Best Chain saw for under $1200.00 to buy for cutting trees once a month or so, not every week?

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The 261 isn't a bad choice. One of these days, I'll likely replace my problematic mk1 Husky 550xp with one. We have a couple at work, they're really strong saws for their size and seem to be trouble-free. I'm a fan of the M-tronic saws, I haven't really had any issues with any of the current gen M-tronics...I've run several at work and own a couple as personal saws.

I personally like running 20" bars w/chisel chain on the 50cc saws, but this is kind of a regional/tree specific thing.
 
The 261 isn't a bad choice. One of these days, I'll likely replace my problematic mk1 Husky 550xp with one. We have a couple at work, they're really strong saws for their size and seem to be trouble-free. I'm a fan of the M-tronic saws, I haven't really had any issues with any of the current gen M-tronics...I've run several at work and own a couple as personal saws.

I personally like running 20" bars w/chisel chain on the 50cc saws, but this is kind of a regional/tree specific thing.
+1 for 20" on 50cc saws, but then I'm from the west coast too....
Still that's what I run now that I've moved to America.
 
The best advice is to get the smallest lightest saw that fits your needs, even bar length adds weight and weight is the enemy when its in your hands the whole time your working. Second best advice is never lend your saw to anyone including relatives, make them go with you to look at saw prices and suggest they buy their own because the tool loan program is closed. Third is maint habits and needs. Your going to need more than just the saw when your walking out the door. You will want extra chains, oils, a second larger bar/chain size, a dedicated combi can and a hard case to keep it organized.
Honestly I think you would be fine with a ms180 or even a ms251 with a 16" bar, the 261 with a 16" bar should be a real screamer and allow you to cut larger stuff with a 20" bar swap.
Take all what saw/oil/chain to buy advice in here with a grain of salt being this place is full of chainsaw junkies. When the stihl dealer says buy our oil to get extra warranty time get the orange bottle not the silver and remember walmart/tractor supply have bar oil for 10 bucks a gallon so load up before winter.
 
I actually bought a Stihl MS 500i brand new for less than $1200. Maybe my dealer made a pricing mistake. But it is the least fatiguing saw I have ever used.
 
I was told by the dealer here that the odd numbered Stihl saws are Mr weekenders and the even numbers are pro or commercial duty. That was after poor service from two 250s the second one left here in pieces in a box. Now using my second 261ms arctic package and its all i need. Doing some more heavy clearing here mostly medium sized spruce from 12 to 16 inch butts and 75 to 90 feet tall. Not heavy west coast timber but this saw is all I need, Keep it sharp and trim the rakers and it's astounding to watch the speed while bucking. Just my thoughts after fifty years of building with logs and heating with firewood.
 
The best advice is to get the smallest lightest saw that fits your needs, even bar length adds weight and weight is the enemy when its in your hands the whole time your working. Second best advice is never lend your saw to anyone including relatives, make them go with you to look at saw prices and suggest they buy their own because the tool loan program is closed. Third is maint habits and needs. Your going to need more than just the saw when your walking out the door. You will want extra chains, oils, a second larger bar/chain size, a dedicated combi can and a hard case to keep it organized.
Honestly I think you would be fine with a ms180 or even a ms251 with a 16" bar, the 261 with a 16" bar should be a real screamer and allow you to cut larger stuff with a 20" bar swap.
Take all what saw/oil/chain to buy advice in here with a grain of salt being this place is full of chainsaw junkies. When the stihl dealer says buy our oil to get extra warranty time get the orange bottle not the silver and remember walmart/tractor supply have bar oil for 10 bucks a gallon so load up before winter.

I got a 2015 MS 180C, insanely light, that I modified the muffler and pulled the intake insert out on. That thing is a screamer now and running 32:1 in it. Night & Day difference.

With the factory 16" bar and chain set up, I dropped a 30" Black Walnut and was pulling the whole time with no bogging. Also used it to buck up 16-20" logs and it was ripping them like nobody's business. Not far behind my MS261 with a 18" bar in the Power to Weight ratio department.

Mad3400
 
I worked with a guy, who deer hunt, fished & sold firewood, when not at work, he swear by the Farm Boss, but he only cut wood on the weekends.
I am thinking 18" bar on a Stihl 261 or 361, but we will see what the dealers have to say.

I got a 2015 MS 180C, insanely light, that I modified the muffler and pulled the intake insert out on. That thing is a screamer now and running 32:1 in it. Night & Day difference.

With the factory 16" bar and chain set up, I dropped a 30" Black Walnut and was pulling the whole time with no bogging. Also used it to buck up 16-20" logs and it was ripping them like nobody's business. Not far behind my MS261 with a 18" bar in the Power to Weight ratio department.

Mad3400
@Mad3400 What's the intake insert? Term I'm not familiar with.
Thanks
 
and remember walmart/tractor supply have bar oil for 10 bucks a gallon so load up before winter.
Menards and Rural King have bar oil for $7/gal :) Don't get me wrong, running a long bar with barely enough oil, it's worth using good bar oil. Maybe the same is true when milling, but for 16" to 24" bars on most saws, $7/gal works just fine.
 
Menards and Rural King have bar oil for $7/gal :) Don't get me wrong, running a long bar with barely enough oil, it's worth using good bar oil. Maybe the same is true when milling, but for 16" to 24" bars on most saws, $7/gal works just fine.
What would be considered "good bar oil"?

I've only recently started paying attention to this stuff, but from my observation, most guys (guys who run saws professionally) here are running Husqvarna oil in their saws regardless of saw make.
 
Not a pro here and less experience than most on the site, but I cut fairly regularly, a bit more than OP describes. I’ve had an ms400 for about a year and love it. It sounds like you’re on the right track with a 261. If you think you need a bit more saw, the 400 has been a fantastic saw to own and run. I appreciate a lighter saw, and don’t find the 400 to be too much, especially considering weight to power. I was given an ms170 and find that I use it more than I thought I would for limbing, etc. If it wasn’t given to me, I probably wouldn’t think I needed a smaller saw, but have enjoyed having one. I would think the 261 would suit you well for what you describe. Can’t speak to the other brands as I’ve stuck with Stihl due to local dealer support and availability, but I’m sure there’s other good options. Good luck and be safe.
 
What would be considered "good bar oil"?

I've only recently started paying attention to this stuff, but from my observation, most guys (guys who run saws professionally) here are running Husqvarna oil in their saws regardless of saw make.
Husky oil is probably fine. I don't have anything that's starving for oil so the cheap stuff works fine in my saws.
 
What would be considered "good bar oil"?

I've only recently started paying attention to this stuff, but from my observation, most guys (guys who run saws professionally) here are running Husqvarna oil in their saws regardless of saw make.
No idea really. Everything I have does just fine on $7/gal oil.
 
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