066 Mill help

[tugmyroo]

Hello hopefully you can help me with my problem when I start cutting a log the first couple inches of the cut things go as they should but then after about one foot it seems like the saw gets stuck and is unable to cut the wood. It will not bite into it at all. I am using a ripping chain. at first I thought my rackers were too high so I checked them out and they we're fine.

i use wedges as I am cutting. It really seems like the saw is binding sometimes there are even some Sparks from the chain in the bar. As I move the saw out so it's cutting more to the tip it seems to bite into the log better I know I'm not explaining this very well but I don't know how else to say it.

I don't know if it's a problem with the chain or the bar I just bought a new clutch hoping it would solve the issue but of course it didn't. Also I had to replace my chain tensioner because it broke I don't know if that is a symptom from whatever problem I'm dealing with now.

Tomorrow I'm going to put my bar and chain on my MS660 and see if it cuts fine if it does then there's something wrong with this saw but if it's the same problem and has to do with my bar and chain. Has anyone experienced this before thank you for your help


Things that I have checked

The chain sharpness

The clutch

Rackers

I give it a thorough clean and go over fuel filters ect..

 

[jeff taswelder]

Welcome to AS
is the mill home made or a manufactured one.
sounds like your bar might not be parallel with the runners of the mill.
worth looking at.
if it was out a little bit that wood make it bind in no time .

 

[scheffa]

I would try dressing the bar and make sure the cutters are the same length both sides, try cutting a cookie with that bar and chain and make sure it is cutting straight. Have had this happen to me before when using long bars, after a while the rails wear and it pulls the saw up or down in the cut

 

[backwoodsman42]

I agree with scheffa. Check the bar. Make sure it is square with no burrs. Either one will cause the bar to drift in the cut.

 

[tugmyroo]

Welcome to AS
is the mill home made or a manufactured one.
sounds like your bar might not be parallel with the runners of the mill.
worth looking at.
if it was out a little bit that wood make it bind in no time .View attachment 510271

Thanks for the responses I bought my chainsaw and mill second hand it is a granberg alaskan mk iii chainsaw mill the first log I cut with it a while ago cut without any problems. sorry jeff what are the runners the mill? I'm not up to date on all the terminology

I would try dressing the bar and make sure the cutters are the same length both sides, try cutting a cookie with that bar and chain and make sure it is cutting straight. Have had this happen to me before when using long bars, after a while the rails wear and it pulls the saw up or down in the cut

I'm using a 32 inch STIHL bar that came with the saw when i bought it. and an oregon ripping chain I replaced the tip and the sprocket - 3/8 because .404 is it getting harder to find around here.

Is it possible for me to crosscut to see how true the chain is cutting with a ripping chain? I'll have a closer look at my chain tonight using a caliper. I use a sharpening guide and I count my strokes but i know it is possible for me to pushing harder on one side than the other. When you say rails do you mean where the chain rides in? Thanks for your responses

 

[IyaMan]

Yes, check to see if the chain is evenly sharp on both sides (and the rakers are the same depth). Previously I noticed that when hand filing I often applied more pressure to one side due to the way my arm moved, thereby causing uneven wear in the long run between the two sides, and this caused the chain to pull the bar out of level in the cut such that the bar began curving and pinching itself.

Look to see if the cutters are all the same length and angle (you should be using a file guide, not free-hand. Accuracy really makes a difference).

 

[tugmyroo]

Tonight I tried out my bar and chain on the 660 and I encountered the same problem this which means it's definitely a bar or chain issue. I'm leaning more towards the chain.

I took some pictures of what it looks like when it cuts. The Deep grooves in the log is where the saw gets stuck. It's almost like the chain is diving. I did dress the bar and gave it an eyeball it looks okay then again I'm not that experienced.

