038 can/will/does NOT oil!

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Bally1020

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Hello fellow chainsaw users.

I am aware there ar other posts on this topic and i think i have read hem all. The crucial ones do not display the images i need to see, ideally. So my apologies for starting a new thread but it's been months now anc money spent and days wasted trying to fix this thjng I never get angry and I am very patient but this problem has had me red faced and and about to snap!

I hope you can see my pics.
Changed oil pump. I know this one works and so did the last one probably, because if i fill up the hole on one side of the pump and spin the gear on it the oil sucks in and if i keep adding then it comes out the other hole.

Tank to pump vent definitely free and clear. If i puff it with compressed air it makes a ton of oil spew out.

Pump to oiler hole tube i thought was clogged but finally i have an air compressor and blowing o it i see air comung out the other end in the bubble form so it must be clear even to some extent. Last time i put the pump on i span it with a drill and got a trickle of oil then bubbles out of the chain hole but upon running No Oil came out!!

New plastic drive gear, gear in pump looks good and looks like the
Questions i have are
- Does the gasket ( i use a new one it fits and is not bent) have to be put on dry? And what torque do the pump bolts require? Looking at the way it works, oil comes out of the tank tube to a kind of concave channel that sits under the pump gasket, and then flows down to the pump inlet hole down this channel. It seems like a poor design kind of. Because any pressure will make it squeeze out of this channel an under the gasket behind the oil pump. But what do i know? I do know that the Pump must be fairly tight in order for this channel to be sealed nicely. I swear that when i took them off they were pretty tight but that was a long time ago that i took it off the first time!

I fill the pump with oil by running it in my hand and syringing oil in the inlet hole before reassembly.
I cant seem to get oil in the port by the chain but i would like to pour it in the chain outlet hole and watch it dribble out the hole where the pump spits it out. That would be promising!!

Question 2..... i cant see exactly where the hole goes if i look in the hole by the chain outlet. It does look like its been drilled upon manufacture.. Comparing to the massive port on my stihl 026 this one appears the same or smaller.
Is it possible for me to drill it deeper and or wider? Perhaps the technician did not drill deep enough?
As i said it is definitely a clear passage to some extent. I just wonder if i can make it bigger and a definite clear round hole shape. I cant see a round clear hole using a magnifying glass. Some kind of hole though, i think!!! tricky....If i drill is there a danger i might hit something else? Im talking a very small amount of drilling.

What else. That little valve has a pin head ball in it that moves freely. I think when i blew compressed air at it it pressurized the tank and oil came out of the tank to pump tube hole. I assume the valve works since it moves freely in and out.

The yellow o ring slips over the shaft in the oil pump i think. The drive sprocket fits snug. Any parts missing?

Any ideas anyone? Im about ready to redesign the entire saw in some probably crude way and cut my own tubes ! At least it would oil then!
Thanks you guys. Not sure if pics help but.... Aside from this problem I love this saw it starts fine and it's an animal. Thinking of becomung a distributor. Their chains cut insanely well also.

Going to reassemble now and tighten the pump bolts tight! and fill pump with oil. and try and put oil in the last tube again. So tired of this routine . More than ten times probably. I just wanna cut some wood! Thank you very much to anyone replying

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I would suggest focusing on the oil pump as your problem, drilling holes bigger wont make any difference at all.
The yellow "O" ring you call it is really a plastic pressure washer, it goes on to the gear axle before you mount the linear gear on to it like you suggested.
When you run the saw without the bar on it the oil might come out the oiler channel in pulses so it may not look like it works if you don't rev the saw continuously for a little time like half throttle at 30 seconds perhaps.
I assume both of the oiler pumps you have tried is "farmertec", the one that came with my blue 038 mag did not work at all. The others I bought was pretty much just as bad - no oil on the bar / lotsa oil in the clutch compartment.
I ended up modifying the oil pump but I'm not sure I could recommend doing that because I actually ended up putting quite some work in to it, I can explain how to do that if you really want to go that route.
I would recommend to buy a Hyway oil pump for it (new gasket), it has significantly better machined parts in it - looks more like an oem pump on the inside.

The only problems I had to overcome with the blue ready assembled 038 mag was the oiler pump and the clutch springs, and the guidebar studs are too soft.
The clutch springs and guidebar studs/bolts you just use until (if) they fail, then you replace them with oem parts or perhaps Hyway.
If the chain no longer stop moving at idle no matter how low it's set you know one of the 3 clutch springs have broken, if you tighten the guidebar nuts too much the threads will give in.

It's a sweet powerful saw with lotsa good ol fashion tourque at the whole rpm range - and an incredibly fuel consumption... it sure is thirsty. Excellent for milling up to 20" of hardwood and up to 24" as a possibility.
The kit version is a different story - it's based on some different parts and I would not recommend it, not sure if that's because the parts for the assembled version is specially selected or if it's just a different production.
 
Hummmm.... quality Chinesium there!!!

My 30 year old 038M and 038S--> 038M conversions never had a problem with oiling. Worst was a leak, when not running, that replacing the sealing ring and/or O-rings fixed.

I got those saws for free, then rebuilt with NOS/OEM parts for < a Chi-Com copy...........with no headaches either!!!
 
Hummmm.... quality Chinesium there!!!

My 30 year old 038M and 038S--> 038M conversions never had a problem with oiling. Worst was a leak, when not running, that replacing the sealing ring and/or O-rings fixed.

I got those saws for free, then rebuilt with NOS/OEM parts for < a Chi-Com copy...........with no headaches either!!!

Yeah, rub it in. The 038 was probably never sold in my corner of the sphere. I did find an original 381 crankcase in Malaisia but they didn't ship abroad.
I now have an account on a Malaysian trading web site and don't understand a word they're saying...

You definitely made a word for the books there however; Chinesium is the new loud :cheers:
 
Yeah, rub it in. The 038 was probably never sold in my corner of the sphere. I did find an original 381 crankcase in Malaisia but they didn't ship abroad.
I now have an account on a Malaysian trading web site and don't understand a word they're saying...

You definitely made a word for the books there however; Chinesium is the new loud :cheers:

I'm sure Stihl sold many 038 in Norway. They are are found on every continent with trees.
 
The oil pump sealing ring looks like a POS (made from a slice of plastic from a beverage bottle?) , as does the foam rubber POS that the Chi-Coms use to replace the rubber grommet on the oil adjustment screw....

Makes me wonder what the inside of the pump and o-rings look like?

Did the chain get thrown? Or does it not run well past the side plate? My 30 year old OEM ones don't have slices in them like that.
 
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