18" / 0.325 / 0.0.58" on Husqvarna 345 (and more)

[Fabb]

Hi All,

Always reading here and being using a very good running Husqvarna 345 (2003 like new) (back the days with a 15" .325) last two years with a 18" / .325 / 0.0.50" with X-cut, I now need a new bar and chain. Nosewheel went bad, chain comes of but is far from bad and can do another round. This on a Husqvarna X-force bar, both did 60-80m3 of 40cm firewood coming from ~50cm trees and after that splitted. I first filed this chain afte 30m3 (no joke) because it finally started to cut a little less good and I wanted to now how ong this X-cut chain would cut right and didn't want to mess it up as well.

As I wanted some more power for some jobs, knowing I would use the 345 less , I bought a very good running 357XP from 2001 with new Zama modification and good original cilinder

Still the 345 is also really nice for brances or when I get tired of the 357XP, so a very nice set to have, this together with some china tophande which is pretty agressive does it make my days off for now.

So this all being said, the 345 needs a new chain but the 357XP could use one as well, both having now 18".

As I want to try another brand bar but will stay with the X-cut chain (maybe Stihl RS which is in my opinion really slower then the X-cut) I was looking into the Tsumura Light bars which are very difficult to get in europe, so next plan.

Oregon Powercut is a very good alternative but is not available in 0,0050" for the 345 where 0.0058" is in my opinion a little bit too heavy for the 345. My 345 is really strong and fast runnning, people always are pretty flabbergasted because of it's speed and power, but I like to keep the details in place for the best performance; so I say 0.050" and no 0.058" for that one.

So what is people their opinion for the 345 about the thickness of the chain, will it be really different ?

Please don't tell me to go less then 18" on the 345 because I won't, I need the length...size matters sometimes people

The 357 will be a 20" - 3/8 - 0.0.58 for sure.

When 0.058 is not an issue I'm also looking into GB Bars (also no 0.050 there) which look realy good and have good reviews on the forums as well, compared to the Tsumaru's. Cannon is in my opinion a (price) step too far when you are starting to test bars and want to see the difference, maybe later.

So as you can read I'm in doubt about brands. Oregon chains won't be used by me, they are too soft and I don't trust them as well. The bars is another story and I liked to have a light version like Tsumura because of it's price as well and experiencing the price/quality of it.

So what about the 0.050" vs 0.058" for the 345 (which will be changed to a 350 oiler and a rimm as well; so no worries) and brands for bars you might suggest as wel ?

One preference I have is replaceable nosetip.

Thanks a lot and nice to be here!

 

[huskyespañol]

Las barras tsumura ligeras las consigo en e bay

 

[Fabb]

Las barras tsumura ligeras las consigo en e bay

All from far oversea... not an option pricewise.

 

[Backstage]

Get what's available in your area for the runner gauge. It's very much not a big deal as long as your bar and chain match. The light bars like Husqvarna’s new offerings (basically tsumara rebrands), sugihara bars, oregon versacut/powercut are all really nice.

 

[Fabb]

@Backstage It's proven that there is a real difference between bars and their quality these days, even chains. That they need to match is obvious, you just want to have the best match for the long run.

 

[Backstage]

Sure, Tsumara vs Farmertech. I’m not referring to brand. I’m talking about .050 vs .058 etc. It doesn’t really make a difference. Just get the one most available locally.

 

[Pioneer]

I used an 18" .325 pitch 50 gauge Oregon speedcut aluminum core bar on my 353. It's ok, a little sloppy out of the gate with around 3-4 thou play in the bar rails. I've had 3 of their aluminum core bars so far, 2 have been like that and one has been pretty much an interference fit and had to wear out the paint overspray to run smooth, exactly the way i like it.
I'm using a stihl 23 rs pro chain, it's a good combo for that saw and works well in all kinds of wood. It's a nice light setup and balances well on the saw. I haven't used it enough yet to tell how well it wears, but Oregon bars are generally decent in that respect.

 

[Fabb]

OK, my order is done thanks for the support (the disucssion can be continued if wanted)!

345: Tsumaru 18" Lightbar / .325-0.0.50 X-cut chain
357XP Tsumaru 20" Lightbar / 3/8-0.0.58 X-cut chain

Both chains is what I can get here locally if needed.

I think I can't be happier when it's mounted!

 

[HumBurner]

Replaceable bar tips or no?


I hate having to buy bars without replaceable tips. Waste of metal and my money.

Had to buy two .43 .325m bars yesterday and no option existed in-store for replaceable tips. Husqy/OR probably don't even make the small bars that way, more money in their pockets.

