2 saw plan for hardwood property

[Iffykid]

Do y'all think I should open the oil flow screw all the way on my 261? I felt the chain after running it and it was slick with oil. It's still set at factory setting. I have the 18" b/c. Or would you recommend I get the 461R oil bolt?

Sounds like it is probably oiling good for now, down the road make sure to keep oil passages in saw and bar cleaned and open and rinse the oil tank out with gas or somethings to flush out any contaminates

I have always stuck with more bar oil is not going to hurt anything other maybe bit of extra oil expense, My adjustment happy spot is if there is just a small amount of oil left in the tank but still oiling when the saw runs out of gas.

 

[dirtysock]

Sounds like it is probably oiling good for now, down the road make sure to keep oil passages in saw and bar cleaned and open and rinse the oil tank out with gas or somethings to flush out any contaminates

I have always stuck with more bar oil is not going to hurt anything other maybe bit of extra oil expense, My adjustment happy spot is if there is just a small amount of oil left in the tank but still oiling when the saw runs out of gas.

Thanks, I didn't think about rinsing oil tank with gas. Might be a good time to do that when I'm storing the saw for some time.

 

[dirtysock]

I know this is a little off topic, but I would really like to try a 16" bar on the 261, the light 04 bar, and a 23 rs or rm pro chain. I'm not sure if those are available, but the .325, .050 combo on a light bar would be fun to try.

 

[dirtysock]

I know this is a little off topic, but I would really like to try a 16" bar on the 261, the light 04 bar, and a 23 rs or rm pro chain. I'm not sure if those are available, but the .325, .050 combo on a light bar would be fun to try.

And I would have to change the drive sprocket, hopefully that isn't too hard to do.

 

[Iffykid]

Do y'all think I should open the oil flow screw all the way on my 261? I felt the chain after running it and it was slick with oil. It's still set at factory setting. I have the 18" b/c. Or would you recommend I get the 461R oil bolt?

Appears to be some inconsistency with the stock oilers working, Mine work fine and I am able to adjust for minimal oil left in the tank when the saw runs out of fuel others pear to be having issues. Run your saw note oil usage and correct with a 461 bolt if required or leave stock if not.

 

[Iffykid]

And I would have to change the drive sprocket, hopefully that isn't too hard to do.

I know this is a little off topic, but I would really like to try a 16" bar on the 261, the light 04 bar, and a 23 rs or rm pro chain. I'm not sure if those are available, but the .325, .050 combo on a light bar would be fun to try.

Drive should be a rim sprocket easy to change, pop e or c clip remove washer and sprocket and replace put clip back on and done. Takes longer to remove the side cover bar and chain.

I have yet to see a 04 bar available in the USA, I run a lighter weight Oregon brand Versa? model bar.

 

[dirtysock]

Drive should be a rim sprocket easy to change, pop e or c clip remove washer and sprocket and replace put clip back on and done. Takes longer to remove the side cover bar and chain.

I have yet to see a 04 bar available in the USA, I run a lighter weight Oregon brand Versa? model bar.

Thanks. I need to expand my knowledge on other bar brands like Oregon.

 

[Steve Garrett]

Thanks for the oiling advice everyone, I run an 18" or a 20" bar on my 261, and have always felt the bar was not getting enough oil. Just to clarify, do you not need to swap out the piston as well, or is just changing to the higher flow bolt all that is needed?

 

[Vanguard]

Thanks for the oiling advice everyone, I run an 18" or a 20" bar on my 261, and have always felt the bar was not getting enough oil. Just to clarify, do you not need to swap out the piston as well, or is just changing to the higher flow bolt all that is needed?

Just the control bolt.

 

[bowenp]

Hey all,

Been reading and learning a lot here recently. I have some heavily wooded acreage that I like to thin out when I can and need advice on a 2 saw plan. Mostly cedar elm, live oak, pecan and mesquite. Burned up a ms 250 (my mistake) that I had for 17 years. I plan to fall 6-12" trees, occasionally up to 24". Most of the work would be limbing and bucking heavy stuff. I like the idea so far of ms 261 cm and possibly ms 462 cm. Dealer close by I think handles both stihl and husqvarna. I want to run as short of bars as possible. I am 5'10", 170 lbs. I think the 16" on the 261 would be good, no idea on the 462. I am open to suggestions on other brands. Reliability is key followed by performance. Thanks in advance.

