I've heard this before and don't doubt you. All I can say is, there was obviously different methods used at the time. Or perhaps better surface prep from one manufacturer to the next. I've read of Porsche experimenting with hot dipping in the 1970's but wasn't common practice until sometime later.
mixing ratios for 2 stroke chainsaws
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camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
Fox body mustangs were actually galvanized and still rusted out. Road salt mixed into slush and brine puddles don’t help.Steel can be galvanized easy enough to withstand decades of corrosion. It's just not cost efficient. (Most) people would rather spend $20k for a "luxury" package, so that's what the masses get instead of a vehicle that will actually last. Planned obsolescence.
Volkswagen actually tried to get it right more so than anyone here in N.A. did. Double sided zinc plated panels. Copper Nickel brake lines. I've seen many 20 year old VW/Audis around here with original brake lines looking much better than other manufacturers half their age.
BUT they get failing marks on so many of the mechanicals and is understandable why people that don't live in the land of cancer overlook them.
It's all a trade off.
For a better perception of my environment, Fluid Film performed a 5 year study at my counties ODOT garage. We're a perfect storm of heavy Lake Effect snow (100"+ per year avg), high year round humidity, and winter temps that are conducive to accelerated corrosion.
I'd gladly give up most all of the amenities in modern vehicles for something that could just hold up for 25 years with minimal structural maintenance. But that's not what most people want .
As it is, I easily spend 10-12 hours and $100 per vehicle annually on rust prevention.....all to eventually lose anyhow. That might not sound like alot....multiply by 4 (vehicles) and one maybe starts to appreciate the effort. Most won't put this effort into one let alone 4. It's a real investment both physically and financially in long term ownership here. There's no alternatives unless one wishes to have a car payment for life.
OK! Today's crying session complete!
Again, it's all in the process. Galvanized (structural) steel can look good with minimal corrosion for decades if done properly. I see it all the time living on the Great Lakes.
If welds aren't properly treated that will be the first place to rust. If the back sides of panels or the insides of rockers weren't thoroughly coated they'll rot from the inside out. From my experiences dealing with American cars made in the 80's and 90's if they were galvanized it was either in limited capacity or their practices were poor.
If welds aren't properly treated that will be the first place to rust. If the back sides of panels or the insides of rockers weren't thoroughly coated they'll rot from the inside out. From my experiences dealing with American cars made in the 80's and 90's if they were galvanized it was either in limited capacity or their practices were poor.
Galvanizing doesn't stand up to salt exposure very well.
And where I use to live sometimes had 8 months of salt use. Not to mention the salt that come south of the road when it rains in the spring.
US -41 in Marquette County, MI is one of the most heavily salted roads in the country and during the winter it looks like Bonneville when the sun pops out and drys the road. No coating will help with that amount of exposure.
I have seen exhaust ports so plugged that the exhaust path was no bigger than the diameter of a #2 pencil. The old bright stock base oils and certainly automotive oils will do this readily under the right circumstances. It doesn't happen fast, but builds up over time.
No, I am not. I am assuming that thew engineers who design equipment for a living, and the oil company engineers, know more about the subject than the end users do.
All you have is ad-hominem attacks. It sounds to me as though you are jealous of engineers. Your later posts reinforce that. And while I agree that more data points would be better, I stated that the suggested tests would be a MINIMUM. What part of that don't you understand? I have no need to tell you which discipline my degree is in, as it is irrelevant. All engineers know how to conduct experiments and analyze data. You used the term "allegedly" about my engineering degree as though you doubt I have one. I would bet you serious money that I could prove it except I would get kicked off the forum. Your ad-hominem attacks on people that conduct real tests and show real data makes you just like the liberal censors at FaceBook, TikTok, CNN, etc., who suppress views contrary to theirs.
That may be a valid nuance.
It still doesn't apply. As I've said, the engineer's and company's goals will be different than the end user's goals.
And the dead guy probably went to his grave thinking “that piece of junk won’t even turn the chain”
That MAY be true. However, at least for pro saws, it is in the manufacturers' best interest to make a product with high reliability, and that includes the oil recommendation, because pro users share their experiences, this forum being one example of where they do so. If a lot of people complained that their saws were wearing out quickly, that would hurt sales. Planned obsolescence may be the goal for consumer saws, but I doubt that would work for pro saws.
True.
Look at any hurricane flooded coastal building with metal studs after the drywall is taken down for insulation replacement.
camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
You have clearly never worked in Manufacturing... this just isn't how it works.
There is very often a disconnect between engineering, corporate and finance.
Hermio, yes I do have doubts you are an engineer. If only because what you have said and and the logic you are using.
True to a point, especially in the auto sector - but for no other reason than cost. Not the case elsewhere if the coating is properly specd' for the environment. Galvanized coatings are sacrificial in nature when subjected to chlorides. The more corrosive the environment the heavier the coating requirement. ASTM has performed extensive testing and concluded galv coatings can reasonably last several decades when applied properly and at the correct thickness.
The other problem with the auto industry is the end user. Most aren't willing to maintain their finish to the necessary degree. A stone chip or a scratch requires immediate attention. The grey/white coating underneath (zinc) may not rust right away but will when it wears down (again, a sacrificial barrier) and then you are fighting a losing battle.
Then there are the chips/poorly applied coating that you don't see and are screwed anyhow. BWalker is right in the aspect that galvanized coatings aren't the best solution for auto, but until they start producing vehicles out of materials that won't oxidise regardless it is the most cost efficient means available.
I've been using Wool wax on my vehicles for probably 15 years. Plus a good healthy wash using a mixture of baking soda /water solution through my pressure washer in the spring to neutralize the under carriage.
camel2019
ArboristSite Guru
My mustang goes in and gets drip less put on the under side and standard in the doors,rockers,quarter panels and other internal spaces not that I drive it in the winter. My trucks I do my self with a mix of bar oil and motor oil works well and doesn’t break the bank. I’m also a huge advocate of deep floor mats in the winter.
Must be why husky out of nowhere now recommends 32:1 in it's bigger cc pro saws I wonder why? is it due to so many premature failures? Husky recommending more oil is beneficial for a saws longevity has officially blown the minds of the 50:1 crowd lol
Personally, my suggestion was do what the manufacturer recommends . LOL
