How bad is it to run a saw out of fuel under load?

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HansFranz

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Was cutting firewood today, and got down to the last cut of the day -- cutting off the stump -- when my 660 started running out of fuel. I pulled it out of the cut and turned it right side up and it got fuel again, so then I tried to finish the cut with the little fuel left in the tank. Didn't feel like going to the truck to get my other saw, but as soon as I did it, I said to myself "I don't think it's real good to run a saw out of fuel under load." Never did finish the cut -- ran out of fuel.

So I got the other saw and finished the job.

I haven't pulled the muffler to check piston condition ... and I use Mobil 1 Racing Synthetic 2T oil at 40:1 ... what are the chances that I screwed up the motor?

I'll post up what I find when I get the energy to pull the muffler. Right now, after bucking and loading a BIG white oak blowdown that has been hung up in another tree for the past 6 years, I am WIPED.

Thanks.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I just pulled the muffler to look at the piston, and it looks fine. No signs of scuffing/scoring and it has a nice sheen of oil on what appears to be the factory finish (I think it's a Meteor piston, according to the builder), so I'm hoping I'm OK.

I appreciate the help and will be sure not to make that bonehead move again.
 
If a saw is running out of fuel mid cut I give it a shake and feather the throttle and try finishing the cut.
I've run all my saws dry to the last drop in the cut for decades never had a problem but then again I don't run 50:1 lol
066/660 are tough reliable saws with more oil than 50:1 and a good oil you will get thousands of hrs out of them.
It takes like 5min for oil to migrate through a two stroke from start to finish it's a myth the engine is dry of oil if you run em out of fuel. That's why they don't seize instantly when straight gassed takes time for all the left over oil to move out of the engine in a two stroke.
 
It happens. As was said by @rogue60, there’s still lube in there so it’s fine. I try not to, if I feel it stutter I just stop and pull out and let it idle while I walk for the fuel can. Of course, if really close to being done with a last cut I’ve been guilty of using the choke to get another tiny little bit squeezed out 😂
 
Was cutting firewood today, and got down to the last cut of the day -- cutting off the stump -- when my 660 started running out of fuel. I pulled it out of the cut and turned it right side up and it got fuel again, so then I tried to finish the cut with the little fuel left in the tank. Didn't feel like going to the truck to get my other saw, but as soon as I did it, I said to myself "I don't think it's real good to run a saw out of fuel under load." Never did finish the cut -- ran out of fuel.

So I got the other saw and finished the job.

I haven't pulled the muffler to check piston condition ... and I use Mobil 1 Racing Synthetic 2T oil at 40:1 ... what are the chances that I screwed up the motor?

I'll post up what I find when I get the energy to pull the muffler. Right now, after bucking and loading a BIG white oak blowdown that has been hung up in another tree for the past 6 years, I am WIPED.

Thanks.
So, many folks are confused. You ask a question, but than suggest you'll check the internals of the engine......yes, you damaged any engine by being lazy, and no, pulling the muffler won't help. Maybe someone will have a different suggestion. Lazy = junk saws.
 
Was cutting firewood today, and got down to the last cut of the day -- cutting off the stump -- when my 660 started running out of fuel. I pulled it out of the cut and turned it right side up and it got fuel again, so then I tried to finish the cut with the little fuel left in the tank. Didn't feel like going to the truck to get my other saw, but as soon as I did it, I said to myself "I don't think it's real good to run a saw out of fuel under load." Never did finish the cut -- ran out of fuel.

So I got the other saw and finished the job.

I haven't pulled the muffler to check piston condition ... and I use Mobil 1 Racing Synthetic 2T oil at 40:1 ... what are the chances that I screwed up the motor?

I'll post up what I find when I get the energy to pull the muffler. Right now, after bucking and loading a BIG white oak blowdown that has been hung up in another tree for the past 6 years, I am WIPED.

Thanks.
THE SHORT TERM=Suspicion =too short time x failing power to do any damage. It happens a LOT without damage/ without failure with all sorts of equip.
.
 
I’m not a pro, but I do cut a lot of rounds and use a “built” Stihl .066 purchased second hand. I ran it out of 40:1 premium fuel and the motor lost all compression and needed a rebuild.
 
I know of a guy that would run his Camaro after draining the oil. He'd let the thing idle for a good minute or more. Seemed crazy, but he never had a problem with the car. Must have been doing something right.
I'd never recommend doing that for obvious reasons makes me shudder just thinking about it lol
 
Yeah, that guy must have a fatter wallet than I do! No friggin way would I take that chance! Although the older engines were definitely built far more stoutly than modern junk. Long before "value-added engineering" became a thing.

Our '86 Grand Marquis with a 5.0 / 302 is still running strong at 288k miles. For 14 springtime start ups, she'd knock like crazy until that ice cold 20w-50 got moving. I've since switched to synthetic, even though she's still got the same rear main seal leak it had when we bought her 20 years ago. Oil is still cheaper than an engine no matter how you slice it. Doesn't knock at all at those same temperatures (40° or so).

I figure that knock every spring has probably taken 100k or more off the life of the engine. I was always too lazy to pull the distributor and spin the pump.I couldn't imagine firing it up deliberately with nothing in the crankcase! 😬
 

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