I purchased 25 acres 95% wooded about 4 years ago for my retirement place. I had a shop selling and repairing Husqvarna, Stihl, and Echo back in my twenty's.

The first think I started looking for in Craig$li$t was a Husqvarna Clearing saw. I took about 6 months and I found a 245 model. Advanages, I can cut brush, and small trees up to 3 inches faster than lopers and a chainsaw, plus I can cut overhead to about 9'.

Next, I found a repairable 254xp on E#ay installed a 13" bar and a 8 tooth .325 sprocket for more chain speed to easily cut 4" to 8" trees. I feel the 13" bar is overall safer than a 16" to 20" bar.

Lastly I have a ported 371XP with a 8 tooth sprocket and 20" tsumara.

I have cut 100's of trees in the two years of site prep.

Last fall I started harvesting dead timber for materials for the house build.
16" - 21" Ash killed by the Emerald Ash Borer (flooring)
22" to 28" red maple (cabinets and accent wall).
A 28" diseased Red Oak (flooring and accent wall) is waiting in line maybe next weekend.

On the big trees the 20" bar Husqvarna was a pain, plenty of horsepower and sawdust but the bar was to short. So I broke out my spare 371XP. I did a bottem end port job, 7 tooth rim sprocket, and I ordered a 28" tsumara and some skip chain. In the last 10 days, I cut up a 28" downed maple, and a 18", two 19" and a 20" Ash. I am really impressed with this saw.

 

[Hickahollar]

The ms261 is a great saw. I have several saws. But for me mostly cutting firewood I use a ms250(18"bar) and a ms362 with 25" bar. I really like my 362 and it cut down a 44 inch around white oak about a year or so ago. It handled it just fine. The 362 took a long time to break in (5 or more tanks)and be able to run the 25"bar. I can't hog with it but a sharp chain and just let it cut and it does fine. But since I needed a bigger bar to run an Alaskan sawmill in that same said white oak I found a used 880 with 41 inch bar for about half of the original price. I've since used it to cut a 48 and 52 around inch red oak. Point I'm wanting to make is the 362 is capable of cutting 40 inch plus trees but the 880 does it better. It's not really a whole lot faster than the 362 it's just that I'm not pushing the limits of the 880 where as the 48"tree would be do able with the 362 and I could probably of cut the 52" tree down also but it would have been more work more planning. Probably would have really pushed it(362) hard to put a 28" bar with skip tooth chain. Best advise I can give is use what you have until you need bigger. Heck I have a 35 cc 38cc 41cc 45cc 59cc and the 880 it's what 120cc? I use mostly the 35cc 45cc and 59cc for all of my cutting.

 

[dirtysock]

The ms261 is a great saw. I have several saws. But for me mostly cutting firewood I use a ms250(18"bar) and a ms362 with 25" bar. I really like my 362 and it cut down a 44 inch around white oak about a year or so ago. It handled it just fine. The 362 took a long time to break in (5 or more tanks)and be able to run the 25"bar. I can't hog with it but a sharp chain and just let it cut and it does fine. But since I needed a bigger bar to run an Alaskan sawmill in that same said white oak I found a used 880 with 41 inch bar for about half of the original price. I've since used it to cut a 48 and 52 around inch red oak. Point I'm wanting to make is the 362 is capable of cutting 40 inch plus trees but the 880 does it better. It's not really a whole lot faster than the 362 it's just that I'm not pushing the limits of the 880 where as the 48"tree would be do able with the 362 and I could probably of cut the 52" tree down also but it would have been more work more planning. Probably would have really pushed it(362) hard to put a 28" bar with skip tooth chain. Best advise I can give is use what you have until you need bigger. Heck I have a 35 cc 38cc 41cc 45cc 59cc and the 880 it's what 120cc? I use mostly the 35cc 45cc and 59cc for all of my cutting.

Thanks. I used my MS250 with a 16" bar for everything and I did push it. I came to the conclusion to get a more powerful saw and not push it as hard and probably be safer. I will use it until I feel like I am pushing it and then get a bigger saw. I feel like the 261 will do most of what I need, but I foresee getting the 462 for occasional use. I've gotten older and maybe a bit wiser and it makes sense to use the right tool for the job. Not only for efficiency but for safety.

