More oil in the mix?

How many of you run more oil in your mix than the manual calls for? Since my 346 died, I've been wondering if a little more engine lube in the mix might prolong the life of the saw.

Ian

Half do, half don't. The line is down the middle. If the search feature is working, search for "oil mix," or "ratio" and you'll get so much reading you won't know what to do with it all. This gets brought up every few weeks.

Jeff

I put 1.8 gallons of 93 in with a 2 gallon bottle of oil. No Ill effects.

40:1

the book calls for 50:1 ratio for my jonsered but i run it 40:1.had trouble with another saw when the dealer said it was alright to run it same as my bushcutter at 50:1.bushcutter still works saw does not.

I was trying 40:1 for a while and now I'm back to running 50:1. You can always adjust the carb to run richer.
Mark

My old metal gas can only holds 2 gallons so it comes out around 45:1
I'm just to cheap to go buy a plastic gas can when there's nothing wrong with the one I have.

Ed

I just made the switch to 40:1 - none ran through a saw yet, but hasn't seemed to negatively affect my Ryobi FS36 all summer. I realize I should retune for the new mix, just haven't done so (I try not to cut wood in the heat of summer, bugs, snakes, sweat, better things to do...). It's starting to cool off, I should get my stuff out and ready to rock.

32:1

Saw manufactures recomend 50:1 because they like selling saw's. If you run oil rich, you will plug up your exhaust screen but thats is easier and cheaper than a cylinder kit.

Engine life - For ordinary chainsaw use setting the carb MIXTURE correctly is much more important that minor tweaks to the oil/fuel ratio.

Run it at the Manf. recommend ratios, and keep your carb slightly rich (i.e. stay away from the edge...).

I run all my two cycle stuff at 32:1, except my boat which has oil injection, that I have adjusted to run 50:1 and my snowmobile that has injection and came from the factory running at 20:1.
Oil is cheap and this non sense about carbon buildup is a bunch of bunk. My snowmobile which runs at 20:1 has never fouled a plug and I just replaced a set after two seasons. They looked great. Furthermore the rave valves(exhaust valves) are clean as well and do not really need to be cleaned, even though they get it yearly.
Just IMO, and IME.

bwalker said:

I run all my two cycle stuff at 32:1, except my boat which has oil injection, that I have adjusted to run 50:1 and my snowmobile that has injection and came from the factory running at 20:1.
Oil is cheap and this non sense about carbon buildup is a bunch of bunk. My snowmobile which runs at 20:1 has never fouled a plug and I just replaced a set after two seasons. They looked great. Furthermore the rave valves(exhaust valves) are clean as well and do not really need to be cleaned, even though they get it yearly.
Just IMO, and IME.

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Ben

Just something you might think is of interest,,,,,,,,

Years ago, 2cyl oil was just plain #30 weight oil, 16 : 1 and you had to shake the hell out of it to make it mix, and it separated quickly.

The first snowmobiles had pet-cogs at the bottom of the crankcase(some, not all) when they would get real temprimental, you needed to open the pet-cogs and drain the collected oil out. It would surprise you how much would come out sometimes. Oil sure came a long way since I have been tugging on starter ropes!

I run either 16:1 or 24:1 in everything I own. I figure too much oil, Ill have to clean the plug every once in a while, maybe clean a muffler screen..but its alot cheaper and easier to to do that, than toss an old burnt up saw, or rebuild one.

40:1 semi- or full-synthetic. Seems like a safe middle-ground to me.

I'm using Stihl brand oil but it doesn't say whether it's conventional or synthetic. Neither did the Wally World Super Tech house brand oil that I used to use. How do you know what brands are what?

Ian

bwalker said:

I run all my two cycle stuff at 32:1, except my boat which has oil injection,
Just IMO, and IME.

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Ben, Just a head up, dont trust that oil injection pump on the boat. Premixing would have saved a $1000. They dont warn you when they stop getting oil.

Haywire Haywood said:

I'm using Stihl brand oil but it doesn't say whether it's conventional or synthetic. Neither did the Wally World Super Tech house brand oil that I used to use. How do you know what brands are what?

Ian

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Stihl dose have a synthetic, but it would be labeled that way.

Synthetics are a little more expensive, so it would behove them to label it as such.

AHA.... I have (and the dealer only stocks) the conventional stuff.

2-Cycle Engine Oil

STIHL High Performance 2-cycle Engine Oil

STIHL High Performance 2-cycle oils are premium-quality, conventional petroleum based engine oils designed to deliver the highest levels of engine protection in modern, high-performance, air-cooled 2-cycle engines. They contain a pour depressant to aid in low temperature applications and a mixing agent (solvent) to aid in mixing with gasoline.

STIHL High Performance Super Engine Oil

STIHL High Performance Super Engine Oil is a synthetic blend 2-cycle engine oil that has all the features and benefits of High-Performance oil, but with reduced smoke in the exhaust. It provides superior bearing and piston lubrication at high temperatures, protects against piston scuffing and seizure, and keeps rings and ports free of carbon build-up.

STIHL High Performance Ultra Engine Oil

STIHL High Performance Ultra Oil is a fully synthetic 2-stroke engine oil specially suited for high performance chain saws and power tools. Outstanding engine cleaning, plus "ultra" superior lubricity in comparison to other oils. This oil is ester based and ash-less additives help reduce carbon deposits which improves overall engine cleanliness.

ShoerFast said:

Ben

Just something you might think is of interest,,,,,,,,

Years ago, 2cyl oil was just plain #30 weight oil, 16 : 1 and you had to shake the hell out of it to make it mix, and it separated quickly.

The first snowmobiles had pet-cogs at the bottom of the crankcase(some, not all) when they would get real temprimental, you needed to open the pet-cogs and drain the collected oil out. It would surprise you how much would come out sometimes. Oil sure came a long way since I have been tugging on starter ropes!

Click to expand...

I have seen engines with such drains, but I always thought they where to drain fuel in the event of a stuck carb float.
Todays two stroke specific oils are much differant than the 30-40w auto oils that where reccomended back in the day.
Some of you would be shocked at how clean a kart engine ran at 16:1 on a modern oil looks.\
Romeo, my outboard is a Yamaha and I havent figured out a way to disconnect the oil pump properly. A plate would have to be fabricated and such. I may just leave the pump on, but disconnect the linkage going to it and pre-mix the fuel.

Klotz

I just bought Klotz 2 stroke racing synthetic, 80% Techniplate with 20% Benol racing castor. I was going to switch to 32-1 from my norm of 40-1. What will that do to my carb set ups? If I didnt change the carb set ups for sometime, will they run richer or leaner with 32-1 and no carb adjustments from my 40-1 set up?

romeo said:

Ben, Just a head up, dont trust that oil injection pump on the boat. Premixing would have saved a $1000. They dont warn you when they stop getting oil.

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I agree. Those ATV's and Sea Doos that have oil injection are ticking time bombs. Ive personally seen a handfull of well maintained jet Skis that burnt up new Rotax engines due toi failed pumps.

Easiest thing I do on one, is first, disconnect the oil injector, if it is part of the fuel pump, just ignore it. Premix, its a safe way to be sure you are getting lubed up.

See, there is no warnign when they stop pumping. If you run LOW there is a light, or a buzzer, but you can have a full tank of oil, and if it aint pumping, you blissfully cook a nice engine.