Chain question .325 vs .375 ?

Okay, maybe this is a stupid question, but what advantage does one chain pitch have over the other? For my specific application, I am running an 18" bar on an 036 chain saw, and I run Stihl RSC chain. Which chain pitch should make the fastest cut? I would think that it would be the .325 because it's making a narrower cut, but I'm not really sure.

The reason behind my question is that I'm at a point where I could use a new bar, and rim, and my chains are pretty well worn. So if there's and advantage to one over the other this summer would be a good time to make a change. I use the saw for bucking and noodling. I'd like to get a bigger saw for noodling, but that's going to be a few years out.

Thanks,
Mark

on a 036 i would stay with the 3/8 ...any smaller saw i like to run a .325 pitch.

I run 3/8" on my 036. I think anything smaller will just lead to very rapid wear of the rivets and a lot of stretch. Could be the 036 just plain has too my HP for the .325 and may lead to breakage as well.

On the other hand, the .325 would cut faster for a short while anyway due to less wood being removed from the relatively small kerf.

Mark

Regular 3/8" pitch is the most appropriate chain for that saw.

that question is usually seen with 026 ... not 036 which should be using 3/8

Stay with the 3/8, to much saw for 325 it will most likely slow it down and generally suck!

Go with 3/8th.

Sam

Most brands of regular .325 are rate for 60cc and smaller engines. I do not know about narrow kerf .325.

Benefits of .325 over regular .375 would a smoother saw in the cut, easier tip starts, and reduced grab when limbing.

I use .325 x 9 rims on the 036 with 18" bars and prefer it to .375 for the above listed reasons.

Well, at least a couple of the replys had some reasons. I don't understand why the rivits would wear more though, and I haven't noticed any more stretch with chains on the 036 than I have my 024. They both run the same chain. I've beat the snot out of some .325 chains and not had any problems with them on my 036.

I know that most people run a 3/8 on an 036. My question is why. I don't mind making the switch, but I'm not going to spend the money on a new bar and new chains just to try and find out that there's no noticable difference, or that the saw actually cuts slower. I'm currently running a 7 pin rim, and I'm thinking hard about moving up to at least an 8 pin or maybe a 9 pin. What I'm really fishing for here is why would any 3/8 set up be better on my saw than a .325 running an 8 or 9 pin rim? I'm not trying to start any flaming contests here, and I mean no disrespect to those who have replied. I appreciate the feedback. Just looking for some information.

Thanks,
Mark

Most people run the pitch of chain that came on the saw when it was purchased. That can be determined by the manufacturer, distributor, dealer, or the original owner.

I own many 036s and have tried lots of different setups. I prefer .325 over .375 but only with the .325 x 9 rim. I am usually under-impressed with most 60cc saws and regular 3/8 chain. If you switch to .375 than I recommend the 7 rim only. For folks that worry about chip clearing ability of .325 it certainly has not been an issue with the 18" bar.

.325 x 9 runs out of speed on most saws over 65cc that can handle the .375 x 8 rim with the relative length bar.

It should be noted that the are at least 2 different rim drives for the 036s. A small rim drive that is common on the 029 series and will only take up to .325 x 8 and a large rim drive that the .325 x 9 requires. There might be others and perhaps .325 x 9 rims are available in the smaller drive size but I have not found any. I do not buy spur sprockets so I do not know about those.

I hate running .325 on anything. Kerf is too wide, and on smaller saws it floats in the cut causing the bars to pinch. I use 3/8 picco on the 1123 saws, and 3/8 standard on anything larger. On an 036 I would definately use 3/8 standard chain. I would run a 7 pin rim on a 20 inch and larger bar. With an 16 or 18 inch bar, I would run an 8 pin rim (same as on the 361).

Windthrow - I thought on RSC chain, the .325 had a narrower kerf than the .375? I'll have to double check that. I was thinking that the .325 cutters were just a little shorter, a little narrower, and a little closer together than on a .375 chain. I'll double check though.

Justsaws - thanks for the feedback. I do have a small spline rim on my 036, so I am limited to 7 pin and 8 pin rims unless I want to spend another $20 and put a different spline on. To clarify what you've determined with your experience, when running a 7 pin rim you prefer the .375 pitch on an 036. Why is that? Is the .375 faster than the .325? The only times I've had problems clearing chips is when I'm noodling a piece that's laying on the ground and I get down close enough to the ground that the powerhead is sitting in the noodles.


I have noticed that I can't hardly stop a .325 RSC chain with the 036 with the standard 7 pin rim unless it gets pinched. I take a stroke off the drag links on all my chains now and now I can stop the chain if I push really hard on the saw. I had a couple of chains that I took multiple strokes off the drag links, and they will stop the saw if I let the RPMs drop, but I've opted not to do that to the chains any more. Too rough on nose cuts, and that saw will yank itself into the wood pretty hard on the cut. I've noticed with the 036 that I put a lot of pressure on the saw, and I think that's too hard on the chain. If I stay with the .325, I will certainly step up to at least the 8 pin rims and maybe swap it all out so that I can go with the 9 pin rim. But before I do anything, I want to give the folks on here; who've done this more than I have; a chance to convice me that the .375 chain is better for my saw. I know that most folks use the .375, and I know that most 036 class saws are sold set up for .375, but I'm curious why that is. I'd like to think that theres a reason, but I haven't heard many yet. As of right now I'd stay with the .325 if for no other reason than to be able to use the old bars and chains on my 024 that I use mainly for limbing.

