OK, another oil thread

As I said yesterday I bought several saws. My father has claimed the smallest one of the bunch, Remington Mighty Mite Bantam. According to a website I found (through this site...thanks) they said 16:1 mix ratio. He will be using Stihl Ultra (white bottle). Any ideas where this mix should be on this saw?
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...2725f90f1d683afb88256d350021826c?OpenDocument
I know I said I wouldn't ask any oil questions, guess I lied.
Thanks...

barneyrb said:

As I said yesterday I bought several saws. My father has claimed the smallest one of the bunch, Remington Mighty Mite Bantam. According to a website I found (through this site...thanks) they said 16:1 mix ratio. He will be using Stihl Ultra (white bottle). Any ideas where this mix should be on this saw?
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...2725f90f1d683afb88256d350021826c?OpenDocument
I know I said I wouldn't ask any oil questions, guess I lied.
Thanks...

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with a good oil like that it doesn't have to be 16:1 i'd run it 32:1

Gary?!?!?

From what I understand, back in the days when they called for 16:1 or 32:1 the oils weren't as good as todays oils. As far as I know, using todays oils (Stihl ultra, etc...) just about all engines should be fine on 50:1.

I'm sure others will chime in on this..

:agree2: Two cycle oil today is way better than years ago. Heck they used to use motor oil at one time. :greenchainsaw:

I run the same Klotz R50 at 40:1 in all my saw. Even those from the 50s and 60s that speced 16:1. That spec was likely with 30W engine oil. With modern 2-stroke oil, all that will do is smoke a lot and carbon up your engine. Put some 40:1, or even 50:1 in there and forget it. You don't even need 32:1.

stihlboy said:

with a good oil like that it doesn't have to be 16:1 i'd run it 32:1

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i just like the better safe than sorry approach myself i know others will run 50:1 all day but i dont that often unless i ran out

Use too much oil and all you're doing is promoting carbon buildup in the engine. You're not doing your engine a favor. This is especially true in the Stihl 4-mix engine. I believe Andy said they're good at 70:1 but Stihl wants to keep their mix recommendation consistent. I run Ultra @ 50:1 in my KM131 and Klotz R50 @ 40:1 in everything else. I'm sure I could run them at 50:1 too. I guess I'm doing a little of the "rather safe than sorry" thing myself

blsnelling said:

Use too much oil and all you're doing is promoting carbon buildup in the engine. You're not doing your engine a favor. This is especially true in the Stihl 4-mix engine. I believe Andy said they're good at 70:1 but Stihl wants to keep their mix recommendation consistent. I run Ultra @ 50:1 in my KM131 and Klotz R50 @ 40:1 in everything else. I'm sure I could run them at 50:1 too. I guess I'm doing a little of the "rather safe than sorry" thing myself

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yeah cuz parts for some of our saws are really really hard to find

50:1

Hey guys not trying to start anything but just a thought. I locked up a
pro 1010 mac 16:1 saw on 50:1, it was stihl oil. I run 32:1 in old saws
40:1 in newer ones. I had a kawasaki mech tell me he runs 32:1 in all
2 strokes he said 32:1 is where you get the best ring seal and thus the
best power. He also said 50:1 and up is hard on bottom ends no matter
what the oil says. I am not saying he is all right but I do think carbon
is not the problem it was with old dirty oils. The new oils are so much
cleaner burning. Just a thought.

You probably blew the Mac up because you were drunk ya fool
I don't know if I'd listen to a Kawasaki mechanic but your reasoning sounds good on your mixes

I put 50:1 ultra in all saws... No issues...

The mighty might bantam I had ony had a low adjustment screw. I run 25 to 1 in everything I use myself currently,but the mighty might ran to rich fuel to air with less oil so i mixed 16 to 1 for it usually because it run better with it.
I dislike carbs without high adjustments because no matter what you mix the fine tuning is going to make the biggest difference in performance and reliability whether its carbon buildup or seizure from heat.

Lakeside53 said:

I put 50:1 ultra in all saws... No issues...

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Exactly... 50:1 Stihl Ultra in all my saws... from 4 years old to 40 years old...

You guys sure do love to beat the holy carp out of that horse don't ya...

FFS DO A SEARCH... 16:1 and 20:1 ratios are when straight 30wt motor oil was used, and when 2 stroke oil was not much better...

Gary

Well, what it comes down to basically is that all AS chainsaw threads are really just oil theads in disguise. Its either what oil should I use in my saw, what oil caused this saw's damage, or what saw should I buy for my oil. So may as well be blatant about it and call them all oil threads, right?

Anyway, it is all good for the launch, promotion and product placement for:

GaryWay, INC!

Glug glug glug...

After months of reading oil threads, I have drawn the following conclusions.
When it really comes down to it there isn't any reason to run anything other than good 2 stroke oil designed specifically for air cooled engines at 50:1 in a saw. Quite obviously, a manufacturer's oil is the best choice, although there's no reason not to run Ultra in a Husqvarna and XP oil in a Stihl, etc. A reputable company's 2 stroke oil formulated for air cooled engines should be fine too, although not necessarily preferable to the manufacturer's oil (ex. Amsoil Sabre, mixed @ 50:1) I've also learned to partially ignore the JASO ratings as well, as Ultra is only FB despite being extremely high grade oil...

GASoline71 said:

FFS

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Come on mate, watch your language

mowoodchopper said:

Hey guys not trying to start anything but just a thought. I locked up a
pro 1010 mac 16:1 saw on 50:1, it was stihl oil. I run 32:1 in old saws
40:1 in newer ones. I had a kawasaki mech tell me he runs 32:1 in all
2 strokes he said 32:1 is where you get the best ring seal and thus the
best power. He also said 50:1 and up is hard on bottom ends no matter
what the oil says. I am not saying he is all right but I do think carbon
is not the problem it was with old dirty oils. The new oils are so much
cleaner burning. Just a thought.

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You will have more power at 50:1 than 32:1. Oil doesn't make power, gasoline does. You will get more gas thru a given jet orfice at 50:1 than 32:1, more oil=less gas. Be sure to re-adjust the carb if you change ratio's, and you even might have to re-jet.
And I am old enough to remember using regular motor oil in 2-stroke engines, lol.

Oil ratio

KD57 said:

You will have more power at 50:1 than 32:1. Oil doesn't make power, gasoline does. You will get more gas thru a given jet orfice at 50:1 than 32:1, more oil=less gas. Be sure to re-adjust the carb if you change ratio's, and you even might have to re-jet.
And I am old enough to remember using regular motor oil in 2-stroke engines, lol.

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Actually, oil does make power in two ways. If you dont have enough oil to
get good ring seal you lose compression, thus you lose power. Also not enough oil equals too much heat and you lose power. Oil does have a certain amount of Btu,s of power depending on the oil. This is why you can run a diesel on oil if done right. Also this is why some people are adding 2cycle oil to diesel fuel for more power and mileage-it raises the BTU,s of the fuel. Diesel does not have the power it did when it had more lubricity to it. A lot of tests have been done with 2 cycle engines and ratios and super lean mixes, such as 100:1 amsoil which actually loses power. Amsoil says 100:1 is okay in 2 cycle engines. It may be okay as far as lubrication, but it does not give peak horsepower. Also 32:1 in most oils and even 20:1 had as much power as 50:1. Look at some of the tests done at www giestware.com/oil test. Also back when they ran motor oil in 2 cycles it was best to use non detergent - it mixes better with gas.