McCulloch Chain Saws

[fechtichmac]

New addition.
Nearly unused [emoji3516]

Gesendet von meinem SM-G955F mit Tapatalk

 

[Xpropane]

You may want to consider checking for good spark by using a drill in reverse on the flywheel nut (or forward on the clutch) to spin the saw over while grounding the plug against the cylinder -- (kill switch in the run position, of course).

Yes it's getting good spark, I sanded the points a bit and adjusted to the spec I believe this website. Checked for spark before I twisted the center out of the reel.
But thanks, I do need to buy the kill it switch. It was missing when I bought the lot of saws.

 

[Xpropane]

I used the specs in Ipl's and compared them to a OEM piston also.

Man I can't keep up with you guys( not complaining, this is great) I'm working 6 12's right now, so haven't put in the most diligence in my research. With the unmeasurable amount of experience of all of you, how can I go wrong?

 

[Xpropane]

I will get pictures of mine tonight and attempt to attach them here. Plus eyeball measure the keyway for my mental records.

 

[vinnywv]

Boy thats clean!! Itll be a real bute clark

 

[Xpropane]

There is also a wider metal starter pawl replacement kit, 94258. On either kit the instructions say to pry the old pawl pins out but I have not had much success in getting the old ones out. If I know a saw is going to be used with the all plastic starter drum I try to find a flywheel with either the plastic or the wide metal pawls.

This style of starter pawl should only be used with the original plastic/metal clutch starter drum.

View attachment 955975

This style starter drum, preferably one that is not cracked or that has been reinforced.

View attachment 955976

These are one type of the wide metal pawls.

View attachment 955974

This is a more common retrofit metal starter pawl for use with the all plastic starter drums.

View attachment 955977

This is a flywheel with the latest plastic starter pawls.

View attachment 955978

Also keep in mind that somewhere along the way McCulloch changed the key and keyway from a standard 1/8" wide to a narrow 1/16" wide. You have to be sure your crankshaft and flywheel agree if you try to swap them around to find the right drum/pawl combination.

View attachment 955979

Mark

Yes it looks like the original pawls on my new old saw. Not enough research on my part. Live and learn, and buy another I guess. This is why here!

 

[rwoods]

@Xpropane, hard to tell from your picture, but if there is enough of the plastic cup left for the metal sprocket to fit snugly you can use a thin hose claim to tighten the cup around the sprocket. Make sure the clamp will clear the flywheel and not interfere with the pawls. There are other repair methods but this one worked for me.

Ron

 

[Xpropane]

Boy thats clean!! Itll be a real bute clark

Well I spent an 1 1/2 cleaning out all the oil and grime. Gotta clean em up to find where the leaks are right.

 

[vinnywv]

Lol, yes. When i get a saw they generally lose a half a pound of weight due to cleaning.

 

[Xpropane]

There is also a wider metal starter pawl replacement kit, 94258. On either kit the instructions say to pry the old pawl pins out but I have not had much success in getting the old ones out. If I know a saw is going to be used with the all plastic starter drum I try to find a flywheel with either the plastic or the wide metal pawls.

This style of starter pawl should only be used with the original plastic/metal clutch starter drum.

View attachment 955975

This style starter drum, preferably one that is not cracked or that has been reinforced.

View attachment 955976

These are one type of the wide metal pawls.

View attachment 955974

This is a more common retrofit metal starter pawl for use with the all plastic starter drums.

View attachment 955977

This is a flywheel with the latest plastic starter pawls.

View attachment 955978

Also keep in mind that somewhere along the way McCulloch changed the key and keyway from a standard 1/8" wide to a narrow 1/16" wide. You have to be sure your crankshaft and flywheel agree if you try to swap them around to find the right drum/pawl combination.

View attachment 955979

Mark

Welcome to the site. As mentioned there is. A lot of experience here and guys willing to help. We all started in the same spot. Had a question and asked. Im really interested in that meteor piston from greece. Your opinion will be greatly appreciated of it. I put a lrb piston in a nos block last year from the infamous bob johnson. Its held up fine. The 70cc saws are great machines. Keep us posted on your progress.

It sounds like I need to find out more about sir Bob Johnson
An NOS block? That's like finding a leprechaun right?

