Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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.274 gain full copper Barnes TSSX .338 cal. bullet conservative 120 gr. IMR 7828 slow burning powder . Weatherby full length casings . Federal .215 primers . Ballistics as previously advised Tex . My current 30cal. 30-.378 is much quicker (3250 fps. Ballistic round ) with Hornaday 240 Grain Nozler Bowtails. However does not deliver the hydrostatic shock benefits of the .338 .270 gr. Copper .@ ranges of up to 300 yds downfield for moose in the Barnes TSX Line up on the Vanguard . The Mark V was bought for Alberta Mountain Ram Trophy hunt 500 yard Ranges , perhaps next yr. if everthing fallbinplace with the Out-fitter & Guide .
Here’s a nice ram walked right in front of me in Glacier NP .
 

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Got the last white pine down yesterday between storms yesterday and just need to do the final cleanup.
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My buddy I'm doing the trees for has a little splitting to do, when I head back up everything from this tree will get added to it and the 4 rounds from the stumps/flush cutting the last two stumps. I also have a few maple limbs that are a bit larger that I'll be "pruning", the bucking and adding to the little hardwood pile I made.
And I dropped three nice logs out of this one to my Sawyer buddy to make some nice boards out of, hope he can get a couple nice boards out of them lol.

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Could you expound on those stump cuts? I can't figure them out.
 
Could you expound on those stump cuts? I can't figure them out.
Standard open face notch, then a bore cut to set the hinge, then a step down for the back cut, aka the "step cut". This leaves holding wood between the bore cut and the back cut which keeps the tree from going on its own, the more distance between the bore and the back cut the more holding power and the more you will have to pull in order to get the tree to come over. This is only to be used with equipment capable of breaking the holding wood.
I use it on back or side leaners with the skidding winch on my tractor. You can see how much back lean was on this one in the second video.

Many use a similar technique to fall leaders, notch, bore to set the hinge, then cut out to where a small portion of the back is left(strap/trigger), then cut just below the bore cut.
 
In my high school class of around 200, I think there were five or six Steve’s, three of which were Steve K. And two of the Steve K’s were of Finnish descent so they sounded similar lol.

Sounds about right. My mom is 100% Finnish and her maiden name starts with a K. My grandma's maiden name also started with a K. Mom was born in Minneapolis.
 
Stacked Mondays splits and split up another pile of you guessed it, elm. Where every split is a full stroke!
Rifle calibers are like chainsaws. You get reading and next thing you know you think you need the latest and greatest .375-250 colonel weatherford creedwell Magnum.. lol. Won't kill a deer any deader that anything else. I remember being convinced I needed a field gun and invested in a Savage in 25-06. That gun was definitely a sweet tool and it was fun busting milk jugs at 350 yards. Found out unless I was using a bench, I couldn't hit much past 100 off hand. I suspect others are as skilled. Ended up grabbing the shorter and lighter model 94 in 30-30 more often than not as there are few benches in the woods.

IMG_20220921_181832.jpgIMG_20220921_182843.jpg
 
Standard open face notch, then a bore cut to set the hinge, then a step down for the back cut, aka the "step cut". This leaves holding wood between the bore cut and the back cut which keeps the tree from going on its own, the more distance between the bore and the back cut the more holding power and the more you will have to pull in order to get the tree to come over. This is only to be used with equipment capable of breaking the holding wood.
I use it on back or side leaners with the skidding winch on my tractor. You can see how much back lean was on this one in the second video.

Many use a similar technique to fall leaders, notch, bore to set the hinge, then cut out to where a small portion of the back is left(strap/trigger), then cut just below the bore cut.

Great post and thanks for the edumucation !
 
I got just a little bit of oak firewood today. I've been meaning to remove this spindly little oak next to my deck for awhile, I just haven't bothered to get at it. It had a hard side lean over the deck and I thought I was going to throw a rope in it.

If it was on a job, I would've still thrown a rope in it, or pushed it with equipment...but since it's my deck and it needs to be replaced, I just sent it with a swing dutchman. It's not on a 40" spruce like Kodiak's doing, but is impressive when it works on a hardwood. I wouldn't do it on one of the mature oaks, but it works on a young, hingey tree.

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I said it was small lol... it was leaning towards the overturned pot, with an arch that would've tagged the deck had I gone downhill.
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As soon as I finished piling the brush...it started raining...sunny to downpours within 5 minutes.
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Here’s a nice ram walked right in front of me in Glacier NP .
A group of four of us was on a 7 day backpacking trip in Glacier. Toward the end, we were all getting tired of freeze dried food. a young doe walked into camp one evening. We all joked we should surround it and use our knives ..lol Meat would have tasted real good about then.
 
