Chains, chains, everywhere...

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TreeClimber57

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
2,908
Reaction score
802
Location
Midland, Ontario, Canada
Ok, likely been hashed out before on here :) But lets give it another round.

I have used almost 100% Stihl bars and chains for over 30 years now.. a couple of times Oregon chains.

But.. what are the best chains and bars.. how do they compare.. and why is one better than other.

Now any discussion is good.. however for my own purposes the bars I now own are: 14" on 200T and 330, 20" 290 and 260, 28" on 441 and 28"/36" on 660. (Gee not sure what my HT-131 is off top of head)

Are some better for short bars and others for long.. ?? Always wondered, even though I keep going back to my trusty Stihl dealer.

:chainsaw:
 
Last edited:
Stihl chain all the way.

Bars:

Cannon longer than 42.

ES next best on middle lengths where possible.

Oregon PMP okay for the money where I have to.
 
Last edited:
Opinion:

IMHO Stihl makes the best chain. It is also the most expensive....
Oregon would be number two, softer steel but good quality control.

The Stilh bar is pretty good, but I prefer my windsor speed tip.
 
On 460 28" Setting:

I like:

Bar: WoodlandPro (Cannon)
Chain: Stihl 33RS

Noko
 
For bars 28-36" try the Oregon reduced weight bar amazing how light your saw will feel. They are kinda flexible tho with the aluminum insert. Cannon bars are nice but heavy. I run only Stihl chain.
 
As far as I'm concerned all Pro type solid bars (non Chinese of course!) are good value. The highest quality bars I've ever seen are the Carlton/Tsumura bars made in Japan. Their nose sprocket bearings are like silk. Aussie made GB Pro Tops are also excellent bars - their nose sprockets always seem like they've had a handful of sand thrown in them but I've never had one fail. Also make sure that any of the GB bars you buy from now on are the older Australian made stock apart from harvester bars (also don't assume that GB chain is rebadged Carlton - its not anymore) - All I'll ask is which country has started making all sorts of stuff for cheap prices with less than average quality? I'll leave it at that ;) The only nose sprocket I've ever had fail was on a Oregon Power Match Plus bar but that wasn't the bar's fault.
Pro type bars that I've used and never had any problems with are;

GB (Aussie Made)
Carlton/Tsumura (Jap Made)
Carlton (German Made)
Oregon (Canadian Made)

There are also a number of bars also made by GB/Oregon that are rebadged as Stihl, Husky, etc etc. I've used Husky bars made by both GB (20") and Oregon (42").

I've never used any of the non GB made Stihl bars but am sure they're as good as anything on the market.

All good quality chain is worthwhile but I personally use Carlton or Windsor. Both excellent brands and good value. I'll cop some flak from the Stihl brigade (once again :)) but I've never had any real success with Stihl chain. I recently bought some 3/8" RSC when in Tasmania cutting trees and honestly didn't like it. Out of the box I found the Windsor full chisel loops I had flogged it for speed and lasted longer too. I felt as thought the RSC had to be "forced" to cut until I reground it at 10° (file guide angle - Stihl recommend 0°) and lowered the depth guages a tad. However it certainly is the smoothest chain I've ever cut with if you don't like vibration.
I have also used the Oregon LGX in green wood and found its a good chain as far as full chisel goes too. Unfortunately I cut too much dirty hardwood to use full chisel as a rule so mainly use semi chisel.
I must add though that despite my criticism of Stihl RSC too many people on this site swear by it for it to be a bad chain. I've just found that all the Stihl chain I've used doesn't wear anywhere near as well as Carlton or Windsor which I've also had a fair bit more experience with.

Sorry about the long post - got a tad carried away ;)
 
Last edited:
Are you sure that was the RSC and not the RSC3? I have found there is a HUGE difference in performance between the two. While the RSC3 is smooth as silk, it is much heavier, and does not cut as fast.
 
Are you sure that was the RSC and not the RSC3? I have found there is a HUGE difference in performance between the two. While the RSC3 is smooth as silk, it is much heavier, and does not cut as fast.

I asked for it in .050" for the 5100-S and the dealer made me a loop straight from a brand new 25' roll. Pretty sure it was the RSC and made in Switzerland from memory. RSC is what I asked for though.
What you said about RSC3 makes sense though although I'm not familiar with Stihl chain codes at all.
 
No worries, all good input and thanks. :cheers:
+1
MCW, that was a great post. I have a GB made Calrton bar and love it. It has gone through one chain and has very little wear. The sprocket on mine seems much more smooth than the Oregons I have. I recently got a Tsumura (Total Superbar) and it seems really well made.
As far as chain goes, I've had good luck with Stihl RS and Oregon's LGX. LGX is smoother than old RS but about even with RSC. If you shop around, you can find some good deals on LGX-about $3 cheaper per loop.
 
Right now I am running GB Pro Tops and the stock oregon bars that came with Huskys. I am going to buy some carltons bars from baileys soon. I really like to GB's over the oregon bars. On my 455 rancher, the stock bar is pretty soft, but it is a home owner low grade bar. As for chain, I use woodland pro and stihl. The stihl chain is super hard and long lasting. It is also pretty pricey stuff. The woodland pro is good stuff, but its a bit softer. But the lower cost off sets it being softer and not lasting as long.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top