0.050 vs. 0.063

[cscltd]

Of course there is a difference from 050 to 063. My 2 cent not much. I have some bars that have hundreds of cords or thousand and are still going strong. Start with 050 gets worn then go to 058 then go to 063. I pretty much can not determine any difference. The difference is very small. If you like a 063 bar use it. It will take mega HP to pull a wider chain yes. That mega HP might be measured as a hundredth of a HP or not noticeable. Some have said the wider chain is more durable then use it. Thanks

the saw chain cutters are the same part # for .050 .058 and .063 chain in same pitch, so fail to see why you would need more HP?

 

[user 122190]

I’m interested in your 32” es light bar if you want to sell it at a good price

Shipping costs would kill that idea. Could be more then the bar itself.

 

[Huskybill]

I run 404”/.050” ga most of the time on my larger power heads in the past. I’m switching to 404”/.063 ga on them now. Th 404” tooth are longer.

 

[bwalker]

I've used .050 gauge chain on everything from 50-90cc. I haven't noticed any chain issues whatsoever.
In certain woods like dead/dry red oak with the bar tip burried I have had chain grooves pack with the small chips oak makes. I've often wondered if .063 would help with this? I can't see any other benifit whatsoever.

 

[ericm979]

the saw chain cutters are the same part # for .050 .058 and .063 chain in same pitch, so fail to see why you would need more HP?

The wider drive links space the right and left teeth farther apart. .013" (from .050 to .063) isn't a huge increase in the kerf but it's not zero. The only advantage I could see for .063 is the wider drive links not wearing the sprocket as fast but I'll take the easier availability and slightly lighter chain (and probably bar as well) and replace my sprockets a little sooner.

 

[user 122190]

I've used .050 gauge chain on everything from 50-90cc. I haven't noticed any chain issues whatsoever.
In certain woods like dead/dry red oak with the bar tip burried I have had chain grooves pack with the small chips oak makes. I've often wondered if .063 would help with this? I can't see any other benifit whatsoever.

Seems to me with a wider gauge you would only pack bigger chips. Wood in the grooves is going to happen regardless of the gauge. From this thread, it seems to be an important decision if you are in Australia cutting up nasty sticky trees. In Montana the Northern Pacific, it doesn't matter. I just find 0.050 to be so commonly available that that is what I use, exclusively.

 

[Franny K]

The wider drive links space the right and left teeth farther apart. .013" (from .050 to .063) isn't a huge increase in the kerf but it's not zero. The only advantage I could see for .063 is the wider drive links not wearing the sprocket as fast but I'll take the easier availability and slightly lighter chain (and probably bar as well) and replace my sprockets a little sooner.

If the part of the drive link that goes into the bar groove is reduced and up at the rivet all 3 sizes are the same there will be no difference in the difference in left to right of the side plates of the cutters hence the kerf. Really have to specify the chain model for a proper discussion of this topic.

 

[bwalker]

Seems to me with a wider gauge you would only pack bigger chips. Wood in the grooves is going to happen regardless of the gauge. From this thread, it seems to be an important decision if you are in Australia cutting up nasty sticky trees. In Montana the Northern Pacific, it doesn't matter. I just find 0.050 to be so commonly available that that is what I use, exclusively.

Regional differences in wood surely make a big difference. The wood we have in Montana is all gopher wood density wise. When I lived in Upper MI it was a totally different.
Dry red oak packs the grooves of the bar because when you cut it it doesn't form a nice chip like most other wood. The chips are brittle/break easily and make a ton of fines. Not so much an issue until the bar is burried.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

the saw chain cutters are the same part # for .050 .058 and .063 chain in same pitch, so fail to see why you would need more HP?

I thought I stated that. Maybe I should reiterate. The wider drive with friction and all might be more. In most 050 to 063 chains there is virtually no difference between any of them. From my point of view the difference is how they fit into bars and when you have a good snug fit it makes one smile. Thanks

 

[CR888]

When cutting really hardwoods chips will bind up in 0.50 and you literally have to pry them out. This doesn't happen with 0.63. If your not cutting really dense wood you'll never notice a difference, that's why so many say their is no difference. If 050 works well for you stick with it.

 

[ericm979]

If the part of the drive link that goes into the bar groove is reduced and up at the rivet all 3 sizes are the same there will be no difference in the difference in left to right of the side plates of the cutters hence the kerf. Really have to specify the chain model for a proper discussion of this topic.

I went out and measured some chains (Stihl and Woodland Pro) and you're right. The .050 chain drive links are .061 where the cutters rivet on just like the .063 chain I measured. They're thinned down where they go into the bar slot. So I was wrong about chain gauge affecting the kerf.

 

[bwalker]

When cutting really hardwoods chips will bind up in 0.50 and you literally have to pry them out. This doesn't happen with 0.63. If your not cutting really dense wood you'll never notice a difference, that's why so many say their is no difference. If 050 works well for you stick with it.

What species in Australia do this?

 

[unknwn]

Shipping costs would kill that idea. Could be more then the bar itself.

How much would I likely spend (overall) if you shipped it to N.E. Ohio (44721 ZIP) ? PM me if I'm not cutting someone else's situation.

 

[user 122190]

How much would I likely spend (overall) if you shipped it to N.E. Ohio (44721 ZIP) ? PM me if I'm not cutting someone else's situation.

Honestly, I'm not even thinking about it. I fully expect to be swapping this at RDO this Tuesday or Wednesday. But thanks for the interests.

 

[CR888]

What species in Australia do this?

Quite a few, many gum species, grey box yellow box and other box species.

 

[Huskybill]

Once a week the saw gets torn down, blow the chips out, clean the bar groove, lube the clutch brg, bar sprocket. Can’t skip maintence.

 

[sean donato]

I think Bill hit it right on, maintenance is a key part. I typically run .050" just because it can be had anywhere around here easily, up to 24". After 24" I run .063". Only because the wider gauge is more readily available. I did have an old husky bar that I stepped up to .058 because the Grove was worn and would accept it, did the same with the .043 on my 193tc it runs. 050 now. Don't know about oz but our hardwoods don't cause any issues with whatever gauge you use. Oiling hasn't ever been an issue.
I've also heard, depending on chain brand, the drivers are ground down to fit the narrower gauge Grove and the rest of the chain is the same as .063. Never bothered to measure myself but can see this being the cheaper option for companies as the have less different parts on hand to make the different chains.