Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Kodiak Kid said:
Roger! šŸ‘That is sound advice. Thanks bud.I was considering a skid steer. A loader never really crossed my mind, because when I think loader. I think 966 or 988 size machines. However, šŸ¤” I suppose a smaller sized wheel loader would do quite well actually!
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I know the feeling working in coal and stone mines for quite a few years. 988 were the "small" sized loaders in the stripens. But since I've stopped working heavy equipment I've found there are loads of nice little loaders out there if you look for them, some cheaper then a tractor or skid steer. I got to work on a boxer wheel loader at one time and just loved it. Skid steer quick attach plate, was just a tad bigger then my kubota, lift arms telescoped, and was just dead handy machine. Picked a lot of weight.
JimR said:
Wheel weights are too far forward. Hanging a weight or attachment off the back is a much better idea.
Click to expand...
Actually this is a common misconception, nearly all tractor manufacturers reccomeded rear tire ballast and 3point counterweight when a loader is added to the machine.
SimonHS said:
Would one of these be helpful? Cordless and it will pull water from a bucket, tank, pond or even a large soda bottle.

Click to expand...

I'm sure it would be, but it would just be one more thing to drag around with you.
GeeVee said:
No mistake, if you only got the one (at the moment) then the tractor was the right call. ESPECIALLY since you fabbed up your own loader. Skiddyboppers dont mow...... EVERY attachment is super expensive. Did I mention they dont mow? Now for sure, if you budget for a skiddy- you dont need the 8k # 72" bucket. My RC 30 is 3000#, and I can lift and move 1000#, which is plenty, and I get a half a yard of dirt in the bucket, yet is only 48" wide. The root rake/grapple is just fine for moving brush and debris larger than it is. Earth work can be done as well as any machine twice its size, maybe not as fast, but certainly much more delicately, which sometimes is a real bonus- not tearing up more than you need to. If I luck into a 3pt Bush hog deck, I may try to make my own front cutter with a double or triple sheave belt and a Hydro wheel motor from a ZTR, but its a low priority on "projects".

You could look out for a rental with 5-800 hours on them, the major chain rentals have to be moved out of the fleets to keep the customers in the newest models, per the purchase agreements with the manufacturers. Watch when the big fleets start sending them, and negotiate hard, rationalizing they have a lot to move, and you're stadning there with X much cash in hand- the fleet is costing them money sitting there, the new floorplan is costing them money, sooner they cut it loose, the better, thought they WILL try and tell you they can't sell it lower, they can. While some will say rental take a beating, they are also maintained well, and certain warranty is applicable to the rental fleet owner- they are required to keep them up, by the manufacturer, so its not as big a risk as one might think.
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You can get mowers for skidloaders. But yeah not that I'd want to mow my grass with one. I could have gotten a small one but my yard being a swamp and skid loaders skidding to turn and a tractor doesn't tear the yard up so bad. Seemed to make sense, especially since I got the tractor so cheap.
Good point about the rental equipment. Everything is for sale and gets swapped out evey few years from the bigger yards.
 
tfp said:
I opened up the deflector and re-shaped the plastic so nothing melted. I need to keep mine screened so I think i'll order another muffler and braze another screened exit to it at a later stage when I have the time to do it nicely. I worry about some of the muffler mods i've seen that protrude outside the plastic... looks like a good way to melt holes in your chaps when it's clipped to your harness. It's cutting very well with this and the 1/4 conversion, and doesn't bog on a full width cut. I've still got it set a little bit rich (according to spark plug) but I find it very hard to hear this one 4 stroke compared to a larger saw so I erred on the side of caution.
View attachment 1035734
Click to expand...

Did you open up the outlet? I usually split the mufflers, but they're a PITA to weld back together...I've got another 2511 coming in for work, and I might just open up the outlet and attack whatever I can get from the inner doohickey thing w/o splitting it.

This one doesn't have a screen, but I've since been doing screens.(I just order the mesh from McMaster-Carr in bulk.) I just bend a new deflector using sheet metal, it's more open and doesn't melt anything.
20220130_114115.jpg.5cd37801adbdb3f52423393898171855.jpg

20220130_140101.jpg.9ea73c69a73ccd8c323cc48a66885b34.jpg
20220130_141634.jpg.6f569515f6a1576f5b6fde733db80727.jpg
 
Sierra_rider said:
Did you open up the outlet? I usually split the mufflers, but they're a PITA to weld back together...I've got another 2511 coming in for work, and I might just open up the outlet and attack whatever I can get from the inner doohickey thing w/o splitting it.

This one doesn't have a screen, but I've since been doing screens.(I just order the mesh from McMaster-Carr in bulk.) I just bend a new deflector using sheet metal, it's more open and doesn't melt anything.
20220130_114115.jpg.5cd37801adbdb3f52423393898171855.jpg

20220130_140101.jpg.9ea73c69a73ccd8c323cc48a66885b34.jpg
20220130_141634.jpg.6f569515f6a1576f5b6fde733db80727.jpg
Click to expand...
Hot rod tiny saw. :yes:
 
sean donato said:
Its not the logs that are the issue when your home. Its when your out on a job, or in the woods that the mud becomes an issue. Plunge cuts, shaving the bark off stiff brush ect all help, but not like a garden hose or pressure washer.
Click to expand...
I MUCH prefer high volume, over high pressure!

IMG-0365-S.jpg


Works really GREAT for cleaning tracks too!

Case-450-Tim-Washing-Tracks.jpg


SR
 
Since a couple of us were talking 2511s earlier, the one on the left just came into the shop. I'm going to make it run like my personal saw on the right and in the vid...the plan is to sacrifice a little rpm compared to mine, in exchange for stall resistance/torque, but still pretty similar build. I've done a couple of these so far, these are a fun saw to hop up, as the results are night/day.
IMG_20221128_174455805_HDR.jpg

 
sean donato said:
Actually this is a common misconception, nearly all tractor manufacturers reccomeded rear tire ballast and 3point counterweight when a loader is added to the machine.
Click to expand...
The problem with loaded tires is that it can make a real mess out in nice fields if you mow them. My 5000 pound tractor with unloaded tires just does a great job without ruining the fields. If I had loaded tires I would be making some serious ruts in my lower field. If I am moving 330 gallon totes of hardwood I need to hang a mower off the back end or I will lift the rear wheels right off the ground. In my case I can't have loaded tires. On the tractor forums I have seen posts about using heavy rear 3pth weights versus loaded tires. I could never run loaded tires up on the side of my hill when the ground is wet. It would be rut city up there. As it is now I can rut it up with no weights at all. Putting in crushed stone on these roads would be way too expensive.
 

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