1st time doing a carb rebuild

[Brufab]

Hi guys just bought my 1st carb rebuild kit. Is this something someone can do that hasn't done one before ? Saw runs on gas poured into carb for 5-7 seconds throttle response is normal runs better on run than choke. Fuel lines are good. Never rebuilt a carb before. No fuel is getting to carb I'm guessing since I haven't seen any gas up that far. Diaphram seems alil brittle. Any opinions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Parts are near obsolete for a Remington super 754.

 

[GoBigRed]

There are numerous videos that will guide you. Steves small engine repair has some good videos. . Watch that and get some knowledge and then watch another from a different guy. Then dive in and make it happen. First one will be slow but it will get better

what kind of carb is it? Remingtons are not my brand

 

[Chevboy0167]

Take plenty of pics as your tear it apart piece by piece. Write down the order of the gaskets as they sit on the carb body and covers. Use carb cleaner in the aerosol can and NO COMPRESSED AIR to blow out the passages.

What model carb? HL159A?

 

[Brufab]

Tilloston hl159a on a 1960's remington

 

[Brufab]

Take plenty of pics as your tear it apart piece by piece. Write down the order of the gaskets as they sit on the carb body and covers. Use carb cleaner in the aerosol can and NO COMPRESSED AIR to blow out the passages.

What model carb? HL159A?

Yes that's the one. I printed the carb diagram.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Should be it...

 

[Chevboy0167]

Cool beans. Now the actual carb you have may be a different variant from the pics but should point you in the correct direction. Watch where every little part goes and have fun!

 

[Brufab]

I took the carb down some #9-10 and #13-14 gaskets were 1 piece? On carb kit and diagrams it's showing 2 gaskets

 

[Chevboy0167]

Man... I think the last Tilly I worked on was 30 yrs ago on a snowmobile....LOL Sorry... not much real help on a saw application!

 

[Brufab]

Every lil bit helps. Thanks for the color diagram

 

[Chevboy0167]

Oh.... and make dang sure the fuel filter and lines are clean, clear and don't have any pin holes in them. If you question them, just replace. Or at least vacuum check the lines to see if they hold.

 

[Brufab]

This is what's coming to the house. Looks like what I got based on how far I tore the carb down this evening

 

[heimannm]

There are not a lot of differences in the HL carburetors, those are the correct gaskets and diaphragms. Just remember that the fuel pump diaphragm (the tan looking one in the photo) lays flat against the fuel pump body, on the metering side the gasket goes on first, and the diaphragm on top of that.

It is quite common for the fuel filter and gasket to be different so be careful with you take that fuel inlet off as you may end up having to reuse the filter and gasket.

Yours may appear to be "one piece" but the gaskets and diaphragms are separate, just glued together now with the same varnish that made the diaphragms so stiff.

Mark

 

[pioneerguy600]

I took the carb down some #9-10 and #13-14 gaskets were 1 piece? On carb kit and diagrams it's showing 2 gaskets

They are not one piece originally but become so after many years of soaking in old fuel mix. The HL is one of the easiest carbs to work on, parts are much larger than the latest Walbro and Zama carbs.

 

[thenne1713]

Hi guys just bought my 1st carb rebuild kit. Is this something someone can do that hasn't done one before ? Saw runs on gas poured into carb for 5-7 seconds throttle response is normal runs better on run than choke. Fuel lines are good. Never rebuilt a carb before. No fuel is getting to carb I'm guessing since I haven't seen any gas up that far. Diaphram seems alil brittle. Any opinions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Parts are near obsolete for a Remington super 754.

A few thoughts/ TIPS: BEWARE use of air nozzle, lest small parts get blown away to opposite side of the shop; 2) after disassembly, find fuel inlet tube, and follow to diagram chamber, look for very fine mesh screen; if BLACK= dirty, = clean carefully/ gently with a wooden toothpick ; (if CLEAN= it will be bright, shiny silver). 3) ONCE FOUGHT little saw, new fuel lines= start first pull, die after 15-seconds; no problem noted w/ carb, but new carb= NO JOY; finally noted SLIGHT kink in 1-1/8" long line between carb/ primer, trimmed 1/8" and reinstalled straight= CURED (Fuel MUST be able to Free FLOW). GOOD LUCK

 

[Brufab]

I think the wife may rebuild the carb for me. She is waaaaay more patient, deliberate, and methodical as she has worked in a dental lab. Just a waiting game now on parts. Appreciate all the tips and tricks guys. Much appreciated!!!

 

[cmhmhh]

I think the wife may rebuild the carb for me. She is waaaaay more patient, deliberate, and methodical as she has worked in a dental lab. Just a waiting game now on parts. Appreciate all the tips and tricks guys. Much appreciated!!!

That might be the best decision you make all week!

 

[thenne1713]

I think the wife may rebuild the carb for me. She is waaaaay more patient, deliberate, and methodical as she has worked in a dental lab. Just a waiting game now on parts. Appreciate all the tips and tricks guys. Much appreciated!!!

and watch her STRUT when that engine PURRS

 

[pioneerguy600]

The HL would be a great carb for anyone to cut their teeth on, they have the same components that more recent carbs have but are very simple to work on, some would consider them crude compared to todays offerings. Many of the vintage chainsaws used the HL series carbs and they were the first chainsaw carbs I ever rebuilt, I loved the idea that the needle valve seat was removable and the passages were easy to chase out.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Some times I run into some one that has a bucket of carbs so I buy them. Many of the carbs are very interchangeable. Many use the same body but has different linkage attachments. So all one has to do is change butterfly shaft or choke and good to go. That is if carb is completely DOA. Thanks