 

[Fabb]

@HumBurner Replacable tips for sure! That was why the Tsumura was almost the only option for 0.050 on the 18"

When do you replace a tip ? I bought a new bar (with replacabletip) because the 18" on the 345 started to get off as the wheel is I think getting stuck when getting warm/hot because of something which might be in teh bearing. Because of that you start to cut different and most of the time the bar starts to wear off misaligned which makes the bar unusable and the chain at the end as well,or the otherway around.

 

[Lionsfan]

@HumBurner Replacable tips for sure! That was why the Tsumura was almost the only option for 0.050 on the 18"

When do you replace a tip ? I bought a new bar (with replacabletip) because the 18" on the 345 started to get off as the wheel is I think getting stuck when getting warm/hot because of something which might be in teh bearing. Because of that you start to cut different and most of the time the bar starts to wear off misaligned which makes the bar unusable and the chain at the end as well,or the otherway around.

I've noticed that with the laminated husky bar on my 550. Seems like chips and dust and gunk get packed in behind the tip pretty easy. Especially noticeable if you get a little snow mixed in with it.

 

[Franny K]

OK, my order is done thanks for the support (the disucssion can be continued if wanted)!

345: Tsumaru 18" Lightbar / .325-0.0.50 X-cut chain

Is this chain the sp33 narrow kerf chain? The bars for this type of chain generally 0.020" thinner than the bars for the "normal" .325. And that is laminated vs laminated, solid replaceable nose likely thicker than that at least in Oregon and GB. It is not a mis match really when the cutters are full size for a gb replaceable nose bar.

 

[Fabb]

I've noticed that with the laminated husky bar on my 550. Seems like chips and dust and gunk get packed in behind the tip pretty easy. Especially noticeable if you get a little snow mixed in with it.

OK, but does it get into the bearing in your case ? Behind the wheel is quite easy to clean, OK not in the field.

Is this chain the sp33 narrow kerf chain? The bars for this type of chain generally 0.020" thinner than the bars for the "normal" .325. And that is laminated vs laminated, solid replaceable nose likely thicker than that at least in Oregon and GB. It is not a mis match really when the cutters are full size for a gb replaceable nose bar.

SP33G indeed. I used it on a X-Force Laminated bar .325" 1.3mm PIXEL Small bar mount without any issues. I just see 0.050" / 1.3mm there, nothing really "narrow kerf", just slightly smaller then a 0.0058" / 1,5mm chain which pretty normal for a .325

 

[Franny K]

pixel is Husqvarna code for narrow kerf. There is a symbol as well.

In oregon 20, 21, and 22 LPX and BPX the cutters are all the same and the 95 txl and prior 95 models are the "narrow kerf"

In Stihl the 23rspro code 3690 is the narrow kerf equivalent at this time. I think the 25 and 26 rs and rm and the older 23 would be the normal.

NK up to 55cc recommended
Normal up to 62cc recommended max at least in Oregon.

 

[Fabb]

OK, nice to know! The old Oregon chain on the 357XP is indeed a little bit more wide if you ask me, if it wasn't for the 0.008" there is in between.

In my opinion I have the right/best set for both comparing to value for performance and money.

I'm really looking forward to it!

 

[gschwartzenberger]

So what is the general consensus when it comes to Tsumura and Sugi bars and narrow kerf chain? I may order a Husqvarna SP33G chain to verify width versus an Oregon 95TXL. I think both are said to be narrow kerf. If so, do I need to keep my Oregon Speedcut bar or can I replace it with one of the light Tsumura or Sugi bars? From what I read by Fabb above, these narrow kerf chains should work OK on these bars. Right?

I've got an 18" 0.325/0.050 Speedcut bar on a Makita/Dolmar EA4300. Arbsession measured a Sugi bar to be 0.1795" or 4.56mm. Guess I'll compare to my Oregon Speedcut when I get home.

 

[Franny K]

So what is the general consensus when it comes to Tsumura and Sugi bars and narrow kerf chain? I may order a Husqvarna SP33G chain to verify width versus an Oregon 95TXL. I think both are said to be narrow kerf. If so, do I need to keep my Oregon Speedcut bar or can I replace it with one of the light Tsumura or Sugi bars? From what I read by Fabb above, these narrow kerf chains should work OK on these bars. Right?

I've got an 18" 0.325/0.050 Speedcut bar on a Makita/Dolmar EA4300. Arbsession measured a Sugi bar to be 0.1795" or 4.56mm. Guess I'll compare to my Oregon Speedcut when I get home.

For the laminated Oregon the speedcut seems real close to the 3/8lp bar thickness around 0.155" with a 10 tooth nose and the lpx bpx lgx bars whatever choices the names are now are around 0.175" and generally have 12 tooth noses. When you get to the replaceable nose bars they are often thicker and hard nose bars can be quite a wide variety.

I don't have a problem using new .325nk on the thicker bars results will obviously vary as the cutters are sharpened back and the kerf gets less.