I am trying to stay away from the dealership because they charge $100 an hour hopefully a chain sharpening won't break the bank. I'll keep everybody posted on the outcome

 

[wombler]

That just looks like you're "seesawing" the mill down the log, because the scuff marks are at all sorts of different angles. Try keeping the bar straight across the log, and (if necessary) just applying a small amount of pressure to keep the thing feeding. You don't even need that if your chain is sharp and properly adjusted (rakers, etc) and you've got a good downslope on the log. It looks like you're milling on the ground, which is a great way to make everything hurt; prop up the upwind end so the top of the log is just below chest height, the downwind end so it's at waist height, and you'll find everything goes so much easier.

 

[scheffa]

If the bar was originally for .404 chain there is a good chance the 3/8 chain is the wrong gauge causing slop in the bar which which will cause what you have explained

 

[scheffa]

Also when you have a surface like you do there I would be using the rails you use for your first again, trying to push a mill over a wavy surface like that will only compound your problems

 

[wombler]

If the bar was originally for .404 chain there is a good chance the 3/8 chain is the wrong gauge

The pitch and gauge of the chain aren't particularly related; I've got .063 gauge chain in both 3/8 and .404 (I've even run both on the same hard-nose bar). If it's a .404 sprocket tip bar, slop would be the least of his problems if he's running 3/8 on it...

 

[backwoodsman42]

If the chain and bar are both matching gauge. 3/8ths chain comes in 0.50, 0.58 and 0.63 Then the bar could be worn. The rails can be out of square or the rails could be spreading. I've ran into this problem before with my mill. I replaced the bar and chain. That fixed it.

 

[rupedoggy]

Quit messing around and get a new bar. Your old one is worn out, Mike

 

[IyaMan]

I just noticed that this was posted on the "chainsaw" forum. You may want to repost in the "milling" forum with a more accurate title for some more feedback if you can't solve this. Some of the big milling guys (like BobL) may be able to help out.

 

[scheffa]

The pitch and gauge of the chain aren't particularly related; I've got .063 gauge chain in both 3/8 and .404 (I've even run both on the same hard-nose bar). If it's a .404 sprocket tip bar, slop would be the least of his problems if he's running 3/8 on it...

Yes your right, however it is a possibility that this may be contributing to the problem, I would dress the bar, check all cutters are the same length, ensure the mill itself doesn't have a small twist in it then go from there.

I have encountered these problems before and they are easy to rectify yet sometimes hard to diagnose.

 

[SEAM]

Also, try to get some "downhill slope" in the cut... I usually place the log so it is a few inches lower at the other end.
Not enough oil will get the chain to stall, usually accompanied by burn marks at the corresponding locations. There are no burn marks visible on the pics, so I suppose the bar/chain did not cut parallel to the upper surface... or the chain got way too loose.

 

[tugmyroo]

Yes, check to see if the chain is evenly sharp on both sides (and the rakers are the same depth). Previously I noticed that when hand filing I often applied more pressure to one side due to the way my arm moved, thereby causing uneven wear in the long run between the two sides, and this caused the chain to pull the bar out of level in the cut such that the bar began curving and pinching itself.

Look to see if the cutters are all the same length and angle (you should be using a file guide, not free-hand. Accuracy really makes a difference).

Thanks for the replies everybody sorry for my late response I was out of town for a while and then one of the brackets on my mill snapped.

But here's an update on cutting issue. After talking to you guys on the forum, I went down to my stihl dealership with my chain and bar.

he examined the bar and chain and told me that my bar Look to be in pretty good shape, besides a small part of the bar that looked like it was pinched at one point. I got this bar second hand so I really don't know the history of it.

Anyways he examed my chain and determine that my angle was more like 0 degrees instead of 10 degrees, which is funny because I use a filing guide so the only thing I can think of is that angle adjustment are off on the guide.

I readjusted the plate angle and took down the rakers the smallest amount, and now it cut through that cedar like a hot knife through butter the boards are beautiful comparable finish to a band mill. So after spending all that money on a clutch and various other things. It turns out it was a simple chain sharpening.

 

[Trx250r180]

Chain prep is very important milling ,glad you got it resolved .