KostasVolos
ArboristSite Operative
Hello,I'm running a small landscaping business,where
the main job is to clear brush (
like common myrtle ,kermes oak,erica/heather,ect) and
cut down small trees (like wild olive trees ,wild pear trees ,wild almond trees ,acacia species ,etc )around properties ,in order to make safety zones in case a wildfire breaks out.
The job needs lightweight and agile chainsaws.Many times ,
I literally "dive" or "climb" on fallen brush and branches in order to move forward and keep clearing the area.
Personally ,I use the Stihl MS180 as it is pretty robust ,very easy to clean and service ,it has more than the power needed for the job,while being lightweight and agile enough.
But most of all ,it has the right price !
It is used almost daily ,for seven hours per day ,six days per week .
Yes,pretty robust chainsaw ,
but with this kind of use ,it
usually lasts for couple of years.
Then they get beyond that point ,
where any attempts for further service and fixes begins to be the epitome of futility.
Anyway.
Before every new MS180 enters its
daily harsh duty ,there's a certain procedure that is followed by me almost religiously, and serves to modify the MS180,in order to live up to it's job :
1) Wrap two rolls of grippy and cushy "tennis racket handle" tape around the whole front handle of the chainsaw.
2) Lift the main jet lever ,inside the
metering side of the carburator,just a tiny bit above it's "limit" .
3) Open up muffler.
Drill extra holes or/and enlarge the existing ones and flex open the grill .
4) Install a NGK CMR6H spark plug.
5) Use the original Stihl HD air filter.Get rid of the one that comes with the saw.
6) Install an oil pump from the MS251.Now the MS180 can effectively lubricate bars and chains of over 14" length
( @ 3/8" LP 0.50 ) .That also
being the most expensive mod of all the rest.
7) Grease the choke lever case clip and case hole,as also the handle trigger and it's safety at their axle points with
silicone/PTFE grease.
I grease twice a year.Protects the
rubbing plastic parts from wear and smoothes their action by a lot .
8) Seal the opening at the case
(bar mount panel) which leads to
the oiler hose.I use a piece of hard foam ,which I press snugly inside the opening.That way wood debris can not accumulate inside the cavity and eventually push and pop the oiler hose out of its press-fit insert (towards the oil pump ,underneath the bottom side of front handle ) .
I usually run the MS180 with a
14" bar ,but there are cases that a
16" bar is used.
Bars are either Tsumura or Sugihara.
The Carlton N1C ( 3/8"lp 0.5 ) is
the preferred choice of chain.
A very durable semi-chisel one,
without any "anti-kickback" safety
features.And quite low priced ,too.
Mix oil used is the Amsoil Saber at 50:1.
Bar oil is either the Stihl SynthPlus or the OleoMac biodegradable .
Any further suggestions and or
advices are more than welcome !
the main job is to clear brush (
like common myrtle ,kermes oak,erica/heather,ect) and
cut down small trees (like wild olive trees ,wild pear trees ,wild almond trees ,acacia species ,etc )around properties ,in order to make safety zones in case a wildfire breaks out.
The job needs lightweight and agile chainsaws.Many times ,
I literally "dive" or "climb" on fallen brush and branches in order to move forward and keep clearing the area.
Personally ,I use the Stihl MS180 as it is pretty robust ,very easy to clean and service ,it has more than the power needed for the job,while being lightweight and agile enough.
But most of all ,it has the right price !
It is used almost daily ,for seven hours per day ,six days per week .
Yes,pretty robust chainsaw ,
but with this kind of use ,it
usually lasts for couple of years.
Then they get beyond that point ,
where any attempts for further service and fixes begins to be the epitome of futility.
Anyway.
Before every new MS180 enters its
daily harsh duty ,there's a certain procedure that is followed by me almost religiously, and serves to modify the MS180,in order to live up to it's job :
1) Wrap two rolls of grippy and cushy "tennis racket handle" tape around the whole front handle of the chainsaw.
2) Lift the main jet lever ,inside the
metering side of the carburator,just a tiny bit above it's "limit" .
3) Open up muffler.
Drill extra holes or/and enlarge the existing ones and flex open the grill .
4) Install a NGK CMR6H spark plug.
5) Use the original Stihl HD air filter.Get rid of the one that comes with the saw.
6) Install an oil pump from the MS251.Now the MS180 can effectively lubricate bars and chains of over 14" length
( @ 3/8" LP 0.50 ) .That also
being the most expensive mod of all the rest.
7) Grease the choke lever case clip and case hole,as also the handle trigger and it's safety at their axle points with
silicone/PTFE grease.
I grease twice a year.Protects the
rubbing plastic parts from wear and smoothes their action by a lot .
8) Seal the opening at the case
(bar mount panel) which leads to
the oiler hose.I use a piece of hard foam ,which I press snugly inside the opening.That way wood debris can not accumulate inside the cavity and eventually push and pop the oiler hose out of its press-fit insert (towards the oil pump ,underneath the bottom side of front handle ) .
I usually run the MS180 with a
14" bar ,but there are cases that a
16" bar is used.
Bars are either Tsumura or Sugihara.
The Carlton N1C ( 3/8"lp 0.5 ) is
the preferred choice of chain.
A very durable semi-chisel one,
without any "anti-kickback" safety
features.And quite low priced ,too.
Mix oil used is the Amsoil Saber at 50:1.
Bar oil is either the Stihl SynthPlus or the OleoMac biodegradable .
Any further suggestions and or
advices are more than welcome !
