Whats the easiest to learn chain sharpener

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The part that throws me off with the granberg, is what do you do in the field? Hike back to the truck? For all the bother I'd go with a grinder, and 2 spare chains. It sure doesn't seem like it would be a real time efficient tool. I might be lazy, but I hate to fight my way though 200 yds of brush to get something from the truck, so i like my stuff to be on my belt. I guess if you're bucking firewood on a landing, or yard things would be different.
 

Any recommended videos I can use w these! Thanks for letting me know !
I don't know of any videos, sure you could find them on YouTube. Really easy to use, just like free hand, except it keeps you up in the top of the tooth, so you have a consistent height, and you can see your angle easily.
 
The part that throws me off with the granberg, is what do you do in the field? Hike back to the truck? For all the bother I'd go with a grinder, and 2 spare chains. It sure doesn't seem like it would be a real time efficient tool. I might be lazy, but I hate to fight my way though 200 yds of brush to get something from the truck, so i like my stuff to be on my belt. I guess if you're bucking firewood on a landing, or yard things would be different.
Read the original post... he has tried most methods with little success, and is looking for something "dummy proof". I think a walk back to the truck for repeatable results will be worth it to him.
 
Round file. I prefer one size bigger then recommended, but that’s just me.
Sit down and wear out a couple chains learning how to sharpen them.

file out under the tooth first, take out the gullet, and the file the cutting edge from underneath. Down, back, and up.

Bucking Billy Ray had a good video on YouTube about it.
 
My guess I the problem is deeper than just the file system. Ever try getting cheap junk chain brought back around after its making dust? Not fun. He never said what brand he's using.
 
I have tried many files & dremel setups but only make powder or sawdust after sharpening a chain, I need the EASIEST, dummy proof way to sharpen a chain. All my chains are 3/8 pico or low profile, I have been looking
at Stihl 2in1 sharpener, seems to be easiest to learn. Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
All the tools are of no use unless you watch a few more YouTubes on what actually makes a chain (teeth) sharp and useful for cutting. Specifically the side of the tooth, the top of the tooth and the geometry required, plus the most forgotten thing of all reducing the top of the raker in front of the tooth as the tooth gets smaller. You can sharpen until the cows come home but if you have lost the gap between the top of the raker and the front of the tooth (because your tooth has been sharpened down - it is at an sloping down angle) then the tooth has no cut gap.
Hard to setup and fancy tools take the need for knowledge away, other than how to use them, but knowing what is happening means one should be able to hand file, because you then know how it should move and direction etc. The Stihl 2 in 1 helps not only the tooth angle but auto reduces the raker for you so you don't have to think about that. You still need to know how to use it and the reason you get a good sharpen because of how you use it.
Some in here have commented on another forgotten gem.......files dull.... a dull file will not remove metal from your chain teeth. They are cheap so renew them often.
 
Couple things I would suggest. View attachment 964865
Husqvarna Roller guide is the best guide I've used, and most come with a depth gauge attached for checking drag height. Also make sure your files are sharp/ new and of a good brand. Cheap junk files won't give good performance. Grinders are "easy" to use, but I found I can get a chain sharper with a file. Not to mention the troubles that can come from poor use of a grinder, burnt cutters, taking off too much and using up your chain etc. Plus field maintenance is easier once you learn to file properly. Taking 3 chains to the woods, and taking the time to change them, dropping bar nuts in the snow..... You get the picture. What brand of chain are you running?
Hope this helps.
Orgeon, because that's what the local Northern tool carries, not much to choose from where I live
 
Round file. I prefer one size bigger then recommended, but that’s just me.
Sit down and wear out a couple chains learning how to sharpen them.

file out under the tooth first, take out the gullet, and the file the cutting edge from underneath. Down, back, and up.

Bucking Billy Ray had a good video on YouTube about it.
I’ll look for this video…. Seen sev of his vids. Thx.
 
The Granberg type, clamp on file guides, will produce very sharp, uniform, consistent chains. But they can appear complex and confusing to new users, so I would not recommend them in this situation.

That said, many people love them, and the basic design has been in use over 60 years. Some people take them into the field in a small bag, where they also carry a stump vise, rags, spare parts, extra wedges, etc., and keep that with their fuel and oil.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Philbert
 
The Granberg type, clamp on file guides, will produce very sharp, uniform, consistent chains. But they can appear complex and confusing to new users, so I would not recommend them in this situation.

That said, many people love them, and the basic design has been in use over 60 years. Some people take them into the field in a small bag, where they also carry a stump vise, rags, spare parts, extra wedges, etc., and keep that with their fuel and oil.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Philbert
Great idea on the bag. 👍
 
Orgeon, because that's what the local Northern tool carries, not much to choose from where I live
Like oregon S52 that comes in plastic packages? That stuff can tend to be soft, so you'll want to sharpen long before it gets real dull, otherwise you'll be dealing with badly rounded corners. The good side is its cheap so practicing your filing on it doesn't break the wallet so bad.
 
