026 Grief

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Stihl makes a puller but it's too pricy for me...
I brought one and couldn’t agree more, such a high price for what it is. However I have used it a good 20 times + so far and it’s lovely to have, especially for these pesky seals.

OP, being a small tricky seal, i’d suggest just taking it to your local shop, they’ll have the tool and it’ll be out in a flash. Have everything ready to go so they can literally install the tool and pop it out. Take before photos though!! Someone recently got a hack job at their local shop! Or ask to watch ;)
 
It took a while for my gasket kit to come in but I finally had a crack at the seals today.

I ground a tool out of a screwdriver - thanks again Ronie & A Palmer Jr for the instructions! I thought it was going so well, but once the seal came out, I noticed I put a couple dents in the outside chamfer (crankcase?). I don't think I marred up the crankshaft, and it looks like the dents in the crankcase are well outside where the seal seats, but will those dents cause other problems or should I be okay to replace the seal as-is?
 

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It took a while for my gasket kit to come in but I finally had a crack at the seals today.

I ground a tool out of a screwdriver - thanks again Ronie & A Palmer Jr for the instructions! I thought it was going so well, but once the seal came out, I noticed I put a couple dents in the outside chamfer (crankcase?). I don't think I marred up the crankshaft, and it looks like the dents in the crankcase are well outside where the seal seats, but will those dents cause other problems or should I be okay to replace the seal as-is?
As Al has said, it’s fine. A thin smear of Dirko on the seal for reassurance :

Watch from 9 mins to see me install seals into a very damaged pocket (not damaged by me!)

 
Thanks for the great video! Good info re the Dirko. I can't seem to find any available locally, is there another sealant that would work in this application? It looks like it may be available from a stihl dealer - I can try calling them Monday, though I'm already in way over my spending limit on resurrecting this saw so if there is a less expensive/more readily available option that would be nice...

I tried to get the key out when I took the flywheel off, but it wouldn't budge at all so I assumed that it was one piece with the crankshaft - are they removable on all versions of this saw? If so, any tips on removing a stuck one? - I just resorted to trying pliers this morning, but it still wouldn't budge and the pliers were starting to strip steel from the key...
 
Thanks for the great video! Good info re the Dirko. I can't seem to find any available locally, is there another sealant that would work in this application? It looks like it may be available from a stihl dealer - I can try calling them Monday, though I'm already in way over my spending limit on resurrecting this saw so if there is a less expensive/more readily available option that would be nice...

I tried to get the key out when I took the flywheel off, but it wouldn't budge at all so I assumed that it was one piece with the crankshaft - are they removable on all versions of this saw? If so, any tips on removing a stuck one? - I just resorted to trying pliers this morning, but it still wouldn't budge and the pliers were starting to strip steel from the key...

There are literally thousands of saws out there getting along just fine with correctly installed "dry" oil seals- you do not NEED Dirko or similar, some use it for peace of mind and added insurance for older case pockets, but easier would be a fine smear of aerobic liquid sealer applied with a qtip, installed into a degreased pocket- or just fit the seals dry.

Before anyone rushes out to make a video on the subject- your key is a woodruff- try google search for an explanation and or how to remove- but basically it is a semi circular male key in a matching rounded female receiver- tap one side down and the other side pops up- if stubborn, a small lever in the form of a thin blade flathead screwdriver can help, or a fine pin punch.
Pulling a woodruff directly up with pliers or locking jaw pliers usually ends up mashing the key face- as you are starting to discover.
New key's from your Stihl dealer are not bank breakers.
 
Try using a pair of sharp side cutters to grasp the key as close to the crankshaft as possible then pry/push down on the handle side first of the cutters. If no work, then try again but pry/pull up on handles of cutters. You must keep the cutter handles as tight as possible. If the key starts to move a bit, then stop and re-position again closer to the crank and repeat several times if needed. Leverage is the, (pun intended), key here! LOL
 
Yikes. The seal install seemed to go well. The woodruff key put up more of a fight than I expected but eventually came out without chewing it up too badly. Put the seal in with s think smear of RTV on the outside for insurance. Retested for pressure and vacuum and both held with no leak at all so I was hopeful.

But when I put the saw back together, adjusted the screws to spec and refuelled the tank, it is idling erratically again, sometimes racing when tipped on its side, and taking a second or so to come up to full throttle. I guess the next step is to empty the tank again, pull the carb and pressure/vac test again to check whether the seal opened up a bit once the saw got put back together and shook around a bit? If pressure/vac is still good, then I imagine trying carb replacement is the next step?

Was also wondering if it might just need to be run for a tank or so to break things in. Unfortunately I won't likely get the chance to do that for another month or so.

Was hoping to get the saw running again to sell it as a running saw as opposed to a project saw, but I fear I'm sitting pretty close to the break-even point between those two outcomes...

To summarize so far, I've:
  • Replaced fuel & impulse lines, fuel filter, & spark plug
  • Full carb cleanout and installed carb kit from dealer
  • Replace leaking flywheel side oil seal.
 
Yikes. The seal install seemed to go well. The woodruff key put up more of a fight than I expected but eventually came out without chewing it up too badly. Put the seal in with s think smear of RTV on the outside for insurance. Retested for pressure and vacuum and both held with no leak at all so I was hopeful.

But when I put the saw back together, adjusted the screws to spec and refuelled the tank, it is idling erratically again, sometimes racing when tipped on its side, and taking a second or so to come up to full throttle. I guess the next step is to empty the tank again, pull the carb and pressure/vac test again to check whether the seal opened up a bit once the saw got put back together and shook around a bit? If pressure/vac is still good, then I imagine trying carb replacement is the next step?

Was also wondering if it might just need to be run for a tank or so to break things in. Unfortunately I won't likely get the chance to do that for another month or so.

Was hoping to get the saw running again to sell it as a running saw as opposed to a project saw, but I fear I'm sitting pretty close to the break-even point between those two outcomes...

To summarize so far, I've:
  • Replaced fuel & impulse lines, fuel filter, & spark plug
  • Full carb cleanout and installed carb kit from dealer
  • Replace leaking flywheel side oil seal.
Did you set the metering lever height correctly when you installed the new kit? Time to check the nozzel check valve in the carb too. If that leaks, you’ll be getting air in the metering chamber and you’ll have the symptoms you’re experiencing. Another opportunity to use your mityvac!

Setting the screws to spec isn’t where the saw is intended to run and often times is set too lean. It could be a simple case of needing to tune it properly.

what does the piston look like through the exhaust port?

 

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