266 refurb, questions in general

[Farmer_Nate]

Thanks everybody. More pics soon as this baby goes back together. Got started with my "porting" experiments. My porting is going to be very mild.

I noticed the 2 cylinders I had were not identical as far as port sizes. The one that came on the saw had a larger intake port than the one I began porting.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Considered trimming just a shave off the flywheel key and putting her back together with a very slight timing advance. Would that blow up anything?

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Thanks everybody. More pics soon as this baby goes back together. Got started with my "porting" experiments. My porting is going to be very mild.

I noticed the 2 cylinders I had were not identical as far as port sizes. The one that came on the saw had a larger intake port than the one I began porting.

I believe the XP and SE cylinders were slightly different, I’ll have to look up some of the old service bulletins. I vaguely remember seeing different cylinder part numbers for those saws.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

 

[Farmer_Nate]

First shot at porting. Not as easy as it seemed at first. Macro setting on camera shows every detail and defect and blemish, many of which are not visible to the naked eye. Humbling.

I still need to polish up a bit and take off the rest of the crusty dark brown as-cast surface I missed.

I widened the intake and exhaust ports about 1/8" per side.
Opened lower transfers a very small bit. Didn't widen or raise/lower them any.
I am leaving upper transfers completely alone.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

There is a limit to how wide open I can make the intake on this saw because the plastic block mates to the cylinder and contains the impulse channel within it so I can't grind that away. I installed the first plastic intake block and ground the interior of the intake and interior the plastic block to match, so there are no steps up or down going from plastic to cylinder...smooth transition. I also removed sharp edges from the plastic intake elbow just below the air filter.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Make sure to chamfer those sharp edges.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Make sure to chamfer those sharp edges.

Yes, I am in the process. I am aware one must not catch a ring on these.

Watched some Tinman and reading the old Gordon Jennings stuff. Ovalized sizes on those intake/exhaust ports.

 

[Woodslasher]

OEM crank bearings and case gasket are no longer available from Husqvarna. I personally wouldn’t split the cases unless absolutely necessary. I’d bet dollars to doughnuts that bottom end is just fine. Do the crank seals, o-rings, piston ring, cylinder gasket, and carb kit. And the fuel hose and filter if it needs it. Do that and you’ll have a good running saw for many years to come.

That 1st bit is not true, the 6202 bearings for the bottom end are still available through Husky (but $10 SKF 6202 C3 bearing from ebay are the exact same parts) and you can still order the gasket set which comes with the case gasket.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

That 1st bit is not true, the 6202 bearings for the bottom end are still available through Husky (but $10 SKF 6202 C3 bearing from ebay are the exact same parts) and you can still order the gasket set which comes with the case gasket.

Yeah I was just looking at the IPL on Monday, the crank bearings are indeed still available. Wasn’t aware the gasket set was available though. I’m gonna look it up tomorrow when I’m at work. If that’s the case I’ll be ordering a few of them.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

738 22 02-25 is bearing part number I see on parts list for bearings.

Bailey's has for $30 a piece.

Chainsawr for 10. SKF brand.

https://chainsawr.com/products/husq...saw-ball-bearing-pn-738-22-02-25-new-bin-h-15

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Gasket set is 30 and bearings 20. Shipped I'd be out 70 or so probably. After replacing these, I'd still have a used main crank bearing between crank and connecting rod. If splitting the case, at this point, I'd probably want to replace that crank bearing but it looks like you have to buy the whole crank and con rod assy?

 

[Farmer_Nate]

A little more polishing.

Matched intake parts to remove steps inside.

Ground away sharp corners in plastic intake runners and elbow.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Put a few things on today.

Seals. Throttle lever boot for case. Piston ring. Motoseal base gasket.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

I cleaned up Motoseal...didn't let it ooze into the crank.

Let it sit a minute or two, then installed cylinder. Put in 4 base bolts finger tight, then finger snug...not full torque until it dries.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Why is the channel shown in blue on this housing? What is it for?

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Did you take the piston off the rod? Looks like it may be installed backwards. Arrow must face the exhaust port.

 

[Farmer_Nate]

Wow, your quick response saved me effort and time!

 

[Farmer_Nate]

I had removed the piston and bearings to keep em clean. I carefully put the piston back on, wrist pin, needle bearings, circlip.

Being the first time I have ever done this, I then proceeded to install the cylinder backward! The butt end and front of the saw look kinda similar when all torn down! And the two ports on the cylinder kinda similar.

Thank you!

I pulled it back up, slowly and carefully rotated it 180 degrees, refreshed the motoseal and snugged er back.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Good thing it was caught before you ran it. That channel in the case you circled is for the heated handle saws. There’s a wiring harness that runs through there for the generator. 266SG is the heated handle version.