Time to get chain grinded?
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Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
na.. just clean out the gullet with the same file. And.. looks like you aren't getting "into" the cutter enough.
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ms310
ArboristSite Operative
The rakers have been filed everytime the cutter is filed....last night needed alot of filing due to running about 1/2 gal thru it....today ran 3 tanks and not much filing was needed.
palogger
ArboristSite Operative
when filing by hand, try and keep the file deep in the tooth, rather than riding near the top
Signoflife
ArboristSite Operative
It looks like the Right Hand cutters are filed better than the LH cutters. The RH one in the photo seems to have a hook where the LH seems to have next to none. Look at a new chain for reference. Do you notice the saw wandering one way in the cut?
If 3/8" RS chain I think it calls for a 13/64" file, at least the ones I have do, and I find it to be right file, however when you get the cutter filed back after many sharpenings you may want to switch to the 7/32". If you use a file guide to match the file size and proper angle you should notice a difference. However it might take some filing or grinding like you suggested to get that chain back to catz azz.
If 3/8" RS chain I think it calls for a 13/64" file, at least the ones I have do, and I find it to be right file, however when you get the cutter filed back after many sharpenings you may want to switch to the 7/32". If you use a file guide to match the file size and proper angle you should notice a difference. However it might take some filing or grinding like you suggested to get that chain back to catz azz.
Bowtie
Gearhead
I always leave about 1/5 (one fifth) of the file above the cutter top. I might leave a little more "hook" than some, but my chains cut fast and true. I spend more time on my chains than many possibly, but Im not in a hurry when I sharpen. I use nothing but 13/64 files on 3/8 chain.
I used the husky 3/8 comibation file guide (blue one) and it has rollers for correct file depth.
It looks like the Right Hand cutters are filed better than the LH cutters. The RH one in the photo seems to have a hook where the LH seems to have next to none. Look at a new chain for reference. Do you notice the saw wandering one way in the cut?
If 3/8" RS chain I think it calls for a 13/64" file, at least the ones I have do, and I find it to be right file, however when you get the cutter filed back after many sharpenings you may want to switch to the 7/32". If you use a file guide to match the file size and proper angle you should notice a difference. However it might take some filing or grinding like you suggested to get that chain back to catz azz.
About 1/3rd of the chain is like that (random cutters) The saw does not wander or have a tendancy to to one side.
Will check into getting the 13/64 file for the next sharpening. The spare chain I have is new and the cutters are longer and has taller rakers.
I've read that after hand filing it 5 times, it's due to be grinded...is there another way to tell?
I have that same Husky set-up with the rollers. I also have the Stihl set-up. The only time I have ever had to get a chain ground is when I hit a fence inside a tree that was 38" DBH.
Signoflife
ArboristSite Operative
I have never had to take a chain to a grinder, although that is the easiest way to fix a mishap.
I have touched dirt / rocks a couple times, cut through frozen mud a couple and hit a spile buried in maple tree once. It took about three filings each time depending on the damage to get the chain back to proper.
Cutting all day with a properly filed chain sure is nice, and then one day hit a rock or whatever taught me to keep the chain away from unfriendly stuff.
Try and read this
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf
and then compare the shape of the cutter hook, angle and depth of drag to your new chain and you should start to recognize a proper setup. It doesn't matter how short the cutter tooth gets the other elements should remain the same.
Look at page 5 in the manual and if you watch these three elements:
1. Top Plate filing angle (using proper sized guide)
2. File guide angle (close is good enough to start and you can fine tune once you get on to it)
3. Depth gauge setting (again use a guide, on average you need to file the drags back about once every three to four sharpenings, if you are maintaining chain edge +/- 5 file strokes per cutter per sharpening with good file and not dulling chain right down each time before sharpening)
The other two items top and side plate cutting angles will take care of themselves but you can check these to see how close you are getting after filing.
At the end of life of the chains I file, I have them taken back close to the witness marks on the cutter. If you have followed the guides it should cut the same as new, as long as you maintain the elements mentioned before.
Zackman1801
ArboristSite Guru
some might take their chains to be ground but i never ever have on any of my chains. i file them by hand untill the line and then throw them out. i dont have the time to take them anywhere during the day and i dont have the money to spend on a grinder when a $1 file will do the trick for quite some time. You can do anything a grinder can do with some time, patience, a steady hand and a round file.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
You might do better with the simple file guide sold by stihl, oregon and others. It will set your file the correct depth. If the depth is not correct, you'll have gullet and/or hook problems.
Personally, I hate the pferd style combination file/raker system. I use a stihl file guide, and touch up the rakers every now and then. I rarely need to file the rakers after only 3 sharpenings on a new stihl chain.
Unless you really mess up your hand filing, grinding isn't necessary. I grind rocked-out chains or if I'm feeling lazy, but...
7/32 is fine. The only reason stihl specified 13/64 is to maintain the "prefect" profile in the last 1/3 of the cutter - 7/32 is a little large then.
Personally, I hate the pferd style combination file/raker system. I use a stihl file guide, and touch up the rakers every now and then. I rarely need to file the rakers after only 3 sharpenings on a new stihl chain.
Unless you really mess up your hand filing, grinding isn't necessary. I grind rocked-out chains or if I'm feeling lazy, but...
7/32 is fine. The only reason stihl specified 13/64 is to maintain the "prefect" profile in the last 1/3 of the cutter - 7/32 is a little large then.
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scotclayshooter
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1 on the Stihl file guide.
Im sure SawTroll pointed out at one time the Husqvarna roller guide needed modified to work on Stihl chain.
So that might be the problem.
Im sure SawTroll pointed out at one time the Husqvarna roller guide needed modified to work on Stihl chain.
So that might be the problem.
pickwood
ArboristSite Operative
13/64 or 7/32 file will work on the 3/8 chain- I prefer the 7/32 file for my chains. Either one will work- looks to me there is a little too much down pressure while filing- try too put more pressure back toward the tooth. Once the tooth is filed correctly the file will fit perfectly and glide through the tooth. And I have trouble with this, dont wait until the saw is dull before you stop and sharpen the chain- if you do this it should only take a couple of strokes with the file to sharpen. Hope this helps.:greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw:
super3
Addicted to ArboristSite
SawTroll
Did some digging on the husky roller guide modification info;
I have the blue bodied husky roller file guide, how deep do I have to notch the front slot on the roller guide for the RS chain?
I keep finding glens reported small amounts of material removed to make the front notch deeper, I don't know how deep he's talking about?
http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=615785&postcount=10
http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1137316&postcount=5
http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=254977&postcount=6
scotclayshooter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just bumping this up to see if anyone has the answer.
