Filing Rakers with a Dremel

I have always used a dremel to file my rakers down. I used to always use aluminum oxide grinding wheels to do so. The wheels didnt last all that long, but giving the time savings over hand filing them I didnt really care. I recently tried a tungsten carbide cutter, that was almost 10 dollars just for the cutter and it did not work all that well. Just wondering what all you guys use for stones, or cutters, that use a dremel on the rakers. I use a bench mounted grinder to sharpen my chains, files are not an option. Just wondering what stone / cutter you guys use that holds up well and is relativly quick. Attached is the tungsten carbide cutter I tried, that was supposed to work well on "hard metals".

unless you have a huge bar, why would it be worth it to spend money on anything more than a 4 dollar file? It only takes about 2 minutes on a 20" bar. Just wondering?

mattmc2003 said:

unless you have a huge bar, why would it be worth it to spend money on anything more than a 4 dollar file? It only takes about 2 minutes on a 20" bar. Just wondering?

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I agree. The raker setting is super critical to having the saw cut straight. You may or may not need to use a guide but the rakers have to match the tooth exactly. Even a 3' bar takes just a few minutes. To each his own eh?

according to how grabby the new chain cuts, i may wait about 2 filings on the cutters, then, i just take the small file, put my other thumb over the tip of the cutter in case i bump it, and give it two good strokes on each one. If it feels like it could use some extra bite even when new, i take one swipe to each one. Seems to work for me. And if it is a little grabby, the next cutter filing will take it back out.

mattmc2003 said:

unless you have a huge bar, why would it be worth it to spend money on anything more than a 4 dollar file? It only takes about 2 minutes on a 20" bar. Just wondering?

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+1 Used to struggle with an ordinary file but get the Stihl one and the guide. Makes the job easy and accurate. Never been happy with the one wipe every 3 sharpenings or whatever unless you've been at it for years. Too much room for error over time.

With a new flat file you can darn rear cut a raker all the way off in about 10 licks. if you do them while the chain is on the bar just losen the bar nuts and tighten the chain up as much as you can so you can still move it. Now you can use more force and the teeth wont move.

or you can just shove a wedge between the chain & rail.

My local Husky dealer gives me used chains just to get rid of them and if they have never had rakers done then I grind them close with the dremel and then file them the rest of the way. On chains that have spent their entire life with me filing is enough. I just use the little stones you get from the hobby store.

I filed the rakers down for a friend on his 371xp this past weekend, the teeth were close to the witness mark, so maybe they had one more filing left. And the rakers had never been touched. You couldn't make it bog down, it needed some bite.I took two swipes on each raker with my cheap 6" file, and it was on the verge of grabby, so i can't imagine even touching a dremel to one.

I have always used a dremel. I have a raker file from baileys. Seems to be a lot quicker though to use the dremel and I do use a guide. I sharpen chains (for friends family neighbors etc etc) and get lots of chains that have been sharpened to where the cutter is almost gone, but the rakers havent been touched. I find I can usually do it quicker with a dremel, especially if I have to take a lot off. I usually sharpen once a week, and if I am cutting all week, I may have 6 or 7 chains to do every week. + some for friends and family neighbors etc, sometimes I have 20+ chains to do. I dont enjoy sharpening chains, so I try to get it done as fast as possible. I like to touch the rakers up every grinding or every other grinding. Just looking for a quick way to do it so I use a dremel. So I was wondering for those of you who use a dremel what stone you use.

I use my HF chain sharpener set at 0 degrees and grind them all the way down. I only cut soft woods and the cheap saw cuts real fast that way.

Bill

landroverbill said:

I use my HF chain sharpener set at 0 degrees and grind them all the way down. I only cut soft woods and the cheap saw cuts real fast that way.

Bill

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I hope you wear face protection...lol

I find the wood sanding 1/4 inch dremel attachment to work the best.

Oh, yes I do!

Flat file and a raker depth gage, simple, effective.
Dok

landroverbill said:

Oh, yes I do!

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What saw?

nate cutter said:

I find the wood sanding 1/4 inch dremel attachment to work the best.

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Thanks

landroverbill said:

I use my HF chain sharpener set at 0 degrees and grind them all the way down. I only cut soft woods and the cheap saw cuts real fast that way.

Bill

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I am not looking to take them all the way down. I know many guys who do, I cut hardwoods, oak maple walnut etc. I find, taking the rakers all the way off, is not onoly dangerous, you can easily break teeth, big saw small bar and no raker tries to take too big of a bite and the tooth can break

I file them off for my small Poulans, not the 385xp

Dok said:

Flat file and a raker depth gage, simple, effective.
Dok

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Simple, effective, and the way it should be done. Either that or use a jig, but that takes alot longer. I have the Stihl guide and I set the guide on the chair/bar and feel where the raker is, if it needs a trim I do a small stroke or two and measure again. When it's where it needs to be I make sure the raker is rounded. As with the cutters, I feel it is easier to frequently dress the rakers slightly then wait till I have to dress them alot.

landroverbill said:

I use my HF chain sharpener set at 0 degrees and grind them all the way down. I only cut soft woods and the cheap saw cuts real fast that way.

Bill

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I wouldn't want to stand close to someone using a saw with a chain like that much less use one...

Sharpening is like foreplay for my saw...I take my time, and use the files.