 

[Xpropane]

The LRB piston is a thick ring 85239.

What is the difference in the Pistons 85239 and 85240 in the specs page. Maybe I have it wrong, but it seam the pro 700 and the 6-10 share the same piston? If so I could buy the LBR piston and compare it to the one from Greece when it gets here. So did you use the original wrist pin?

 

[McCulloch38]

One of these? Mine has an 18" bar.
They are notorious for the oil line being broken (or missing).

View attachment 954475

Ill post a pic, but yeah, my oil lines were bad

 

[heimannm]

I've had success reinforcing the plastic/metal starter drums if I catch them before they separate.



I found a piece of pipe that was just a bit smaller than the cup on the drum and bore it to a nice snug press fit.



You have to match the ring to each individual starter drum as the diameter varies.



I didn't remember to take a photo of the final, but the ring presses on then I secure it in place with a couple of pop rivets. I formerly was drilling and tapping to install some 6-32 set screws but that cup is hard and I would usually break a tap. Whoever suggested the pop rivets I thank you, saved me $6-$7 per repair...

Mark

 

[heimannm]

There is no "thick ring" 85239 today, the only 85239 you will find is a thin ring piston that uses 89732 thin rings.

The McCulloch documentation was notoriously bad in those days and identified some pistons as 85239 with thick rings but the pistons were alternatively 69412, 85240, 68421 (with thrust washers), and 69030. And then there were two different part numbers for the thick ring set, 87166 and 85241. I believe the 85241 set had the top ring chrome plated for use in iron bore saws, the later 87166 were just plain cast iron rings that could be used in either chrome bore or iron bore cylinders.

From various editions of the McCulloch Cylinder & Piston lists:






85239 on the left, 85240 on the right.



I also have a 69412 and 68421 on hand, if I remember I'll take some photos but I think they both a full skirt piston and use thick rings.

All of this was just covered a few pages back, someone check it out and make sure I have my facts straight, I'm getting a little tired tonight.

Mark

 

[vinnywv]

It sounds like I need to find out more about sir Bob Johnson
An NOS block? That's like finding a leprechaun right?

It would seem but last i checked on a 70cc nos block bob had a couple left. The one he sent me was a points style cylinder. Coil mount gave that away.

 

[Xpropane]

There is no "thick ring" 85239 today, the only 85239 you will find is a thin ring piston that uses 89732 thin rings.

The McCulloch documentation was notoriously bad in those days and identified some pistons as 85239 with thick rings but the pistons were alternatively 69412, 85240, 68421 (with thrust washers), and 69030. And then there were two different part numbers for the thick ring set, 87166 and 85241. I believe the 85241 set had the top ring chrome plated for use in iron bore saws, the later 87166 were just plain cast iron rings that could be used in either chrome bore or iron bore cylinders.

From various editions of the McCulloch Cylinder & Piston lists:

View attachment 956175
View attachment 956180
View attachment 956182
View attachment 956183

85239 on the left, 85240 on the right.

View attachment 956173

I also have a 69412 and 68421 on hand, if I remember I'll take some photos but I think they both a full skirt piston and use thick rings.

All of this was just covered a few pages back, someone check it out and make sure I have my facts straight, I'm getting a little tired tonight.

Mark

I imagine I will get the opens window piston with the thrust washers for rings...

 

[Xpropane]

I imagine I will get the opens window piston with the thrust washers for rings...

For the

It would seem but last i checked on a 70cc nos block bob had a couple left. The one he sent me was a points style cylinder. Coil mount gave that away.

These blocks are reserved for the chosen few, that have proven themselves worthy?

 

[edju1958]

For the

These blocks are reserved for the chosen few, that have proven themselves worthy?

Those blocks are for sale to whoever steps up with the money first.

 

[vinnywv]

For the

These blocks are reserved for the chosen few, that have proven themselves worthy?

Lol, that was last summer. He may have sold them all. I had lots of spare 10 series parts. Enough to build a saw but i had no engine. Got an engine and now have a brand new 7-10 under the hood of scratched up body parts.

 

[Xpropane]

Those blocks are for sale to whoever steps up with the money first.

Ooh I'm working a lot of overtime!