Chain sharpening 101

Maybe a dumb question, but I'm not sure.

When filing a chain, I know it is best to start on the cutter that needs the most filing and do all them the same as that one. My question is, do all the other cutters on the opposite side need to be the same as the lowest? Ie, do all the cutters need to match the lowest, no matter which side?

jmbones said:

Maybe a dumb question, but I'm not sure.

When filing a chain, I know it is best to start on the cutter that needs the most filing and do all them the same as that one. My question is, do all the other cutters on the opposite side need to be the same as the lowest? Ie, do all the cutters need to match the lowest, no matter which side?

Click to expand...

This is a debated subject, but the most important thing is that each cutter is sharp, and the depth guage for each cutter is set correctly.

For me, I make them all even. But it will work if you just sharpen each tooth to what it needs, and set the raker to that tooth, I just don't like it that way.

JMB!
It's standard practice to identify the shortest cutter, which then become your "master" cutter. All other cutters are then brought to the same length. Obviously, you need to match both the RH and LH cutters to this minimum length. It may seem like you are "wasting" chain, but it will ensure that your chain which cuts straighter and smoother.

It will cut in an arc instead of cutting straight if there is too much difference between the sides, especially on a worn bar. Plus, leaving one side longer won't extend the chains life.

The worst part is that every tooth reminds me that I rocked it (or whatever) when I'm grinding them down.

You don't HAVE to take them all down to the shortest. Having a couple shorter ones here or there doesn't seem to affect it much to me if I set the rakers like parris mentioned.

Nope. Won’t make any difference if you just take the cutters to what they need.
I wouldn’t cut back an entire chain to match one bad cutter.

In the past I filed each tooth as even as possible. Set the rakers exactly the same. I think having each raker set the same so each tooth cuts the same is more important.

I had chain repair kits too so I could replace the damaged teeth on .404” chain.

9 year old thread and still half misleading.

Only fix the rocked teeth and match their rakers to the rest of the good ones. The only thing that matters here are the rakers. It may have a bit of a lope if too many cutters on both sides are shorter than the rest of the loop, but it will still cut straight... that's a guarantee.
In fact buckin actually set up a video of this exact thing to dispel the entire myth.

Main thing is.....don't cut rocks.

I like all my teeth the same but find if you have a couple of shorties mixed in on both sides it'll still cut.
Too many on one side and saw will try to do a u-turn in the big stuff.

Chainsaw Jim said:

9 year old thread and still half misleading.

Only fix the rocked teeth and match their rakers to the rest of the good ones. The only thing that matters here are the rakers. It may have a bit of a lope if too many cutters on both sides are shorter than the rest of the loop, but it will still cut straight... that's a guarantee.
In fact buckin actually set up a video of this exact thing to dispel the entire myth.

Click to expand...

Thank you....

When we get it right the bar n chain will cut perfectly vertical. If not she will cut to one side on an angle.

Take a bunch of meat off the side of the rakers if you really want to see a chain take some side to side angles.

Hey JMBones!
In respect of your title "Chain sharpening 101" I believe we should stick to the correct procedure, and not the "what has always worked for me" approach. The only "misleading" part of this thread is advice given by self-professed "Pros", which flies in the face of proper procedure. There may be many newcomers to this hobby who take this wrong advice, much to their own detriment. Let's try to help them rather than hinder them.

When it comes to chainsaws, it always pays to "do it right", and not skimp. Chains are disposable and comparatively cheap. They should be kept in good condition. If you have 3 or 4 badly damaged teeth owing to contact with rock or steel, and the chain is still relatively new, it would pay you to have the dealer replace the damaged links, and then you can file them back to match the rest of the links in the chain. Proper procedure is to always have teeth the same length. I have attached p49 of the Stihl MS661 manual for reference. You will see similar recommendations in any good chain sharpening book, video, or presentation.

Good luck, and keep 'em sharp!

Maybe a dumb question, but I'm not sure.

When filing a chain, I know it is best to start on the cutter that needs the most filing and do all them the same as that one. My question is, do all the other cutters on the opposite side need to be the same as the lowest? Ie, do all the cutters need to match the lowest, no matter which side?

So, to answer your question - I would say "yes".