Ah, makes sense. Thanks.
266 refurb, questions in general
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Ah, makes sense. Thanks.
I think I may have noticed when time to bolt up the carb. What a duh moment.
The ring is only visible through the exhaust port, but yes. Better to catch it before running the saw for sure. Also, it’s best to install the insulator block and carb on the cylinder beforehand. Makes assembly a little easier.
Yes, that is how I disassembled it, all one shot. I wondered about that but didn't do it. I'll struggle a little with installation, but oh well.
I have not rebuilt the carb yet so didn't want to do that yet.
Update...squish check.
I have very tiny solder which measures 0.028 or so.
I stuck a length of solder in the spark plug hole and tried my best to put it out far enough to get "squished" at the top. I slowly drove the piston up and over top dead center by hand with the flywheel and key held in place loosely. The end of the solder was slightly flattened or indented by what I believe to be the squish band. This cylinder has a small squish band right out near the perimeter and I did my best to get the solder all the way out to the band.
I did two runs. My control of the process is not the best probably. Squish appears right at about 0.020 or a little under. The piston could rock just a little, I put the solder just opposite the plug hole.
Cell phone photo of the solder is a little fuzzy, but there is a flattened spot at the end of each piece.
I felt a little resistance as I turned the piston past top dead center, so I think that was the "squishing" part.
Some online say for smaller saws such as this 66cc that 0.020 is about as small as you want to go. I am going to call this good I think.
I have very tiny solder which measures 0.028 or so.
I stuck a length of solder in the spark plug hole and tried my best to put it out far enough to get "squished" at the top. I slowly drove the piston up and over top dead center by hand with the flywheel and key held in place loosely. The end of the solder was slightly flattened or indented by what I believe to be the squish band. This cylinder has a small squish band right out near the perimeter and I did my best to get the solder all the way out to the band.
I did two runs. My control of the process is not the best probably. Squish appears right at about 0.020 or a little under. The piston could rock just a little, I put the solder just opposite the plug hole.
Cell phone photo of the solder is a little fuzzy, but there is a flattened spot at the end of each piece.
I felt a little resistance as I turned the piston past top dead center, so I think that was the "squishing" part.
Some online say for smaller saws such as this 66cc that 0.020 is about as small as you want to go. I am going to call this good I think.
Attachments
Learned how to disassemble a spark plug. Learned the trick of grinding away the top metal lip to allow the ceramic guts to come out the top.
JB Welded a barb fitting in for the Mighty Vac vacuum/pressure checks.
JB Welded a barb fitting in for the Mighty Vac vacuum/pressure checks.
Vac and pressure hold several minutes. Crank seal and base/cylinder Motoseal hold.
Used bicycle innertube at muffler and intake.
MightyVac
Will have to do again after carb is all put back together to test those gaskets at the carb and intake block.
Used bicycle innertube at muffler and intake.
MightyVac
Will have to do again after carb is all put back together to test those gaskets at the carb and intake block.
Flywheel Woodruf Key
Shaved a bit on one side
0.1175 OEM width
0.1100 Width of Ground Section
0.0075 taken off.
Should help advance timing just a hair. I don't want to do much, just a little.
I won't be measuring with a timing light or anything like that.
Shaved a bit on one side
0.1175 OEM width
0.1100 Width of Ground Section
0.0075 taken off.
Should help advance timing just a hair. I don't want to do much, just a little.
I won't be measuring with a timing light or anything like that.
She is back together and runs after the carb re-build, new fuel line, boot for throttle link. After dorking around with getting everything back together, I took the cylinder off again and put things back together as a unit, then slid it all back down onto the case. I had to clean up an refresh the base gasket with a light skim of Motoseal.
Set L and H needles at 1.25 turns out to start. Saw started fine on choke after a few pulls to prime the lines and carb. Set H a turn or so mor richer, blipped throttle a few times, warmed up, then hit full throttle. Saw smoked an choked due to too much H. Backed off H until she 4-stroked and smoked a bit when wide open. Only ran saw about 5 minutes.
Sounds pretty mean. Runs quite well. Loud with that gutted muffler.
