Need some advice on echo 2511

[jaystihl]

Hey guys , I finally jumped on the echo 2511 bandwagon after not even looking at them since they started selling them at home Depot years ago. I have searched all over the internet looking for answers to my questions and if anything I'm more confused now than I was when I bought the saw. First is which chain is best? The Oregon 3/8 .050 is super jumpy and doesn't seem like the right fit for the saw and really surprised they still sell this chain with the saw since there has been so many complaints. I have the 14 inch 91pxl052x on it now. From what I have looked up some say go to 1/4 pico, others say stay 3/8 and go to .043. would rather stay 3/8 since the last I checked the 1/4 chains were more expensive (Stihl) but willing to do what it takes. Is there a 3/8 .050 chain that you guys like that's not so jumpy?
Next question is muffler mod, I looked everywhere on the internet for a muffler that is already modded and everyone is sold out. Some say to put a 1/2 inch hole under the original muffler exit, punch through the center baffle and put on a deflector ( I don't tig braze unfortunately but do have a welder), others say put a hole caddy corner from the original exit and enlarge one of the 3 holes that are in the center baffle as putting a hole under the original exit is bad for the saw? A lot of the threads I read were several years old so hopefully there is a definitive answer on which chain is best and a proper way to mod the muffler. Hoping to hear from some guys that have experience with this exact saw. I love the little saw but it just needs some help. Thanks for any input

 

[jaystihl]

Also I forgot to ask if anyone can recommend one of the guys on here to do a port job on one of these saws as I plan on getting another one. I saw 2 company's online doing this , ripsaw and another one but they are asking astronomical prices imo.

 

[Tomos770]

Will post some YT stuff tomorrow.... Its 2AM over here
@the moment

 

[jaystihl]

Thank you tomos, look forward to it

 

[esean]

If you want to stay with 3/8LP, get Stihl PS or PS3. Its less jumpy than the stock Oregon and holds an edge very well. Keeping the rakers higher so it takes a smaller bite might help too. The stock chain does get a little better after its sharpened back a ways.

I modded my muffler by drilling through the mid baffle from the inside to bypass the cat. I only opened the outlet a little. Its my trim/pruning saw so speed isn't a top priority, I just wanted to reduce the heat from the cat.

 

[huskihl]

I can port it if you’d like, but I’m a few months out. Send me a PM if that works for you and you want some details

 

[Tomos770]

Well......as promised.

Its just a YT channel I have been following (with interesting (to me)content). Unluckily for you its in a foreign language ( Its foreign to me to....but I do understand it- shop owner is Croatian(our neighbouring country)). So I will make/translate his key comments in videos.


Here he is discussing what he is planning to do with that saw. His goal is not to port that saw as much as he just want to improve it slightly (cylinder casting-details, muffler mod, some other factory restrictions). He just want to make better/stronger version of the already good saw ( he wants saw to be stronger but also to last!)


How to disassemble it. Its a PITA.......A Japanese technical marvel (his words). He is impressed over its quality.


Muffler mod. Its rather tricky one. His comment is......if you dont know how to weld dont do it on your own. He was welding with Co2......metal is very thin and it is hard to re-weld it back together. He just opened it like a tin......and de-gutted its catalyst converter (that mesh inside). No other mods (like side port or bigger exit hole). He wants to look as OEM as possible.



Playing with degree wheel....

Intake opens @68deg. before UDTC
Intake closes @68deg. after UDTC (he found that interesting?)

Exhaust opens @110deg. before UDTC.........and then he says that its ok to him.....that he will leave it as it is (he doesnt measure when it closes)

@2:47 he discovers some factory restriction in its transfers....he wonders why is that there.....and remove that. (factory restricted transfer flow). He is planning to discuss that on Echo seminar in a future (why they put that "wedge" there....


He discuss how there is missmatch between transfers on a chassis and cylinder........he did some mods where needed (cylinder gasket was his blueprint for that).

He also opens factory restrictions on cylinder around transfers (as shown in video). He doesnt touch timing of that cylinder......except for upper lip of intake port where he does some "mickey mouse" weddges in upper left & right corner (his goal is to make not a screamer saw...but long lasting dependable one).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdmnydJ6gPo
His "Mickey mouse" wedges (as shown).........his words.......I came from 68deg. to around 72deg. (his estimation). He touched that port just a tad!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFnMCHX0i8E

Side by side comparison (@the end of the video).

