Whats the easiest to learn chain sharpener

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chuckinnc

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
18
Reaction score
10
Location
Western,NC
I have tried many files & dremel setups but only make powder or sawdust after sharpening a chain, I need the EASIEST, dummy proof way to sharpen a chain. All my chains are 3/8 pico or low profile, I have been looking
at Stihl 2in1 sharpener, seems to be easiest to learn. Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
 
Couple things I would suggest. Screenshot_2022-02-14-10-59-24.png
Husqvarna Roller guide is the best guide I've used, and most come with a depth gauge attached for checking drag height. Also make sure your files are sharp/ new and of a good brand. Cheap junk files won't give good performance. Grinders are "easy" to use, but I found I can get a chain sharper with a file. Not to mention the troubles that can come from poor use of a grinder, burnt cutters, taking off too much and using up your chain etc. Plus field maintenance is easier once you learn to file properly. Taking 3 chains to the woods, and taking the time to change them, dropping bar nuts in the snow..... You get the picture. What brand of chain are you running?
Hope this helps.
 
One thing I forgot to add is make sure you have a stable spot to sharpen / mount the saw in. Shop vise, stump vise, or something like it. Some guys hold their bar by hand, squeeze the powerhead between their legs or other things. I just find it easier the have both hands for filing, and have the saw sitting solid.
 
Couple things I would suggest. View attachment 964865
Husqvarna Roller guide is the best guide I've used, and most come with a depth gauge attached for checking drag height. Also make sure your files are sharp/ new and of a good brand. Cheap junk files won't give good performance. Grinders are "easy" to use, but I found I can get a chain sharper with a file. Not to mention the troubles that can come from poor use of a grinder, burnt cutters, taking off too much and using up your chain etc. Plus field maintenance is easier once you learn to file properly. Taking 3 chains to the woods, and taking the time to change them, dropping bar nuts in the snow..... You get the picture. What brand of chain are you running?
Hope this helps.
The reason I suggest the Granberg and the Oregon is the OP was looking for "Dummy proof." Both the husky roller guide and the stihl/prefrd 2 in 1 rely on freehanding the file. I freehand, have for years, and it works just fine for me, but I recognize that is a skill that takes hours and years to master. Both the stihl and husky systems do allow for a certain amount of movement in the chain that allows for human error, whereas once a granberg is properly set, you will have consistent results. Same with a grinder.
 
I've also tried a bunch of options.

Here are my thoughts:

1) Sharpen the chain long before you are "just making fine dust". Once you hit that spot, you have left yourself in a tough situation to hand file and get back to something worthwhile. Not saying it can't be done. I'm saying that is a hard place to learn from.
2) If your chains are in bad shape, it may be worth having them sharpened on a bench grinder. After that you can keep them sharp by hand. Several years ago I finally broke down and bought a bench grinder. I don't use it often. But when I need it nothing beats it.
3) Use quality files. And keep them new. Files also gets dull. Once that happens no matter what the system is you will not get results. I prefer Pferd classic files.
4) It should go without saying...but make sure you are using the correct size of file.
5) Finally, I've also been extremely happy with the Pferd Chain Sharp CS-X. I have one Stihl and one Pferd (different sizes of different saws...). They are identical except for color.

The Granberg thing does a good job, but is obnoxious to set up. So I never use it. Dremel thing was not that good...even the purpose-made Oregon thing that uses the same stones wasn't worth it. I've seen good reviews of the Timberline, but haven't used it.
 
I have tried many files & dremel setups but only make powder or sawdust after sharpening a chain, I need the EASIEST, dummy proof way to sharpen a chain. All my chains are 3/8 pico or low profile, I have been looking
at Stihl 2in1 sharpener, seems to be easiest to learn. Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
We have begun using the two in one system by Pferd or Stihl. Most all of our work is in the storm response arena. We have most everything from 170 to 661. Saws occ get buried in the dirt and the trees are already covered with the storm debris …. Therefore we are sharpening often. We usually have one person dedicated to sharpen all the saws…. set up at a table by our trailer… Using the two and one, albeit with some practice, we can go from find dust to long curly Q’s after spending about 15 minutes with the smaller saws. Also much quicker and simpler as the rakers are addressed with the two and one at the same time as the cutters. Also with the two in one new volunteers, if they have a bit of mechanical inclination, can learn the 2n1 system quicker than with a simple round file. Newbies struggle w 30 degrees and horizontal and it is apparent when you come behind them w 2-in-1. This system may not work for everybody but in our environment it is a tremendous improvement over where we were. And to be sure…most on here have much more experience than I do.
 
Would say to just look/model to just dress chains by hand;
let pro w/pro-grinder(and never a dark tooth from heat) reset/rebuild to spec and advise.
as most realistic.
It's not rocket science... just the right tool for the job, and for a newbie, take the hand work out of the equation.
 