Ordered 20" Tsumar bar from a site member, chain and bar here in next few days hopefully, maybe both today.
Next trip will be out to do some cuttin'...wide open.
Hate the pull handle. Too short and square. Doesn't look OEM...not very ergonomic, anyway. May have to sculp that a bit.
Set L and H needles at 1.25 turns out to start. Saw started fine on choke after a few pulls to prime the lines and carb. Set H a turn or so mor richer, blipped throttle a few times, warmed up, then hit full throttle. Saw smoked an choked due to too much H. Backed off H until she 4-stroked and smoked a bit when wide open. Only ran saw about 5 minutes.
Sounds pretty mean. Runs quite well. Loud with that gutted muffler.
Ordered 20" Tsumar bar from a site member, chain and bar here in next few days hopefully, maybe both today.
Next trip will be out to do some cuttin'...wide open.
Hate the pull handle. Too short and square. Doesn't look OEM...not very ergonomic, anyway. May have to sculp that a bit.
Letter rip
. Here’s my runner .Attachments
My bar will be similar. Looks like a "Tinman" saw
266 one of Husqvarna best cord wood saws in the day , will cut all day ask for more at the end of the day. Lol
No photo yet, but I got the bar and chain on. I didn't realize full wrap bar makes getting to the bar nuts tougher. That kinda sucks.
The metal tubular chain brake lever is very close to the bar...so much it touches my knuckles. I guess it is bent. Are these tubular? If so, I have to be careful bending it back, right, so it doesn't wrinkle/buckle?
The metal tubular chain brake lever is very close to the bar...so much it touches my knuckles. I guess it is bent. Are these tubular? If so, I have to be careful bending it back, right, so it doesn't wrinkle/buckle?
Can you post a picture of the saw with the clutch cover on? You can bend the chain brake handle just have to be careful. My 266XP is a factory full wrap saw, you can see the brake handle is formed to match the contour of the wrap handle.
Attachments
Zero degrees here today in the shop...I'll do that soon.
Brake
Yeah that’s pretty close. You can bend the brake handle out, just be careful. A little bit goes a long way.
Tweaked the metal brake handle forward a bit to make the saw usable and went to cut wood. Bucked a tank of gas through the saw. Lately I had done nothing due to the cold snap... 0-Degree F temps with wind not appealing so I stayed in and tended the fire. I hated to let the saw sit.
Set the saw up pretty rich to start. It cut well, but was a bit slow at first I think due to the rich condition. Backed off H just a 1/8 turn or so after a few cuts, continued to cut and saw still 4-stroked when unloaded so I think it had adequate fuel and lube but cut with a bit more RPM. Still not screaming fast like some saws. Leaned into the dogs a few times gently to fully load the saw at full throttle. Seemed to cut a little faster as I went along. Few more tanks may tell more of the story. I have never "broken in" a new ring, so I am trying the warm-up then cut-like-hell method.
I like the saw.
Set the saw up pretty rich to start. It cut well, but was a bit slow at first I think due to the rich condition. Backed off H just a 1/8 turn or so after a few cuts, continued to cut and saw still 4-stroked when unloaded so I think it had adequate fuel and lube but cut with a bit more RPM. Still not screaming fast like some saws. Leaned into the dogs a few times gently to fully load the saw at full throttle. Seemed to cut a little faster as I went along. Few more tanks may tell more of the story. I have never "broken in" a new ring, so I am trying the warm-up then cut-like-hell method.
I like the saw.
These saws are little beasts. I'm glad the tear down and rebuild went well for you!
You may find the power warrants taking the depths down a hair or two from stock out the gate, especially if running a 20 or 24" chain. Then it'll really eat.
Most important, how's the lady like the 488, now that the 266 lives?
You may find the power warrants taking the depths down a hair or two from stock out the gate, especially if running a 20 or 24" chain. Then it'll really eat.
Most important, how's the lady like the 488, now that the 266 lives?
Thanks.
Have not had the wife run the 488 yet but I will. Thanks.
Have not had the wife run the 488 yet but I will. Thanks.
