441

[flatsfisher]

damn. this just popped up and was less than 15 minutes away. the guy was negotiable so it was practically free and...I...just...couldn't...resist. not running, has great compression just pulling the starter and hanging the saw from the starter rope. I think the cylinder is original. I hope. just got home with it, was trying to figure out how to remove the muffler and had to leave it and have dinner.

 

[flatsfisher]

I know these saws apparently weren't well received. would like to hear the bad and the good. and yes, it is a little heavy.

 

[flatsfisher]

apparently the 2 bolt holes on the front of the muffler had the remains of plastic plugs in them. when I probed in there this fine white powder fell out. I don't think those plugs had been removed in many years. got the muffler off and of course the piston is all scratched up and the cylinder wall looks damaged. pretty much what I expected for 75 bucks. on the upside, first chainsaw muffler I've seen that is made of material that doesn't rust. looks brand new.

 

[stihltech]

The plugs were originally metal.Either removed or fell out.
The CM versions definitely had ignition and carb issues. That being said, I still service quite a few. Still have a hat and poster in the shop. Before it was politically incorrect.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Great opportunity to send it out for porting with a new top end.

 

[SimonHS]

the cylinder wall looks damaged

Is it deeply scratched or is it just aluminium transfer, that can be cleaned off.

If the cylinder can be saved it will be relatively easy to fit a new piston.

Can you post some pictures?

 

[flatsfisher]

don't have it apart yet, just peeked in the exhaust port. I can see a small ding in the cylinder wall and a piece of the top ring is missing. it's likely a mess.

this saw is well used. I would guess it had a life of commercial work from the look of it. plastic is worn and faded. the rubber on the handle has a million dings. was def not a homeowner saw.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

We must be kindred spirits for saws , besides my Mccullochs I really like the 441 variants.
I have rebuilt a carburetor version and a M-tronic"C" and I am impressed with both saws.
The good is they are about the strongest 70cc saw you can get used.
They are incredibly smooth and the ergonomics are spot on .
Being strato port design they are noticeably better on fuel then most other saws in their class.
They really cut above their class with a little bit of work. One of mine normally wears a 34" bar.
Stihl really dumped alot of innovation ( quality) into them at the time which are still being used in features of the current saws.

The bad almost no aftermarket support, so cheap plastic covers or handles are a no go. There is aftermarket cylinders and pistons but they aren't what I'd call quality? I haven't seen them all.
They are notoriously difficult to disassemble and assemble, hourly rate for replacing the fuel line would probably constitute a new saw for cost.
Replacing or removing the fuel tank can cause many repairmen to start praying to dark primal gods.
Patience is required.

 

[flatsfisher]

We must be kindred spirits for saws , besides my Mccullochs I really like the 441 variants.
I have rebuilt a carburetor version and a M-tronic"C" and I am impressed with both saws.
The good is they are about the strongest 70cc saw you can get used.
They are incredibly smooth and the ergonomics are spot on .
Being strato port design they are noticeably better on fuel then most other saws in their class.
They really cut above their class with a little bit of work. One of mine normally wears a 34" bar.
Stihl really dumped alot of innovation ( quality) into them at the time which are still being used in features of the current saws.

The bad almost no aftermarket support, so cheap plastic covers or handles are a no go. There is aftermarket cylinders and pistons but they aren't what I'd call quality? I haven't seen them all.
They are notoriously difficult to disassemble and assemble, hourly rate for replacing the fuel line would probably constitute a new saw for cost.
Replacing or removing the fuel tank can cause many repairmen to start praying to dark primal gods.
Patience is required.

oh oh, I'm gonna need parts...

 

[flatsfisher]

well, I guess this one was a bad decision. just a lot of parts needed. piston and cylinder are bad. crank bearings noisy. unless someone has a piston and cylinder they want to sell at a good price.

 

[flatsfisher]

I see that Meteor makes a cylinder/piston kit. Italian made not chinese. hmm. must ponder..

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I see that Meteor makes a cylinder/piston kit. Italian made not chinese. hmm. must ponder..

I'd absolutely use a meteor, everything that I've got from them is top notch.
Don't get me wrong, the aftermarket cylinders from farmertech and such do look terrible but I'm running a Big Bore on my carb 441 and its no slouch, it just required alot of dremel work to make it decent.
Hell at 18.00$ I thought it was worth the risk. As I've stated thou premium rings for anything is a must . I'd even consider one of those titanium kits from Hyway .

 

[flatsfisher]

the meteor kits come with caber rings, wrist pin, wrist pin bearings, clips, base gasket. it looks likle their kits are out of stock at their website and at wolf creek. will need to check around. wish the 441 fuel tanks weren't an arm and a leg. mine is beat to hell.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Yes the tanks are a little bit pricey but they do come with fuel kits and some other stuff.

 

[flatsfisher]

what do you guys use to split the cases on these saws? none of my dirt bike splitters seem to want to work on this. I read the service manual, but I don't have the specialized Stihl brand tools they reference.

 

[maulhead]

Either of these, is what I use. I like the husky one a little more.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2655102781...5MQB2VAmyBLjCG9tP2hh+kBBmx|tkp:Bk9SR7ix_a3qYA
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3936933626...VqEPew+JbilPvyor/CSdLiX30=|tkp:Bk9SR6yLhK7qYA

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thats what I used.

 

[flatsfisher]

do they work together? one says it's a splitter mounting tool.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

do they work together? one says it's a splitter mounting tool.

So ones a husqvarna tool and the other a stihl. You can push the crank out the flywheel side with the husqvarna tool the attach the stihl tool to the bar studs and push the crank free from that side.( thats how I did it. )
There's no knock off for the flywheel side case for stihls tool and it was several hundred dollars as I was informed by my dealer.
The stihl tool will also draw the crank back into the case on the pto/clutch side.

 

[flatsfisher]

got it. just watched a video on both of these tools. per the service manual for stihl the flywheel side tool is a disc with a bunch of screw holes. that's a lot of tools.

thanks guys!