Bar Sprocket Greasing

I have always used Stihl which requires no greasing.
(I think it's somehow enclosed sealed??)
Just bought a Husky 455 Rancher and manual says to grease
at every tank filling.
Question is: Do you "pros" do that or just a squirt of oil..or maybe
you don't do it at all. Just seems like oil or grease would attract grime.
Also seems like greasing every tank filling is sorta "overkill"??
I apologize for such a novice question..but that's what I am.
Thank for any replies....J2F

Out of the seven saws I use on a regular basis I have one that I grease because the tip just felt "dry". All the others never see grease. I've never, ever lost a tip. The Amish chain saw shops around here hold to the rule that if you never start greasing you'll never have to grease. Not sure if that's correct but the short answer is; "no, I never grease."
Regards,
Phil

Necessary or not, I grease the tip all the time. I even give those small tip grease guns to my friends for their saws. I just like that squishy sound the grease makes when it forces it's way out.

Never. When I was new and the saws were Homelite & Mac & thumb pump oilers we did. A good saw with the auto oiler should get enough
but I could be wrong!

I keep my Husqvarna bars sprockets greased. I usually refresh them abotu every 4-5 tanks. The bars tip-cut MUCH better without heating the chain as much. (I know... tip cutting is "bad"... but it is necessary in bore cutting or in felling and bucking where the bar is shorter than the cut!)

Thanks for replies!!
Seems to be a divided field.
Best guess...try without and see if bar tip gets hot...
if hotter than rest of bar...need to grease.
Once started..need to continue..push out particles??
Thanks to all that have replied so far...
Hey..made sure a 'GREASE' question...and NOT OIL!!!
At least I know that much!!!!
Bes2ya all....J2F

I grease my tips when I grind my chains and I flip the bars too, I oil the needle bearing in the clutch also. Whether it is helping or not I dont know I have never abused a saw to find out how long one would run doing nothing, thats for the hired help to know.

jus2fat said:

Thanks for replies!!
Seems to be a divided field.
Best guess...try without and see if bar tip gets hot...
if hotter than rest of bar...need to grease.
Once started..need to continue..push out particles??
Thanks to all that have replied so far...
Hey..made sure a 'GREASE' question...and NOT OIL!!!
At least I know that much!!!!
Bes2ya all....J2F

Click to expand...

You got it. Some do, most don't.

You got it. Some do, most don't.

The real "driver" to ask this question was inspection of NEW bar.
If it is SO important..why didn't it come pre-greased from factory?
Checked Echo, Poulan, Husky at local hardware stores...
They have the grease hole...but none come pre-greased...HUH??
Thanks again for your replies..I won't take advantage of your kindness.
Bes2ya! J2F

They don't come pre-greased because it would make an awful mess during shipping if the temps got hot, like in a shipping container or truck. Why would they spend money on painting the bars and nice packaging to get it all soaked and stained with grease? By your reasoning, saws should come with gas and bar oil already in them.

Grease daily here.

If it's got a sprocket nose, I grease it every day. Just part of regular maintenance. I haven't had a sprocket sieze up in years. The bars wear out before the sprocket nose. But I've found that those plastic syringe-type greasers never seem to work, and the little metal ones need refilling too often and clog up, in my experience. I have a full-sized grease gun with a needle nose on the end, just for chainsaws, mostly. It lasts a whole season without refilling. Greasing the sprocket after every tank full of gas seems a bit much, though.

I think that most will agree that sprocket nosed bars are not the best for frequently cutting in dirty conditions, the bearing being susceptible. So, if you take it that a sprocket nose bar has a degree of vulnerability resulting from dirt, and you have to figure that some dirt will get in there over time, even when cutting in clean conditions, a little grease pumped in there, seems like a not too demanding proper maintenance procedure. Maybe LLCOOLJ can break it down some more?

I have a coffee can with bar oil in it and i will soak the tips in it and the put the bar cover back over it. I will do that after each use of the saw.

I usually clean the bar grooves and oil hole after a day of hard use. Then I take the blow gun from the air compressor and point it between the nose sprocket tips and get the bearing spinning at high rpm. It seems to clean out any dirt and old grease and really frees up the movement. Then I pump a good shot of grease into the bearing, so the bar is ready to rock and roll the next job. Been doing that maintenance for years.

I'd say if it tells you to grease it you should grease it because there's probably a reason for it.

weenieroaster said:

I usually clean the bar grooves and oil hole after a day of hard use. Then I take the blow gun from the air compressor and point it between the nose sprocket tips and get the bearing spinning at high rpm. It seems to clean out any dirt and old grease and really frees up the movement. Then I pump a good shot of grease into the bearing, so the bar is ready to rock and roll the next job. Been doing that maintenance for years.

Click to expand...

This is exactly what I do. I also using a piston stop grease the needle bearings weekly during cutting season. Never hurts to keep your tools clean and lubed.

My Husky 359 has a hole in the end of the driveshaft, so you can grease the needle bering without having to pull the clutch. It's pretty convenient. Wonder if Stihl has started doing that? It's fun to grease

it also makes the saw bar last alot longer by flushing grit from the bar tip bearing.the type of grease used is also a factor in how often you need too grease. i use white lithium grease sticky stuf will not fly off i can cut with my bars for 6 too 8 hours of cutting time in warm weather in cold weather 8 too 14 hours

weenieroaster said:

I think that most will agree that sprocket nosed bars are not the best for frequently cutting in dirty conditions, the bearing being susceptible. So, if you take it that a sprocket nose bar has a degree of vulnerability resulting from dirt, and you have to figure that some dirt will get in there over time, even when cutting in clean conditions, a little grease pumped in there, seems like a not too demanding proper maintenance procedure. Maybe LLCOOLJ can break it down some more?

Click to expand...

weenieroaster said:

I usually clean the bar grooves and oil hole after a day of hard use. Then I take the blow gun from the air compressor and point it between the nose sprocket tips and get the bearing spinning at high rpm. It seems to clean out any dirt and old grease and really frees up the movement. Then I pump a good shot of grease into the bearing, so the bar is ready to rock and roll the next job. Been doing that maintenance for years.

Click to expand...

That's exactly what I do, it's worked great so far.

somebody please 'splain how the cheap arsed little plastic "grease gun"
that came with my 346xp is supposed to function?

I must be missing something upstairs, i guess.....