Well...thats it (if you are interested......he has also videos how he tuned his Husqvarna 365 SP)

 

[jaystihl]

Tomos, thank you for taking the time to post/ translate all these videos I really appreciate it. Will sit down tonight and go though them, looks like some great info!

 

[jaystihl]

I can port it if you’d like, but I’m a few months out. Send me a PM if that works for you and you want some details

Huskihl that sounds good, I will send you a PM

 

[jaystihl]

If you want to stay with 3/8LP, get Stihl PS or PS3. Its less jumpy than the stock Oregon and holds an edge very well. Keeping the rakers higher so it takes a smaller bite might help too. The stock chain does get a little better after its sharpened back a ways.

I modded my muffler by drilling through the mid baffle from the inside to bypass the cat. I only opened the outlet a little. Its my trim/pruning saw so speed isn't a top priority, I just wanted to reduce the heat from the cat.

Esean, excuse my ignorance but what is a PS or PS3 chain? Do you happen to have the chain number for a 14 inch bar, also do you find the Oregon bar is sufficient or should I switch to Stihl for that also? Would you recommend switching everything over to 1/4 instead? Would like to stay 3/8 but if it will cut that much better and still last I can switch to 1/4. Thanks for your help

 

[link]

PS3 is (i guess) referring to the Stihl .050 3/8lp full chisel chain.
You don't need to go 1/4, you can go 3/8lp at .043 (1,1mm), but you will need a guide bar at .043.
Both Oregon and Stihl, Makita have these super narrow kerf .043 chains, they are all good.
Yes it makes a difference on these small saws, much smoother (less vibration) and faster cutting.

 

[esean]

Y

Esean, excuse my ignorance but what is a PS or PS3 chain? Do you happen to have the chain number for a 14 inch bar, also do you find the Oregon bar is sufficient or should I switch to Stihl for that also? Would you recommend switching everything over to 1/4 instead? Would like to stay 3/8 but if it will cut that much better and still last I can switch to 1/4. Thanks for your help

"PS" is Stihl's full chisel 3/8LP 0.050" chain. The full model designation on the box is "63PS xx", with "xx" being the number of drive links. PS3 is the same thing but with anti-kickback ramps. Cuts just as fast, except maybe for plunge cuts. For 14" Echo you need the 52 link chain (63PS 52). Stihl does package it in that length, but it may be hard to find. I get it at a dealer that sells both Echo and Stihl. There's also PM and PM3, which are semi-chisel versions. The PS/PS3 stays sharp long enough that I haven't been tempted to try PM/PM3. The stock bar works fine for me. The 0.050" gauge chain is reportedly more durable than 0.043" or 1/4" pitch, though I've never run the smaller chains.

 

[huskihl]

Tooth size is a consideration on the smaller stuff. 3-4 sharpenings and the tooth is gone

 

[jaystihl]

Thanks for all the info guys! After using my Google fu I have been learning about all the different chains, realized I have pretty much always used the same chains for my trim saws and didn't know there was other options, just always walked in to the Stihl shop and said I need a 14 skinny for a stihl 194 and used whatever they gave me. Turns out all my 194's (14 inch) are 61pmm3 .043 3/8 so curious if you guys think one of these ps or PS3 chains might be a better fit? I have only used Stihl for the past 20 years and just now using a husky t525 ( 12 inch) and a echo 2511(14 inch) which requires different chains. I doubt my Stihl dealer is going to have the PS and PS3 chains but found them on eBay but they are $30 each. Going to check with with the dealer on Monday to see if they have any in stock or maybe they can order for me. Used the 2511 yesterday to rig oak limbs over a screen enclosure and really love that little saw but it just gets so damn jumpy on bigger wood. Really hoping these ps or Ps3 chains will help otherwise I may have to try .043. huskihl were you referring to the .043 when you said you can only get a couple sharpens out of them? I was surprised to see that the 194's use .043 and the little echo uses .050 chains.

 

[Sierra_rider]

I'm a big fan of the WoodlandPro arbormax-lite bar on my 2511t. It comes with a loop of 3/8lp, .043 non-safety chain. Available from Bailey's and cost around $40 for the bar and a loop of chain. Comes in 12-14-16" bar lengths.

As far as muffler mods, I split the muffler on mine and gutted the insides. I finished up my enlarging to opening and making a new deflector.

I wouldn't bother with splitting the muffler unless you can braze or are pretty good with a welder. I used one of my Migs that's set up for welding sheet metal and it was still a PITA to weld. The muffler material is very thin gauge stuff.