For the easiest way to get consistent results, I would suggest the Granberg bar mount system for out in the field. My neighbor just bought the Oregon compact bench grinder and I helped him set it up. For 70 bucks on Amazon, I was really impressed.
I have used the Granberg system, and it delivers great results. Project Farm agreees. But it is slow. I prefer the 2 in 1 system.
 
By far the easiest cheapest system to get chains sharp is with a file. Guides have problems also so why use them. Chain saw grinders are for those who do not want to learn how to sharpen a chain. It takes about twenty minutes for me to sharpen a 30'' 404 semi chisel bit chain. I do not believe any one can take a chain off the bar put a new chain on the bar and adjust in under ten minutes. I have seen some people who are racing with one another just to show how fast they are but it is not relevant. Say for a moment that one can change a chain in five minutes then the chain needs to be put in a grinder to sharpen and that process takes at least fifteen minutes. So what has been gained here. The chain will need to be replaced much much sooner than a hand sharpened chain. So after watching some videos about chain sharpening and the OP still is struggling then make a deal with some one who is good at sharpening to show how it is done. I am often out in the field for weeks and months at a time so setting up a grinder does not seem practical. Then call it a day. Thanks
 
By far the easiest cheapest system to get chains sharp is with a file. Guides have problems also so why use them. Chain saw grinders are for those who do not want to learn how to sharpen a chain. It takes about twenty minutes for me to sharpen a 30'' 404 semi chisel bit chain. I do not believe any one can take a chain off the bar put a new chain on the bar and adjust in under ten minutes. I have seen some people who are racing with one another just to show how fast they are but it is not relevant. Say for a moment that one can change a chain in five minutes then the chain needs to be put in a grinder to sharpen and that process takes at least fifteen minutes. So what has been gained here. The chain will need to be replaced much much sooner than a hand sharpened chain. So after watching some videos about chain sharpening and the OP still is struggling then make a deal with some one who is good at sharpening to show how it is done. I am often out in the field for weeks and months at a time so setting up a grinder does not seem practical. Then call it a day. Thanks
Grinders do have usefulness. Badly damaged chains are great on a grinder for grinding them back and getting everything evened out again. When I’m out on a job I usually will just swap a new loop onto a saw instead of sharpening since it’s faster and if that saws not running I’m loosing money, and it’s easier to grind a loop off of the saw vs mounting it back up and hand filing. And faster. Takes about 5 mins to grind a 24” chain.
 
The Granberg type, clamp on file guides, will produce very sharp, uniform, consistent chains. But they can appear complex and confusing to new users, so I would not recommend them in this situation.

That said, many people love them, and the basic design has been in use over 60 years. Some people take them into the field in a small bag, where they also carry a stump vise, rags, spare parts, extra wedges, etc., and keep that with their fuel and oil.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Philbert
Philbert, we have one with us when we respond but only use it when a chain has sustained significant damage. As you said …. They take some time and a bit of learning curve knowledge to set up.
 
Read the original post, don't highjack it...
????
The original post asked:
Does anyone have a opinion on easiest to use chain sharpener?
Someone suggested the Granberg file guides. A few of us shared opinions that it is a very good tool, but maybe not the easiest to use, and why.

Seems we we are responding directly to the OP’s request.

Philbert
 
????
The original post asked:

Someone suggested the Granberg file guides. A few of us shared opinions that it is a very good tool, but maybe not the easiest to use, and why.

Seems we we are responding directly to the OP’s request.

Philbert
Phil, read the op closely... he is looking for consistent results, not easy as far as speed... to just tell him to get better at hand filing does him no service. He stated he had already tried the old standards and they weren't working for him, so yes, for old pros to just keep saying how they do it is not answering his original question. Keep in mind he said easiest to get results, not easiest to use or fastest...
 
Phil, read the op closely... he is looking for consistent results, not easy as far as speed... to just tell him to get better at hand filing does him no service. He stated he had already tried the old standards and they weren't working for him, so yes, for old pros to just keep saying how they do it is not answering his original question. Keep in mind he said easiest to get results, not easiest to use or fastest...
A bench grinder is the only way to get 100% consistent results, but even then, you have to play with it from side to side because in the ones I’ve it always cuts one side shorter then the other if left on the same settings.
 
. . . but even then, you have to play with it . . .

Right. None of these methods are “automatic“, including the automatic ones! That is why I am recommending that the OP find a local mentor that can give him some hands-on guidance with one of the basic methods.

Philbert
 
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