I've done some comparos on my 5100-S in dry Aussie hardwood using both guages. The 3/8" was faster in Carlton semi chisel with less cutters to sharpen as well. Both on 18" bars.
Some of the people in the US on this site swear that .325" is quicker than 3/8" on harder woods (full chisel maybe?). I didn't find this at all when I compared the two in semi chisel a few times but that doesn't mean the others are wrong in their conditions.
The few .325" bars I have in stock will be sold to customers that want them, I'll stick with 3/8" or 3/8"LP. No .325" for me!
Matt.

I've never tested stock chain on a stock saw, but square ground .325 is faster than square ground 3/8 on my ported MS260. A 036 should wear 3/8.

.325<.375, so a loop of .325 will have more DL, more rivets, and smaller diameter rivets. In addition the tie straps are smaller, thus not as strong.

If every rivet/hole wears .001" and you have 10 more DL, then the chain has worn or "stretched" an additional .010".

I tend to be a bit hard on my stuff so I like the chain to be as durable as possible. I have .375 chain on my 910 and 930 Jonsered saws (87cc), and with the 24" bar you really notice the increased wear (chain stretch) when running it hard.

I have .404 chain on my bigger direct drive saws with 24-32" bars and you can really pull on those without causing any problems. Certainly they are a bit slower in the cut, but I am not racing, just trying to cut wood.

My gear drive saws all have 1/2" pitch chain; the saws are slow but unstoppable and the chain is very long wearing.

Mark

The 036 with .325 x 7 was a slow cut.
.325 x 8 was similar .375 x 7 in speed but smoother.
.375 x 8 was fast but gutless.
.325 x 9 was fastest and smoothest.

If you were closer it would be easy for you to try these combinations out.

You might ask you dealer if you can try out the setups on your saw at his shop. Some dealers have logs and a supply of used demo bars and chains. It might cost you a rim but asking should be free.

In the grand scheme of things the overall speed at the end of the day amounts to very little. Personal prefeferance, economy, control, and comfort is why I run .325 on the smaller saws. Most saws I own are setup to run the largest rim readily availible. That usally means shorter bars and sometimes smaller pitch chains.

you're splitting hairs on speed.... main factor for me is consistency in chain sizes to stock.

026 is the only saw using .325... everything else uses 3/8 .. except .404 for 084 and tiny pico for 200T/HT75

bulk of the work is done by 3/8... it's a pita to support .325 too.
when going bulk chain... that's one less roll of chain to buy. at $235 per roll... one prefers to reduce types of chain to support.

046 said:

you're splitting hairs on speed.... main factor for me is consistency in chain sizes to stock.

026 is the only saw using .325... everything else uses 3/8 .. except .404 for 084 and tiny pico for 200T/HT75

bulk of the work is done by 3/8... it's a pita to support .325 too.
when going bulk chain... that's one less roll of chain to buy. at $235 per roll... one prefers to reduce types of chain to support.

Click to expand...

Exactly, the OP other saw uses .325, in my opinion his life would be easier with both saws running the same pitch/gauge. There is not enough performance increase to make the switch. The only thing I would recommend is a .325 x 8 rim instead of the 7.

First off.... Holy Beer!! I run 3 different saws daily (weather permitting), and each saw takes a different chain. Not too bad at all..... each chain/saw combo has certain situations it excells in, and sees atleast one sharpening a day. Just keep your files/gauges labeled and seperate.... No big deal at all.
I run an 011av with the small Stihl 3/8 Picco on a 14" bar that works wonders for high limbing, and brush or clearing. It is narrow cut that rarely gets pinched. My go-to saw is my MS260 Pro spinning a .325 semi chisel carbide at 16". That chain rips perfect noodles for most of the day. A very durable chain that rips through dirty skidded hardwoods. My "big" saw is a ported (exhaust) Jonsered 2065 with a 2071/371 cyl. It rips a 20", 3/8 full chisel. That saw sees alot of hardwood plunge cutting, and is by far my most agressive chain. It chews 4"+ noodles at a phenomenal speed.... almost have to hold the saw back... but gets dull quick. I use my .325 MS260 most, as it stays sharp, and is aggressive enough to get the job done. I keep at leat 3 sharp chains for each saw on hand, and rotate them regularly.... My chainsaws make my paycheck.

MCW said:

I've done some comparos on my 5100-S in dry Aussie hardwood using both guages. The 3/8" was faster in Carlton semi chisel with less cutters to sharpen as well. Both on 18" bars.
Some of the people in the US on this site swear that .325" is quicker than 3/8" on harder woods (full chisel maybe?). I didn't find this at all when I compared the two in semi chisel a few times but that doesn't mean the others are wrong in their conditions.
The few .325" bars I have in stock will be sold to customers that want them, I'll stick with 3/8" or 3/8"LP. No .325" for me!
Matt.

Click to expand...

thats interesting Matt, good info.

i have heard from a racer over here that .325 has given good results in our hardwoods in the 3 cut races (bore-down-up, down, up)

what gauge where the chains?

i believe the stihl chains in .325 are the preferred choice. it looks like they are built on a 0.063 chassis. the 0.050 gauge .325 stihl i have is a stepped drive link that is 0.063 between the straps

i just purchased a 5100s from here on behalf of a friend, its coming with 18inch 3/8 bar... will be interesting to see how it compares to my 346xpne with 16 inch .325 bar....

Serg