plastic husky "grease gun"

the one that came with my 346xp.....

is it a joke?

does it really work? if so, then how.

thanks.

-I'm with stoopid<---<---

Shove the grease the whole way down to the bottom with your finger, and repeat. Then pump the cr@p out of it and it should work.

toss it...there's no need to grease bar tips.....never done it, never will.

It actually works OK, but I am sure there are better options.

I once took one back, that didn't work at all though......

I have quit greasing the bar tips, so I don't use them much any more.

TDunk said:

Shove the grease the whole way down to the bottom with your finger, and repeat. Then pump the cr@p out of it and it should work.

Click to expand...

Yes!

Get a metal bar grease gun at the local saw shop. Ten bucks.

I disagree about not having to grease bars. I have had bars delaminate at the sprocket tip. Said bars (Oregon) were redesigned and now have grease holes in them. More lubrication is more better... :greenchainsaw:

windthrown said:

Get a metal bar grease gun at the local saw shop. Ten bucks.

I disagree about not having to grease bars. I have had bars delaminate at the sprocket tip. Said bars (Oregon) were redesigned and now have grease holes in them. More lubrication is more better... :greenchainsaw:

Click to expand...

+1

all the grease guns that have come with my saws end up in the bin. get a propper one, use it as much as possible.

more grease = better

Yeah, I never got that stupid thing to work, I swear its broken. I pumped and pumped and pumped it, no grease.
Got a standard one that you pull out a lever and push it back in and pushes grease out. Works great.

Btw, not greasing you tip?? All moving metal parts should stay properly lubed. That is common knowledge for prolonging the life.

retoid said:

.... Btw, not greasing you tip?? All moving metal parts should stay properly lubed. That is common knowledge for prolonging the life.

Click to expand...

I believe the bar oil does that, as long as there is no grease there, keeping it out.......

There is a reason that there a no grease holes at the tip of the German made Stihl bars.

I can understand that, but say you are using a 36" bar. How well is the b/c oil distributed throughout the entire chain and bar? Does enough make it to the tip? I mean, why would most bars have that tip oiler hole?

In any case, it cant hurt right?

SawTroll said:

There is a reason that there a no grease holes at the tip of the German made Stihl bars.

Click to expand...

because they want them to break so they can sell more?

retoid said:

I can understand that, but say you are using a 36" bar. How well is the b/c oil distributed throughout the entire chain and bar? Does enough make it to the tip? I mean, why would most bars have that tip oiler hole?

In any case, it cant hurt right?

Click to expand...

Can't answer that, as the longest bar I use is a 24" on a 372xpg, and that one oils pretty good, without maxing the oiler out.

stevethekiwi said:

+1

all the grease guns that have come with my saws end up in the bin. get a propper one, use it as much as possible.

more grease = better

Click to expand...

I have had good luck with mine keeps working,I even used it on the Ujoints on my truck, they have a needle grease fitting on every cup. I missed placed my needle tip for my grease gun and used the husky tool had to refill it but it worked.But the real grease guns are better for bigger jobs as they hold more grease.

Grease Gun for Needle Bearing

I don't grease my bar sprocket, the bar oil does that. The Oregon guy once told me that once you grease it, you have to do it forever, because the grease mixes with the sawdust and forms a dam that keeps the bar oil out. Seems to work with just the bar oil, and I blow the dust out of the sprocket when I do a heavy cleaning of the saw.

But the little grease plunger lets me grease the needle bearing in the drive sprocket on my Husqvarna without having to pull the outboard clutch. There is a little hole in the drive shaft for this.

Not an issue with most Stihl saws that have an inboard clutch and a sprocket that pops off easy with an 'E' clip.

I don't think I have ever witnessed anyone anywhere grease their bar tip. If I did I might want to keep my distance from them.

TD dunk is right

I try to use mine regularly and there the same ones that came with the saws. I do notice that sometimes you really have to pump the daylights out of them to get them to work. But they are small and don't take up much room in the toolbox! I like to use a paperclip to clean out the grease port in the sprocket first.

huskydave said:

I don't think I have ever witnessed anyone anywhere grease their bar tip. If I did I might want to keep my distance from them.

Click to expand...

Well, stay there in Canada where you are a good distance from me then.

BTW: I hear that Stihl has added sprocket grease holes on their bars now. I wonder why? :monkey:

Philbert said:

But the little grease plunger lets me grease the needle bearing in the drive sprocket on my Husqvarna without having to pull the outboard clutch. There is a little hole in the drive shaft for this. ....

Click to expand...

Exactly, except there are some of Huskys with inboard clutches around as well (371-family and 385-family).....

Seem's like we've covered this tip greasing thing before.
All you greaser's sound off.

Andy

Late...

I am getting in late on the discussion, but I have always greased by sprocket nose bars that had holes to allow it. The Stihl bars with no grease holes were designed to be used with Stihl chain specially designed with an extra grove or channel in the DL to carry oil to the sprocket bearing. I also run Carlton chain with no groove/channel on the Stihl greaseless bar and have not had a problem but the nose does seem to get hotter in use with the non-Stihl chain.

My grease gun for the sprocket nose? Still the metal one that came with my first 621 Jonsered in 1981. I even have the plastic cover for the tip, though the connector broke off years ago.


Mark