050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[mojo jojo]

here are four random 051 AV (source_various internet pages)

pic no1...I think all saws with this starter cover have points
pic no2...saws with this starter cover have electronic ignition
pic no3...this one I dont know
pic no4... probably not original combination of starter cover and air filter cover

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The first three would be points. If you believe the top cover, the last one would be electronic, albeit still an external trigger unit type setup.

 

[mojo jojo]

The second one has sticker "electronic"

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Indeed it does! So much for the early logo on the starter assembly being an indicator. As previously mentioned, the only way to conclusively determine what type of ignition is on the saw is to pull the recoil and check what's actually there. Wires going behind the flywheel are a pretty good sign that there is a set of breaker points underneath it unless they've been snipped in favor of a chip installed somewhere.

 

[mojo jojo]

So I picked up 051 AV for 50€. Once I tested the spark, I knew it has points ignition. You could weld with that spark Later at home I took it apart and confirmed points ignition.
It has very low hours...probably went thru 2 or 3 chains.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Very nice. Congratulations.

 

[tspeedle]

So I picked up 051 AV for 50€. Once I tested the spark, I knew it has points ignition. You could weld with that spark Later at home I took it apart and confirmed points ignition.
It has very low hours...probably went thru 2 or 3 chains.

You suck! [emoji44]

Honestly, where do you find such a saw for that kind of money?

 

[mojo jojo]

You suck! [emoji44]

Honestly, where do you find such a saw for that kind of money?

sold as a non runner...disintegrated fuel line

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

 

[rarefish383]

I’ve got what I’m told is an 075, buy the thumb oiler on the handle bar. I put it in the want adds a couple months ago. I’m calling it a parts saw. It’s locked up. First 50 bucks plus shipping gets it. I’ll post more pics as soon as I get to my computer. First PM gets first choice. Thanks, Joe.

 

[Atom]

Hey guys, will you be mad if I ask a noob question without reading all 75 pages?!

 

[bulletpruf]

Go ahead and ask, @Atom.

 

[Atom]

Is there a place that will walk me through splitting the case. I bought a 051 to learn how to restore my grandfather's 051 to give to my Dad. Want to reseal and check the bottom end and also repaint both of them.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Start with getting the IPL for the saws,repair manual if you can.

 

[bulletpruf]

Splitting the case isn't difficult. Two ways to go about it - use a case splitter or heat + hammer with soft head. The common case splitters need to be bent slightly to fit into the crankcase.

You should be able to find Youtube videos on both courses of action.

Holler if you have any questions.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You should find the links below helpful. And there are more than two ways to split the case, but please, no hammers!





There is a wealth of great information in this thread if you take the time to go through it. Many of the earlier pics are gone, but they pick back up as the thread progresses.

Don't hesitate to ask questions. That's what it's all about.

 

[TRTermite]

sold as a non runner...disintegrated fuel line

I bought a 056 Super as a Parts saw. Dealer stated it was locked up. Found an Lshaped allen wrench and a bunch of broken fan wheel fins in the recoil cover. Great saw.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Is there a place that will walk me through....

BTW, you're in the right place.

 

[Atom]

Yeah I know, I was here a few years back, actually pogo I have watched moat of your videos on youtube, but had two boys in the mean time. Just getting back into it now.

Do you have any links for tools for splitting the case and for the clutch removal?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You can spend some money on case tools. Just Google 'Stihl Case Splitter' and you'll see the general selection. I have the 'C' style Husky splitter which handles most jobs after the forks are spread slightly to fit over larger Stihl crank lobes as previously mentioned. On the other hand, it can be too big to sneak into some cases -- 041s for example. The 'L' shaped style with the additional attachments is probably the most versatile as it can also be used to pull cranks back into cases. They've been in short supply on the aftermarket due to Covid but seem to be coming back. Prices vary on those. I've had one on my list for awhile. The Stihl disk style is just a bizarre 'all-in-one' attempt at a cheaper puller for all their saws. The issue with those is having all the right bolts and figuring out the correct pattern for any particular saw -- and there are a couple versions of those last time I checked.

All that said, fashioning a basic splitter is butt simple and can easily be made with material you probably already have laying around. Angle iron, flat stock, 'c' channel..., anything rigid enough to not flex or bend. The example below is just a piece of uni-strut. Not the strongest way to go. but worked in a pinch when the Husky splitter wouldn't fit. I've since made another one from 1/4" aluminum 'c' channel that's much stronger. Some washers/spacers, a cheapie two-jaw puller and you're all set. Just a redneck version of the $100 'L' style.

Once the case is split, then you can use a hammer (or preferably a press) to remove the crank from the remaining case half. I'm just not a fan of pounding a case apart when other less aggressive methods are available. If you do use a hammer to knock the crank out, take appropriate measures to not whack the threads..., a block or the clutch nut threaded on flush with the crank stub should suffice.

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As for the clutch, I have the spanner set for the different sizes of clutches used on this era of saws. The one below just happens to fit a Homelite clutch, too. A piece of pipe may be necessary as a breaker bar to loosen the clutch. When they have them, I secure saws with stubborn clutches in a vise by their bucking spike to get more leverage on the spanner. A propane torch to heat the clutch carrier can come in handy as well. Using a punch and a hammer will almost guarantee you'll break shoes or the carrier.

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