076 for chainsaw milling

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

Aussie076

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Leeton NSW
Hi all.....I'm just getting started into chainsaw milling.....and I love it.

What's everyone thoughts and tips for using a Stihl 076 Super for chainsaw milling?

Cheers
Royden
 

BobL

No longer addicted to AS
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
7,980
Reaction score
4,209
Location
Perth, Australia
I milled about 50 logs with an 076.
This was the first log I milled with it, a short Liquid Amber
Maidenv.jpg
Pros:
loads of grunt
exhaust located away from log side - this means the exhaust gas doesn't bounce off the log and up into operators face

Cons
Chains adjustment position is awkward
Can't add fuel easily up while in cut position
Inboard sprocket - not easy to change drive sprockets quickly

I now use an 880 on my bigger mills. I've kept the 076 as a reserve saw but haven used it for about 12 years.
Cut speed is not that different in <30" diameter logs.
Wholesaw.jpg
 

Aussie076

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Leeton NSW
Thanks Bob

I think there a great saw, however you do raise great points,

Did you use an aux oiler or was the saws output enough?

Here's some pic of my first slabs with the 076.
 

Attachments

  • 20220626_135602.jpg
    20220626_135602.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
  • 20220625_145634.jpg
    20220625_145634.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 0

stihltech

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Mar 23, 2002
Messages
2,581
Reaction score
333
Location
western NY
Great saw for milling. What you need is a tractor and not a hot rod. Is newer better? Sure. But in the day 051/076 were the logger saws.
 

BobL

No longer addicted to AS
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
7,980
Reaction score
4,209
Location
Perth, Australia
Thanks Bob

I think there a great saw, however you do raise great points,

Did you use an aux oiler or was the saws output enough?

Here's some pic of my first slabs with the 076.
Yes I used an aux oiler as oil output is only about 20 mL/min (the 880 is about double that). I even use an aux oiler on the 880.
This is the oil tank made by by BIL from a piece of 4" Al tubing.
The oiler tap is now connected via a cable to a bicycle gear lever located near the operator so it could be switched on/off and adjusted at the operators position.

Aux_oil1.jpg
 

Aussie076

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Leeton NSW
Thanks, I really like my 076.......

Running a 42" bar with standard chain, it seems a bit slow in the cut, should I be using ripping chain.

I have attached a pic of my saw with most recent slab.

Is there any extra maintenance I should look at with this particular saw
 

Attachments

  • 20220628_200122.jpg
    20220628_200122.jpg
    3.4 MB · Views: 1

BobL

No longer addicted to AS
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
7,980
Reaction score
4,209
Location
Perth, Australia
RE: Maintenance
I found I hade to service the clutch drum needle bearing more often than I though would be needed. They need to be removed and cleaned and re-
greased about every dozen logs or so.
Knock out air filter every 3-4 hours.
Keep bar groove and b&C oil path clear of oily sawdust.

RE: Slow cutting
The first thing I would look at are rakers,
Do you know about progressive raker depth settings?
Post s close up side on picture of one of your cutters and I will give you a diagnosis.
Like this if you can'RakerProfile.jpg
 

Aussie076

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Leeton NSW
Thanks Bob

Could you explain what you mean by clutch drum bearing and how to remove and clean,

In regards to the chain I'll also need help with what progressive raker depths is

Here is attached picture requested
 

BobL

No longer addicted to AS
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
7,980
Reaction score
4,209
Location
Perth, Australia
OK the first thing I'm seeing is a lack of consistency between these 3 cutters,
Chiandiag.jpg

- cutter 1) looks like it has more hook than 2 and 3.
- the raker on 1) and 2) look lower than 3) which is definitely too high
It looks like you have taken some of raker 2 (its more triangular) but nothing of rakers 3 and 4 (not labelled)
The rakers actually dig a little bit into the wood which along with cutter hook determines how much depth the cutter can bite. Its pointless have rakers that re too high and razor sharp cutters, This just makes loads of fine dust.

There also looks like there is gaps under the ruler at 2) this means that cutter is shorter than teh others.
First thing I would do is get the cutters all looking a bit more alike.

RE: Progressive raker setting
Try this https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/cs-milling-101-hints-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-8#post-5712979
There's link there to the Hot saws "chain sharpening forum" - where the top sticky (Are FOP really progressive depth raker generators?) is all on progressive chain sharpening and was started by yours truly 13 years ago.

