066 rebuild

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

reed1517

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 6, 2022
Messages
38
Reaction score
23
Location
pennsylvania
Lots of people here know a lot more than me about the 064/066 series. I have one of each and have learned much of what I know from them. I too have been forced to learn as I fix all my own saws.

That early 066 should be a great reliable runner if you rebuild it proper with quality/OEM parts.

How does the OEM P/C look? Try to use the original cylinder if it cleans up and looks OK.
both look great. Not sure why the saw wasn’t used anymore. It looks like it was left outside and forgotten. Got very lucky there. Plan on using them both. Just replaced both bearings. Will post pics as I get the saw back together. thank you.
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
13,347
Reaction score
15,430
Location
North East USA
both look great. Not sure why the saw wasn’t used anymore. It looks like it was left outside and forgotten. Got very lucky there. Plan on using them both. Just replaced both bearings. Will post pics as I get the saw back together. thank you.

Posting pictures is great as you get things put back together. It will help others working on the same model saw.

Years back the site crashed and a lot of valuable/useful pictures got lost.

Hope it's ripping wood soon!
 

Lightning Performance

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 30, 2021
Messages
471
Reaction score
281
Location
Cherry Hill
I'm wonder if these flywheels are broached correctly on some models?

Some people purposely make changes like the coil to add ignition retard with less starting advance. Not sure how that shakes out on 1122 models and different coils.

My saw has the same carb box as the OP but a few different bolt on parts. I'd assume they used what they had at the time of these updates and changeover. More than a few have had hard starting issues when things get swapped around and others had no issues. The worst case is mixing the parts to end up with a big timing advance before starting. Have done that once myself so I can see how some would have a big issue getting one fired up.

Do any of these factory installed coils have the timing retard mode?
 

reed1517

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 6, 2022
Messages
38
Reaction score
23
Location
pennsylvania
Update the saw is all back together. It will start very easily and will idle. But will sputter out at wot. I removed the key and have been experimenting with a position that won’t rip my shoulder out when starting. I haven’t found info on how to determine the best flywheel positioning without the key. Could this be causing it to not run at wot?
 

Lightning Performance

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 30, 2021
Messages
471
Reaction score
281
Location
Cherry Hill
Update the saw is all back together. It will start very easily and will idle. But will sputter out at wot. I removed the key and have been experimenting with a position that won’t rip my shoulder out when starting. I haven’t found info on how to determine the best flywheel positioning without the key. Could this be causing it to not run at wot?
Maybe but not likely.
The arm ripper isn't much fun on no decomp button models.

You can always check timing with a timing wheel on the pto side.
Usually they fire about twenty degrees before TDC give or take depending on the coil type.
 

Lightning Performance

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 30, 2021
Messages
471
Reaction score
281
Location
Cherry Hill
Couldn’t if I tried.
But you are running out of fuel to the high speed jet likely caused by a carb leak, bad diaphragm, collapsed or kinked fuel hose, clogged fuel filter or inlet screen or a bad impulse line or signal.
Keep running it like that till you see aluminum on your spark plug.
GL
 

reed1517

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 6, 2022
Messages
38
Reaction score
23
Location
pennsylvania
Think the tank vent would have anything to do with it? I’ve been trying to find the correct one. Ended up with the little red cone thingie. I’ll rip apart carb and check impulse.
 

reed1517

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 6, 2022
Messages
38
Reaction score
23
Location
pennsylvania
But you are running out of fuel to the high speed jet likely caused by a carb leak, bad diaphragm, collapsed or kinked fuel hose, clogged fuel filter or inlet screen or a bad impulse line or signal.
Keep running it like that till you see aluminum on your spark plug.
GL
But seriously I only revved it up like that for purpose of the video.
 

singinwoodwackr

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
5,335
Reaction score
10,235
Location
Free State of Idaho
Got it up and running. Another thorough cleaning of the carb and it’s good to go. Don’t know what I missed when I rebuilt it.
did you clean it in a tank?...ultrasonic...
I was surprised the small particulate crap that came out of a carb I thought I'd cleaned with just carb cleaner and blowing it out.
 

reed1517

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 6, 2022
Messages
38
Reaction score
23
Location
pennsylvania
It’s cutting good and strong. Just one question about the motor noise. I’ve done a lot of bigger husky saws and the motor isn’t as noisy. This is my first bigger Stihl rebuild. Are they usually this noisy ? Its original piston and cylinder cleaned up. I was thinking of swapping out the piston to see if it’s the piston causing the noise. I had a 288 and a 394 that both sounded cleaner after a piston swap
View attachment IMG_1415.MOV
 

Latest posts

Top