 

[Abbeville TSI]

For many years I was happy with an 017 and an 026. Then I sold the 026 and bought an 036 Pro. I was happy with that duo for years. Two years ago I retired and caught a bad case of CAD. An 017 and an 036 Pro would still do fine for my needs. More **** for the heirs to argue about, LOL!

 

[Hickahollar]

Yes I do believe that I have CAD also. Its currently in remission until it strikes next. Yes my ms250 was my 1 saw plan for years and before that a ppb4218. And yes I've pushed both of those saws through 30 inch wood. I also remember pushing that poulan through a 40 inch sweet gum it had a fork about 20 feet up that was closer to 50inches around and that was where it died.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

Sometimes what bar oil you run determines output, thick or thin... then account for wood and type of cutting you do, ie. Cutting 12" diam vs. Burying you're bar in 24" diam. Too much oil is better than not enough... the reason I open my oilers up.

Opened up with 20" bar, running tackier oil when I first bought my 261 wasn't enough... but I've cut up to 32" plus wood with it.

Can't go wrong with hi flow control bolt either way, but I'd wait until warranty is up if not necessary for you now.

I don't think a dealer could tell if a bolt in the oil pump was changed when it comes to warranty work...

 

[user 122190]

For many years I was happy with an 017 and an 026. Then I sold the 026 and bought an 036 Pro. I was happy with that duo for years. Two years ago I retired and caught a bad case of CAD. An 017 and an 036 Pro would still do fine for my needs. More **** for the heirs to argue about, LOL!

That's not CAD. That's called learning what you need and acquiring them over a reasonable length of time.

CAD is when you buy a saw a week on average over a period of a year or more. Sometimes you buy the same saw forgetting you already own 3 of them. Bore your friends to death with talk of saws, alienate your wife and children, lose your job, sleep with your saws, dream about saws, have wet dreams about saws, all your cloths are orange, you started to wear suspenders because they have Husqvarna on them, you are looking to replace your dragon/beer/gun tattoos with saw tattoos. etc.

 

[user 122190]

Yes I do believe that I have CAD also. Its currently in remission until it strikes next. Yes my ms250 was my 1 saw plan for years and before that a ppb4218. And yes I've pushed both of those saws through 30 inch wood. I also remember pushing that poulan through a 40 inch sweet gum it had a fork about 20 feet up that was closer to 50inches around and that was where it died.

Not CAD. See above.

 

[Gamma Woods]

The first think I started looking for in Craig$li$t was a Husqvarna Clearing saw. I took about 6 months and I found a 245 model. Advanages, I can cut brush, and small trees up to 3 inches faster than lopers and a chainsaw, plus I can cut overhead to about 9'.

Next, I found a repairable 254xp on E#ay installed a 13" bar and a 8 tooth .325 sprocket for more chain speed to easily cut 4" to 8" trees. I feel the 13" bar is overall safer than a 16" to 20" bar.

I had my eyes on the battery system, 535ifr for a while, until a nice 110 popped up. Brushcutter with bike handles, clearing blade works great for the acres of sumac and 2 inch hardwood saplings. Dedicated clearing saws tend to get revved high, then let off, revved high and let off. I wanted something I could use for clearing thick brush as well, going WoT for extended periods, so I sacrificed some grunt for adaptability.

 

[Gamma Woods]

That's not CAD. That's called learning what you need and acquiring them over a reasonable length of time.

CAD is when you buy a saw a week on average over a period of a year or more. Sometimes you buy the same saw forgetting you already own 3 of them. Bore your friends to death with talk of saws, alienate your wife and children, lose your job, sleep with your saws, dream about saws, have wet dreams about saws, all your cloths are orange, you started to wear suspenders because they have Husqvarna on them, you are looking to replace your dragon/beer/gun tattoos with saw tattoos. etc.

I have been known to fall asleep beside parts and new saws that I fondle. Is that CAD? What if you open up the muffler .... for... reasons...

 

[user 122190]

What if you simply add a chainsaw to your existing demon tattoo? I have been known to fall asleep beside parts and new saws that I fondle. Is that CAD? What if you open up the muffler .... for... reasons...

First threshold is how many saws? On hand or projected to have based on current frequency of purchases. Secondary factors can vary, but number of saws is usually a primary indicator. Sexual attraction is rare but can override all else. Just saying... Do you provide a pillow for your sleeping buddy?

I can provide greater counseling, but we need to discuss my online rates for psychological help.