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009L bought in 1992 - Oil pump diaphragm

August1959

August1959

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Just wanted to put it out there. This has been and still is a great saw. I kept everything in good shape except the oil pump should have been cleaned more often, but it never failed to oil the chain very well.

Anyone know any place foreign or domestic that may have this part? OEM or aftermarket? Used? Does anyone make these? Is there a chainsaw junkyard anywhere? I will buy the whole pump if I can find one.

The old diaphragm doesn't have a hole in it, but it looks as if the rubber over the membrane is partially gone (I'm assuming it should have one). I can see a shadow of light through it but there's no hole in it. I would recover it if I knew if it would work.

Really appreciate any help!
 
Mad Professor

Mad Professor

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I think used is the only source. I think the 010 and 011 use the same pump.

2019 stihl price list does not have the diaphragm/plunger listed 1120 640 3100.

A thin film of something like shoegoo might be a temporary fix?

If you locate a source for aftermarket or NOS let me know, I've got a good running 009 too.
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

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Good luck finding a new one on this side of the pond. My Stihl dealer told me 5 years back that they would soon be NLA so I bought all he could find for me, that totalled six sourcing them from 3 different distributors.
 
hotshot

hotshot

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Post some close up pics of both sides of the pintle rod attachment mount.

I & others have rebuilt over 30 of the worn out Poulan Super 25 oiler diaphragms, so let’s see if it’s possible to rebuild a Stihl 009 with a dollars worth of new diaphragm material, lol.

Some cannot be rebuilt, it’s s case by case basis, as the suppliers had overcrimped the buttons on them.

A061691F-1F99-4BA9-898F-013050656078.jpeg
59701C66-1305-47F0-A61E-191D4016D56E.jpeg 471AF033-2433-42C9-AFBA-1F09B7DA7719.jpeg
 
hotshot

hotshot

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Looks like the same crimp type as the little Poulans. Measure the pin protrusion with dial calipers & then drive it out. Measure the thickness of the material too.

Then use needle nose or electricians pliers to evenly squeeze the button’s crimp in/down/smaller, working all the way around, until you can separate the washer off. Be careful not to crush it into the pin hole...take your time. Should be easy, as you said the Stihl button is aluminum.

The Poulans are steel.

It’s nitrile applied onto a nylon or cotton weave material, but not sure what the Germans used back then. So google “nitrile” for one of the many chemical compatibility charts to see what doesn’t attack it.

I know it’s fine with gas & oil, but is not with most acids, acetone or ethanol. Any automotive degreaser should be fine to clean & rinse it.
 
August1959

August1959

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Update - Didn't anyone to think I umped on here and got what I needed and left. I had an illness (not Covid) then changes at work got me side tracked. I'm still have to get the pin out. Tried a punch, but it's a tad to blunt on the end, so I scrounged up awl and going try it.

I'm ordering the nitrile material that @hotshot found on ebay. I got a quote from a shop in Belarus for .2mm Nitrile diaphragm material x 1000mm x 1400mm for 110.00 Euro (approx. $126), but I believe that's too thin plus that's a lot of diaphragms. Just throwing that out there in case someone might have a use for it. I also looked at Lowes and Home Depot for some type of spray, dip or etc... as @Mad Professor had suggested. Even looked at Flex Seal, but I don't think it's solvent resistant.

I should be able to get back on it in a couple of weeks when I have to do some work on my Husqvarna push mower.

If anyone should have an alternate solution or idea please chime in or anyone that just happen to have ran across an oiler diaphragm for an 009, 010 or 011 (I think they're all the same)

Below is an email exchange with Stihl Customer Service:

CS Rep: The 009L chainsaw discontinued production 15 years ago in 2005. Industry standards dictate that we produce parts for our discontinued units for 10 years after production stoppage. After part production ceases, the parts are available until stock is depleted.

My reply:

That's a little disconcerting as I always thought Stihl products to be above and beyond industry standards. Industry standards is a very low bar to associate with. Anyway, I still like my Stihl products and hope to enjoy them for a lot longer than 10 years.
 
trains

trains

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@hotshot - Close up's attached. I finished removing old gasket and cleaned it a little. I'm not sure if the glossy finish and the black material remaining is leftover rubber or possibly tree resin that may have gotten on it.

View attachment 833060 View attachment 833061 View attachment 833062
what is the thickness of the gasket, I can appreciate its compressed a bit over time, but can you put a set of verniers over it and give us the thickness of the material ?

