028 Hard to cold start

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DanAyo

ArboristSite Member
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You gotta love spell correct! The subject should read, “028 Hard to Cold Start”. (I can’t find a way to edit the subject line.) Is this possible?

It looks like the butterfly on the carb is very slightly opened when in the choke position. Once the master control is moved to the run position the butterfly closes completely. Recently had the chainsaw disassembled and the engine passed vacuum/pressure test, that included both the intake manifole and the impulse line. I think I know the problem.

On cold start when my wife plugs the carb throat with her finger it pops right away.

Also (another issue that may be related), once the engine pops and the control is set to the run position, it is much easier to start if I tilt my foot in the handle to move the throttle level to full speed.

Is it possible the small black plastic rod that is controlled by the master control is bad?
 
You gotta love spell correct! The subject should read, “028 Hard to Cold Start”. (I can’t find a way to edit the subject line.) Is this possible?

It looks like the butterfly on the carb is very slightly opened when in the choke position. Once the master control is moved to the run position the butterfly closes completely. Recently had the chainsaw disassembled and the engine passed vacuum/pressure test, that included both the intake manifole and the impulse line. I think I know the problem.

On cold start when my wife plugs the carb throat with her finger it pops right away.

Also (another issue that may be related), once the engine pops and the control is set to the run position, it is much easier to start if I tilt my foot in the handle to move the throttle level to full speed.

Is it possible the small black plastic rod that is controlled by the master control is bad?
Title changed.
 
Thanks Pioneer!

The flap is not well aligned. I’ll try heat.
I did learn why the stop position doesn’t always work. The brass barrel was unsoldered from the ground wire.
A few small aliments has laid so many of these saws up as most shops I know of won`t touch them anymore, most OEM parts for them have become NLA from Stihl , the shops just want to sell a new saw to anyone bringing in old saws to get repaired. I take them in and fix what`s needed to get them running again, they get a second life for local firewood cutters.
 
“Peyronies disease”
Might be. I removed the curve and first attempts to start were promising. Choked, pulled, started - COLD.

I’ll keep trying cold to see if the fix worked and is permanent.

Thanks Pioneer & Harley!
I really like this saw. It’s part of the family… AND, it looks so cool.
 
I have found putting new original Stihl air filter assembly on works best for choke operation and taking pliers to straighten the throttle rod slightly at the 2 -90* bends to make faster idle a little higher
 

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