Before you put any work into the piston I would measure the piston/cylinder gap at the bottom of the piston skirt. Too much gap and you will need a new piston. I would also measure the ring end gap in the cylinder.
Also, after using ANY abrasive on a cylinder i.e. Scotchbrite or sandpaper be sure to THOROUGHLY clean the cylinder with dish soap and hot water to remove any leftover traces of abrasive.
I run mine through the dishwasher. Wife hasn't killed me so far.
Customer / friend has a MS360 PRO with a bad engine. He wants it back running. I am seeing Farmtec engine assemblies already in the chassis for $200. He won't go for all OEM, and the labor involved. Anyone used one of these after-market cradles, ready for clutch and flywheel?You can still get new oem pistons for about 90 bucks, get a zama parts kit for the carb, the top carb cover likes to accumulate sawdust fines through the diaphragm breather hole. I have found more than one with stuck gummy rings or rings that have lost their spring tension that would start run a few then shut off when returning to idle. My 034 super had a start then shut off issue that turned out to be a warped carb cover causing air to be sucked into the fuel pump. Pressure test the carb, pressure test the fuel tank then vac test it to test the vent. Stihl fuel filters can look clean but can be restricted, with a old soft fuel hose it can cause it to be sucked flat shutting fuel off. Even a old worn out plug can cause shut offs after it gets some heat into it. ms360, 036, 034 super is arguably the best 60cc saws stihl has ever made, when ported they become a Tasmanian wood devil. Use all oem parts on it and it will go another 30+ years, stay away from aftermarket engine parts because they are just not the same quality or provide the same performance. If you plan to us it for a everyday work horse get and install the updated clutch/bearing/rim/clutch drum setup. They make so much power for a 60cc that the original small clutch needle bearing will fail and it can wipe out the oil pump and possibly the case. I loved my first one so much I built 2 more and keep one extra of everything
If your not building the base send it back. It is not worth the trouble you might be incurring. It needs to be split or at the least inspected with the cylinder off.
I'm confused. I asked.....has anyone bought an aftermarket engine assembly, in chassis....put the rest of the saw back together, and had an problems with its operation.....as in, Fired Up!
Oh yeah years ago though. No issues with 036/360 blocks that I know of. Never was to my knowledge. I wouldn't use the piston or wrist pin clips now days knowing what we know about parts being cheap. The rings are a crap shoot. In the beginning only two companies sold shortblocks back then. So one used better parts and cost double. They were about $105 last time I bought one. Quite a while ago. Probably $160 now days. That said I still won't run somebody else's assessment and assemblies now. Most things leave here ported or heavy mods so it's not worth the trouble it may cause to not inspect the block with the jug off and change out to a Meteor kit.
Give it back and have him go look at new saws, when the chicom block fails he will be right back at your shop crying and its not worth the chance of failures.
Bad Engine.