I dont want to take apart a working one and risk it becoming non working.
Still trying to find someone that supplies small sheets of nitrile rubber in AU.
 
Mad Professor

Mad Professor

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Diaphragm Material, Fabric Reinforced Nitrile Sheet

This one could be a winner! comes in 0.8 mm too

Carburettor & Fuel Pump Diaphragm Nitrile Sheet fabric reinforced 1.5mm thick, sold per Square Inch P/N 900.NDS1.5


This Diaphragm Sheet is premium grade 70 Duro Nitrile with special woven Nylon fabric reinforcing to withstand constant flexing in temperatures from – 42º C to +100º C.

Specifically for the manufacture of diaphragms in carburettors and fuel pumps, this particular Nitrile material is resistant to fuels and lubricants including all grades of petrol,
Avgas, blended ethanol petrol fuels, distilate, LPG, kerosene, lubricating oils and greases, many solvents associated with fuel. Methanol resistance is rated as 3 – medium.

Suitable for fuel and vacuum diaphragms and can be used as reinforced fuel and oil resistant jointing in appropriate applications

900.NDS1.5 is 1.5mm or 0.064" thick, can be supplied up to 12" x 12" square.
 
Mad Professor

Mad Professor

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An idea for a fix, given nitrile fabric material I posted above.

1) carefully measure position of diaphragm on shaft.

2) Remove both crimp washers, save cup washers.

3) Thread shaft to accept nuts below inner crimp washer.

4) Cut out diaphragm gasket.

5) thread on 1st nut to shaft, add cup washer, check position of cup washer adjust if needed, install diaphragm 2nd cup washer, 2nd nut.

6) recheck position of assy.

7) note: outer nut will have to be of size to work with corresponding spring ( #23 IPL), If not a larger dia spring may be needed.

Note : I will try this myself, it is my intellectual property that I will share here. If the above is used commercially for profit I reserve my rights to require said device be aviallable to all for non-profit. Anybody here want to work on this, with "us", for a fix fine, public domain not for profit
 
Earthman58

Earthman58

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Wenhaston
Just wanted to put it out there. This has been and still is a great saw. I kept everything in good shape except the oil pump should have been cleaned more often, but it never failed to oil the chain very well.

Anyone know any place foreign or domestic that may have this part? OEM or aftermarket? Used? Does anyone make these? Is there a chainsaw junkyard anywhere? I will buy the whole pump if I can find one.

The old diaphragm doesn't have a hole in it, but it looks as if the rubber over the membrane is partially gone (I'm assuming it should have one). I can see a shadow of light through it but there's no hole in it. I would recover it if I knew if it would work.

Really appreciate any help
If anyone is still following this thread, there seems to be some pretty folksy and desperate solutions suggested over the years. The original 09, 010, 011, 012 oiler diaphragm assembly is not designed to be disassembled and good luck to anyone who tries to accurately hand cut a Nylon reinforced NBR diaphragm every time one is needed.

The oiler assembly and inlet diaphragm (reed valve) are the two key parts that only very rarely turn up as NOS items and I suspect have prematurely ended the life of many good saws. Owners should be aware that any saw still with an original Reed Valve can be at risk of cylinder and piston damage when the Aluminum rivets suddenly fail and the metal parts drop into a nicely revving engine! This can be sorted by replacing the rivets with blind Stainless alternatives; I have already lost two cylinders/saws before I realized that this was not a random and isolated event.

I am awaiting the manufactured component parts of a re-designed diaphragm and plunger assembly to allow both the re-use of existing pins and easy replacement of diaphragms subsequently, without throwing away the rest of the plunger. To this end, I suggest that anyone with an old oiler assembly hangs onto it whilst I to run some short term tests on the new core and diaphragm component, as the original pin is a specific diameter and length and I have still to determine if a standard length pin will do the same job. If my new design proves successful, I will initially sell the components for owners to add the recycled pin from their old oiler.

Lets keep these fantastic little machines working for a while yet.
 
a937539

a937539

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Mar 22, 2021
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Want to add my 2cense on this. I came across one of these old saws with a faulty pump gasket. I found a large tecumseh diaphragm gasket. Seems to be the same/similar material. I drove out the pin and drilled out the aluminum squash rivet and kept the cups. Tomorrow I'm going to attempt to put this back together and see if it works. Still needs to be air tight.
 
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