synthetic oil

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what oil for you and your saw and why?

  • mobil mx2t

    Votes: 3 10.7%
  • echo, stihl, husky

    Votes: 24 85.7%
  • supertech

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • whatever

    Votes: 1 3.6%

  • Total voters
    28

tundraotto

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ok guys:

i figured this would be an appropriate subject - now that we have had almost 2 years of discussion and arguments about synthetic vs. mineral oils. -who has had a stuck piston (on equipment run on synthetic only) or bearing failure on a SAW? and how many of you have had an engine "become one" so to speak on mineral oil? obviously im very partial as i awoke to the advantages of synthetic oils after i saw the facts on paper and later in automotive/bike use. I would love to see some real (saw) world experiences of these oils?

PS. fish - spare us the llama stories......:eek:
 
I have been running synthetic in my own personal saws.... I had a case of Belray MC-1 left over from my motocross days and the stuff is exceptional and has very little (if any) oil passthru (if thats a term)...

what ever you do- don't do what this guy did on his 3120 Husky...
<img src=http://home.insightbb.com/~ss/3120-2.jpg>
heres another shot
<img src=http://home.insightbb.com/~ss/3120-3.jpg>

BTW thats a 2 ring husky too...

[email protected]
 
jsikkema1 - nice pics - poor lubrication is THE death sentence to an engine - even more so to a two stroke - i did see however that you picked the oils that were semi synthetic..why? i know im a stubborn arguer to a T, but why wouldnt these gains be maximized by a fully synthetic 2-stroke oil? (i dont work for mobil yet). just looking for some more great inputs.

PS. fish - llamas dont run good on fully synthetic - they perform much better on a mineral blend
:cool:
 
I don't have a clue what the guy did with that 3120- just said that he wanted it fixed... ????

<p>I think the Belray MC-1 is a full synthetic oil...&nbsp; you can see some
info here...</p>
<p><a href="http://www.belray.com/consumer/productpages/mc1.html">BELRAY MC-1</a></p>
<p>[email protected]</p>

</body>

</html>
 
i did always believe that oils with a temperature range from (air to liquid cooled) were not specifically suited to one application. Belray is a known name but i have some queries in regards to its "no ash content" - i thought that "ashless oils" have a low ability of high temperature lubrication in general....could be wrong but would love to find out :alien:
 
Well, I guess that somone has to be the dissenting opinion here, so here goes, BTW, good to see you Jeff and Otto, thought you guys may have been gone for good. I have only used Husky oil for the last 7 or 8 years, and I haven`t seen any failure of any kind. Before that it was Echo or Stihl oil and I wouldn`t have any qualms about either of them now, just kind of hooked into a Husky deal now. I`m kind of a hardheaded jerk, so although I do regular cleaning and maintenance I also like to run the a** off of my saws, no babying them, and I haven`t been disappointed in performance or longevity. Maybe I don`t know what I`m missing. I have switched to a 40:1 ratio leaning toward the advice of KD but I`m not really sure why because like I said, never been any lube problem yet. Russ
 
Oh, BTW....

I had converted that 3120 of mine to diesel. Thing is, I was cutting last winter and the fuel gelled up, and well, I guess I got a little carried away with the Kero I threw in. I guess it doesn`t lubricate in the same way when cut:(
 
My saw is by Ken right now. I have to bottles of Maxima K2 sitting in my garage waiting for my saw to return.
Makes sense to me. My saw even smelled hot,(too hot) when I ran it.

Steve
088
025
 
- i thought that "ashless oils" have a low ability of high temperature lubrication in general....could be wrong but
In not that ashless oil have low lubricateing ability its the fact that there detergent dispersant additives do not work well over 300 degrees, which is a temp that is pretty easy to reach with a aircooled saw. For ring belt temps over 300 a mettalic organic additives are needed. Thats where the ash comes from. Ash is basically a measure of how much mettallic organic additives is in a formulation. BTW I have never used belray products, but I have heard that they are not highly regarded by people in the motorcycle biz. That could be a bunch of crap though.
 
Use Husky, Stihl or Ecgo oil, figure they make the saws, they know whay works but after reading quite a bit here I'm intrigued by the synthetics and may give one a try
 
Use Stihl Black label

Couple of guys on this forum atated it has to have some synthetic qualities in order to acheive the rating specifications on the label. The oil for $30 a gallon at the local shop.
 
Otto, Are you aware that mx2t is not a real synthetic, atleast in the traditional sense. If you look at the msds on the Mobil site you will see that it is a severly hydrotreated mineral oil. It a good oil non the less. I use it in my bikes with excellant results.
 
I've been using Maxima 927 for a while now because Ken recommended it to me. I run a 32:1 mix. It is 50% synthetic and 50% castor bean. I see that the K2 is 100% synthetic. K2 is only slightly more expensive than 927, so I can't see where price would really be the determining factor in a choice between the two. Anyone know why one over the other?
 
Anyone know why one over the other?
The k2 will equal 927 interms of protection, but will burn much cleaner. 927 isnt too bad from a piston and head deposit standpoint, but it will really gum up your muffler. K2 will not do this because it is a polyol ester base instead of 927 castor/ester blend.
 
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