The bottom line is the rakers depts needs to change as the chain wears. The 0.025" raker gauges are basically a waste of time after the first couple of sharpens because by then the rakers should be 0,03". Anyway those links will hopefully explain but get back to me if you are unsure.
 

Aussie076

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Leeton NSW
Thanks, Bob

Very interesting....my chain is only about 10 cuts old...

Would the rakers be wrong after 2 sharpens?
 

HumBurner

ArboristSite Guru
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2018
Messages
720
Reaction score
684
Location
SoHum
Thanks, Bob

Very interesting....my chain is only about 10 cuts old...

Would the rakers be wrong after 2 sharpens?


Some of us go ahead and take the depth gauges down a hair on a brand new chain. I do it if I have time. For most larger saws, stock chain is a little lackluster. Even on smaller saws I still prefer an aggressive chain.


Two to three sharpenings at the beginning would warrant a lick or three off the depths. Just dont go crazy with it. Light, short strokes are better than a long stroke with lots of pressure applied.
 

BobL

No longer addicted to AS
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
7,980
Reaction score
4,209
Location
Perth, Australia
Thanks, Bob

Very interesting....my chain is only about 10 cuts old...

Would the rakers be wrong after 2 sharpens?
The first thing i do with stock chain is drop the rakers.
rakercorrect.jpg
The KPI for rakers are the angle between the raker/cutter tip/wood (or on the picture above, the ruler. I call this the "raker angle".

On new 3/8 chain chain the raker depth is 0.025" which converts to a raker angle of 5.7º.
Another way to look at this is the "gullet width" (0.25" on a new chain) to "raker depth" (0.025") ratio, on stock new chain this is 0.25/0.025 or 10:1
As the cutters wear, to maintain the same ratios the rakers have to be dropped even further. so when the gullet reaches 0.3 teh rakers should be at a minimum dropped to 0.03"

On my 880 and 076 I like to use a raker angle of 6.5º or a ratio of 9:1, which corresponds to a raker depth of 0,28 on a new chain. but I usually set it to a bit more eg 0.03" to just get me ahead of the game. On my 041 with 25" bar and Lopro chain I use 7.5º which is a ratio of 7.5:1 on new chain this is a raker depth of 0.033"

2 sharpenings might not seem much but it depends on how much metal you removed. For low dust cutting a minimum raker depth should be 1/10 (corresponds to about of them gullet width but with a big saw like an 076 in Aussie hardwoods, 1/9 is a better ratio to work with and if teh logs are narrow I swap from a 7 pin drive sproket to an 9 pin,

If all this maths is not your bag just use the method my dad used. Drop your rakers by taking 3 swipe of each raker and try a full bar length cut. If it goes OK, swipe 3 more times of each raker and try again. and keep doing this until the the chain starts to grab and it might even stall the saw, This means you have gone too far so now take a few swipes off each cutter to get you back to optimum, Measure the raker depth with feeler gauges and that is your sweet spot BUT only for that power head that specific cutter length, that chain.bar length, in that wood etc.

Better still, measure the gullet width and raker depth and work out the ratio and that will be the ratio for ANY cutter length but once again, only for that power head, that chain.bar length, in that wood etc.

Confusing as heck.??? but cuts like a hot knife thru butter all through the life of the chain.
 

Aussie076

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Leeton NSW
Wow.......now that is knowledge

Thanks, heaps for that....the maths is well above my head so will probably have to to with filing them and trying it...then adjust as needed.

Going to try do some more milling this weekend...ill let you know how I go.
 

Aussie076

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Leeton NSW
I now understand the pros and cons of using an 076

I love the power of this saw however parts are hard to find.

I have recently broken my sprocket and now need to replace this.....can anyone tell me how to pull the clutch off and then replace the sprocket?
 

BobL

No longer addicted to AS
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
7,980
Reaction score
4,209
Location
Perth, Australia
I now understand the pros and cons of using an 076

I love the power of this saw however parts are hard to find.

I have recently broken my sprocket and now need to replace this.....can anyone tell me how to pull the clutch off and then replace the sprocket?
What do you mean by "broke the sprocket"?

You really need to get the maintenance and repair manual, I have a paper version (and am not scanning 72 pages) but go to the beg for manuals thread and see if you can get a PDF version.

One thing you will need is a left handed torque wrench to put the clutch not back on properly.
 

Aussie076

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
20
Reaction score
5
Location
Leeton NSW
The drive sprocket broke in half.....not sure why tho......i was just running as normal.

I have a look through the pdf
 
Top