I have tried many files & dremel setups but only make powder or sawdust after sharpening a chain, I need the EASIEST, dummy proof way to sharpen a chain. All my chains are 3/8 pico or low profile, I have been looking
at Stihl 2in1 sharpener, seems to be easiest to learn. Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
I would go with the Stihl combo, it sharpens cutter and takes a shave off
the depth gauges at the same time, that way everything will stay in sync,
your using the original new chain as the jig to follow.
 
We have begun using the two in one system by Pferd or Stihl. Most all of our work is in the storm response arena. We have most everything from 170 to 661. Saws occ get buried in the dirt and the trees are already covered with the storm debris …. Therefore we are sharpening often. We usually have one person dedicated to sharpen all the saws…. set up at a table by our trailer… Using the two and one, albeit with some practice, we can go from find dust to long curly Q’s after spending about 15 minutes withvthe smaller saws. Also much quicker and simpler as the rakers are addressed with the two and one at the same time as the cutters. Also with the two in one new volunteers, if they have a bit of mechanical inclination, can learn the 2n1 system quicker than with a simple round file. Newbies struggle w 30 degrees and horizontal and it is apparent when you come behind them w 2-in-1. This system may not work for everybody but in our environment it is a tremendous improvement over where we were. And to be sure…most on here have much more experience than I do.
I agree, but if you can use a two in one, then you can use the simplified
versions of either Stihl or Oregon, it only files the cutter, then once in a while
the depth gauges need a swipe, the skills are transferable from one tool to another, those tools that rest on the chain with the rollers do a good job too,
its all about getting in some practice.
 
I used the husky roller guide and Stihl 2n1 and thought they were both good but for different reasons. The Stihl is the faster and easier option but the husky can help train you to file freehand imo. It’s just one of those things that takes practice and finding out what works for you.

Another tip for best results is to set up good lighting on your bench vise area. If you can see the edge of the tooth reflecting it means that edge is not sharp. It’s easy to miss in regular lighting but it’s a huge difference maker. Also you can better monitor your hook and angle, it should look like it was when it was new.
 
I have tried many files & dremel setups but only make powder or sawdust after sharpening a chain, I need the EASIEST, dummy proof way to sharpen a chain. All my chains are 3/8 pico or low profile, I have been looking
at Stihl 2in1 sharpener, seems to be easiest to learn. Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
Suspicion you are not filing depth gages? STIHL 2 in 1 is easiest and will give great results, filing cutter and depth at same time. https://www.amazon.com/s/?k=stihl+2...4a-7ae4f24203e8&pd_rd_wg=B6uma&qid=1644889677
 
I agree, but if you can use a two in one, then you can use the simplified
versions of either Stihl or Oregon, it only files the cutter, then once in a while
the depth gauges need a swipe, the skills are transferable from one tool to another, those tools that rest on the chain with the rollers do a good job too,
its all about getting in some practice.
Would say to just look/model to just dress chains by hand;
let pro w/pro-grinder(and never a dark tooth from heat) reset/rebuild to spec and advise.
as most realistic.
Good info TreeSpyder. Thank you!
 
I used the husky roller guide and Stihl 2n1 and thought they were both good but for different reasons. The Stihl is the faster and easier option but the husky can help train you to file freehand imo. It’s just one of those things that takes practice and finding out what works for you.

Another tip for best results is to set up good lighting on your bench vise area. If you can see the edge of the tooth reflecting it means that edge is not sharp. It’s easy to miss in regular lighting but it’s a huge difference maker. Also you can better monitor your hook and angle, it should look like it was when it was new.
Not familiar w Husky Roller Guide…. Searching now for them….
 
I need the EASIEST, dummy proof way to sharpen a chain.

Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
Lots of ways to sharpen. Lots of opinions too!

I think that the best solution for you is to find someone down there in North Carolina to show you in person, and to coach you a little, and share some tips.

*Which A.S. Members live in ‘the old north state’?*

Then do it their way, using their tools and methods.

In general, I believe that the most important thing is knowing what you want your finished cutters to look like: then you can choose a method you prefer to get you there. And if you use files, remember that they get dull and need to be replaced periodically.

Philbert
 
For the easiest way to get consistent results, I would suggest the Granberg bar mount system for out in the field. My neighbor just bought the Oregon compact bench grinder and I helped him set it up. For 70 bucks on Amazon, I was really impressed.
I agree on the Granberg (or one of the Tecomec similar units). A little bit of a learning curve but it offers good consistent results every time with a good file.
 
Agreed. I have a close friend who was a chief backcountry ranger for one of our largest National Parks. There for 30 years. Used saws deep in bxcounty days on end…. where no power avail for clearing blowdown off trails. Therefore only hand file w old style metal file guide or free hand. Grateful for time he spent w me.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top