I don't know what kind of rifles/calibers you guys think you need, one for woods, one for open fields ect., but mine works everywhere and I have no problem hitting what I want out to my personal limit in range.

I shot a coyote at over 300 yards with it, and a moose at just over 100 yards, and two bucks with it last fall at under 100 yards, it just keeps on keeping on!

Interior-Moose-Hunt.jpg


SR
I totally respect a one rifle man but that just won’t ever be me.

If I was hunting out west, up in Canada, or Alaska it would warrant a powerful rifle because there’s always the chance of tangling with a big mean bear. Not so much here.

I’ve got great grandpa’s rifle, dad’s rifle, rifles from friends who’ve passed on, carbines, long range rifles, hog rifle with night scope, kids rifles, varmint rifles, lever rifles for stalking, extra bolt action rifles, and so on.

Certainly one rifle can do it all, but a handful of them can do it better. Just like we all have multi saw plans.
 
Actually, the easy fix (if you have an early gun) is to just replace the trigger assembly with a BX trigger, and reduce your trigger pull from 6 to 2.5 lbs in the process (and save the old trigger assembly for originality). The gun shoots much better with the new trigger.

My 10/22 seems to like Winchester HPs better than any other ammo I have tried.
This is not about shooting the rifle but changing out the mag easily. My rifle likes any hi velocity ammo. It loves CCI hollowpoints. A lighter trigger would be nice. My H&R M12 trainer has a light trigger on it.
 
I totally respect a one rifle man but that just won’t ever be me.

If I was hunting out west, up in Canada, or Alaska it would warrant a powerful rifle because there’s always the chance of tangling with a big mean bear. Not so much here.

I’ve got great grandpa’s rifle, dad’s rifle, rifles from friends who’ve passed on, carbines, long range rifles, hog rifle with night scope, kids rifles, varmint rifles, lever rifles for stalking, extra bolt action rifles, and so on.

Certainly one rifle can do it all, but a handful of them can do it better. Just like we all have multi saw plans.
I agree , like every entertainment based recreational activity , variety is preferred . My old 300 Savage would have been a all around caliber & being a carbine was an effective rifle for short & medium range & species hunting . 2nd choice would be my Remington 742 Woodsmaster in either .308 or 30:06 would again cover pretty well any North American game . However my other gun & rifle collection has given yrs of pleasurable recreation & sporting target & hunting experiences over my 68 yrs . Planning on a few more memories with friends & family in the field !
 
I totally respect a one rifle man but that just won’t ever be me.

If I was hunting out west, up in Canada, or Alaska it would warrant a powerful rifle because there’s always the chance of tangling with a big mean bear. Not so much here.

I’ve got great grandpa’s rifle, dad’s rifle, rifles from friends who’ve passed on, carbines, long range rifles, hog rifle with night scope, kids rifles, varmint rifles, lever rifles for stalking, extra bolt action rifles, and so on.

Certainly one rifle can do it all, but a handful of them can do it better. Just like we all have multi saw plans.
Well, I never said I only have one, and I never said I only use one. Did you already forget about my .338-06 I posted about earlier?? lol

In fact, I did shoot two bucks last fall with my 7 Express Remington, but neither are my "go to gun"....

SR
 
I don't know what kind of rifles/calibers you guys think you need, one for woods, one for open fields ect., but mine works everywhere and I have no problem hitting what I want out to my personal limit in range.

I shot a coyote at over 300 yards with it, and a moose at just over 100 yards, and two bucks with it last fall at under 100 yards, it just keeps on keeping on!

Interior-Moose-Hunt.jpg


SR
Nice moose!👍

I definitely enjoy shooting all types of firearms! Different arms for different types of shooting. I try to shoot at least two or three times a week. As far as hunting goes? I have two primary hunting rifles. Sometimes it's my 06. Other times its my .338WM. Just all depends on where and what I'm hunting. I also enjoy collecting firearms as well! 👍To each his own! 😉
 
Standard open face notch, then a bore cut to set the hinge, then a step down for the back cut, aka the "step cut". This leaves holding wood between the bore cut and the back cut which keeps the tree from going on its own, the more distance between the bore and the back cut the more holding power and the more you will have to pull in order to get the tree to come over. This is only to be used with equipment capable of breaking the holding wood.
I use it on back or side leaners with the skidding winch on my tractor. You can see how much back lean was on this one in the second video.

Many use a similar technique to fall leaders, notch, bore to set the hinge, then cut out to where a small portion of the back is left(strap/trigger), then cut just below the bore cut.


Thank you. I recognized the bore cut but didn't know why the low back cut.
 

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