hole containing the check valve or do you actually see the brass end of the check valve? Those WT carbs come with a variety of main jet check valves.
No same saw 010AV different carb but exactly the same, WT29.There is no welch cover on the check valve[my mistake] Please note previous photographs.I am to scared to strike it to hard in case I damage the body.
 
Have you pressure tested the carb? If you are SURE that the saw stops because it's flooded, could be inlet valve not seating, control lever set too high, gasket on wrong side of diaphragm, new diaphragm has taller bump that operates the control lever. Not that many things that can cause this kind of flooding, some basic testing can spare a lot of trial and error.
I have pressure tested the carb, it does not leak.I,m not sure about the flooding,all I know is it stops and won't start, but if I clean the plug and pull her over without the plug in 10 times and start again she fires.The control lever is not to high and the metering gasket is the right way up.Why would she run perfectly when I tie the throttle wide open.
 
I have pressure tested the carb, it does not leak.I,m not sure about the flooding,all I know is it stops and won't start, but if I clean the plug and pull her over without the plug in 10 times and start again she fires.The control lever is not to high and the metering gasket is the right way up.Why would she run perfectly when I tie the throttle wide open.
You said the saw was likely to have been sitting for a while when you got it, was there any gas in it? Was the carb all "gummed-up" inside with old/bad gas?
And now it runs at full throttle but floods at less than full throttle might indicate the low speed jet is letting way too much gas through.
It could be the low speed needle valve is damaged or the seat for the needle valve is damaged.
I would examine the low speed needle valve closely and carefully compare it to the one that you have in the other carb on the other saw. You could even try it in the other carb on the other saw to see if it shows the same symptoms.
 
I have pressure tested the carb, it does not leak.I,m not sure about the flooding,all I know is it stops and won't start, but if I clean the plug and pull her over without the plug in 10 times and start again she fires.The control lever is not to high and the metering gasket is the right way up.Why would she run perfectly when I tie the throttle wide open.
It is critical to know if flooding is really the issue. When you clean the plug, is it really wet?
 
You said the saw was likely to have been sitting for a while when you got it, was there any gas in it? Was the carb all "gummed-up" inside with old/bad gas?
And now it runs at full throttle but floods at less than full throttle might indicate the low speed jet is letting way too much gas through.
It could be the low speed needle valve is damaged or the seat for the needle valve is damaged.
I would examine the low speed needle valve closely and carefully compare it to the one that you have in the other carb on the other saw. You could even try it in the other carb on the other saw to see if it shows the same symptoms.
Thanks for that .Ihave several spare needles ,I will give it a try.
 
The fact that 2 different carbs produces the same fault on the saw would indicate that it isn't a carb problem and since it will run at high speed with the throttle held open, it seems unlikely to be a serious flooding issue. How does that saw achieve a fast idle setting for starting and is it properly set with the throttle plate obviously off the idle adjust screw? When it starts, does it run fast with the chain moving before you blip the throttle to allow it to go to normal idle? If it dies as soon as it goes to normal idle, you could set the idle speed higher with the idle speed screw and that might give you enough time to try varying the idle mixture screw before it dies.
 
The fact that 2 different carbs produces the same fault on the saw would indicate that it isn't a carb problem and since it will run at high speed with the throttle held open, it seems unlikely to be a serious flooding issue. How does that saw achieve a fast idle setting for starting and is it properly set with the throttle plate obviously off the idle adjust screw? When it starts, does it run fast with the chain moving before you blip the throttle to allow it to go to normal idle? If it dies as soon as it goes to normal idle, you could set the idle speed higher with the idle speed screw and that might give you enough time to try varying the idle mixture screw before it dies.
I must admit I have tried that ,but I will try adjusting the idle screw again.I usually adjust the idle screw when I have a saw running.In other words adjusting the screw so that the chain is just trying to move.
 
Back
Top