 

[huskihl]

Thanks for all the info guys! After using my Google fu I have been learning about all the different chains, realized I have pretty much always used the same chains for my trim saws and didn't know there was other options, just always walked in to the Stihl shop and said I need a 14 skinny for a stihl 194 and used whatever they gave me. Turns out all my 194's (14 inch) are 61pmm3 .043 3/8 so curious if you guys think one of these ps or PS3 chains might be a better fit? I have only used Stihl for the past 20 years and just now using a husky t525 ( 12 inch) and a echo 2511(14 inch) which requires different chains. I doubt my Stihl dealer is going to have the PS and PS3 chains but found them on eBay but they are $30 each. Going to check with with the dealer on Monday to see if they have any in stock or maybe they can order for me. Used the 2511 yesterday to rig oak limbs over a screen enclosure and really love that little saw but it just gets so damn jumpy on bigger wood. Really hoping these ps or Ps3 chains will help otherwise I may have to try .043. huskihl were you referring to the .043 when you said you can only get a couple sharpens out of them? I was surprised to see that the 194's use .043 and the little echo uses .050 chains.

I’m not certain if it was 1/4, .325, or 3/8 narrow kerf (.043 ga stuff) that I was looking at. But on some of the really small ones, the teeth are only 1/4 “long or less when brand new

 

[jaystihl]

I'm a big fan of the WoodlandPro arbormax-lite bar on my 2511t. It comes with a loop of 3/8lp, .043 non-safety chain. Available from Bailey's and cost around $40 for the bar and a loop of chain. Comes in 12-14-16" bar lengths.

As far as muffler mods, I split the muffler on mine and gutted the insides. I finished up my enlarging to opening and making a new deflector.

I wouldn't bother with splitting the muffler unless you can braze or are pretty good with a welder. I used one of my Migs that's set up for welding sheet metal and it was still a PITA to weld. The muffler material is very thin gauge stuff.

Thanks Sierra, I will look into the woodland stuff as well, I think I remember see that name mentioned on another thread during my searches. I have a decent welder and I'm more of a grinder than a welder. I can weld thicker stuff pretty well but that really thin stuff I am horrible at so I will not be splitting the muffler. I've also noticed on different threads that some of the mufflers come with a catalytic converter and others do not so I'm not sure which one I have. Would just like to know where to make the hole in the muffler, as stated earlier some say to make the whole caddy corner to the original exit and some say to make the whole directly under the original exit. I guess the argument was that if you make the hole under the original exit there is a chance of pulling in air at some point during the thousands of RPM cycles? Also what size to make the hole is important as well, too big and you actually lose performance but seems that a half inch hole has been the norm. Huskihl do you know if porting a saw will actually hurt the longevity of the engine? Would like you to Port the next saw I get regardless but I was just curious. My local ECHO dealer is out of stock on the 2511s but being that you are a couple months out this will give me time to get another saw. Watch august hunike's YouTube videos just makes me want to try out a ported 2511, those little things scream

 

[esean]

Thanks for all the info guys! After using my Google fu I have been learning about all the different chains, realized I have pretty much always used the same chains for my trim saws and didn't know there was other options, just always walked in to the Stihl shop and said I need a 14 skinny for a stihl 194 and used whatever they gave me. Turns out all my 194's (14 inch) are 61pmm3 .043 3/8 so curious if you guys think one of these ps or PS3 chains might be a better fit? I have only used Stihl for the past 20 years and just now using a husky t525 ( 12 inch) and a echo 2511(14 inch) which requires different chains. I doubt my Stihl dealer is going to have the PS and PS3 chains but found them on eBay but they are $30 each. Going to check with with the dealer on Monday to see if they have any in stock or maybe they can order for me. Used the 2511 yesterday to rig oak limbs over a screen enclosure and really love that little saw but it just gets so damn jumpy on bigger wood. Really hoping these ps or Ps3 chains will help otherwise I may have to try .043. huskihl were you referring to the .043 when you said you can only get a couple sharpens out of them? I was surprised to see that the 194's use .043 and the little echo uses .050 chains.

$30 is nuts. I paid <$20 at the dealer, and if you bought two you got a third free. That was pre-covid, however.

 

[jaystihl]

Is it ok to do the muffler mod on the 2511 before it's broke in? Pulled the limiter caps out and put on some bumper spikes last night so only thing left is the muff mod. Nothing like modding a muff

 

[esean]

Yes, as long as you pull the plastic limiters off the adjustment screws and properly tune the saw after you open the muffler.