288 clone oiler

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

9050lx

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
3,652
Reaction score
903
Location
west central fl
Anyone know how to increase output on a clone 288 oiler?I love how the saw runs and cuts, yet uses appeox 1/4 tank of oil set on max to every fill of fuel. Anyone experimented with increasing output on these?I was sold one of the improved versions I was told, but I don't see a difference in output.Bar is a Tsumura 20,afraid to go longer for now.oil pump intake does not leak.
 
Same as OEM there are 4 settings. See the dot on your adjuster. Thinking come set on 1 or 2. Turn counter clockwise to 4. Thats what I do.
Mine gushed oil after the oil pump change.

See if you have the sunshine marking like on the lower new afm oiler. Thats the one they put in after first batch. It is the better oilers.

h288oemoo.jpgg288op.jpgg288oppp.jpg
 
Yeah idid not get one with the sunshine marking, although the guy claimed it was the revised one.I ha ve it maxed on 4, i took apart the original, saw the scalloped ridges on the adjuster screw,noted the greater travel of the oil gear.
 
Guess I will take the oiler off again. I bought an Oem intake hose.Any body have an idea of what the hole below the oiler is? I see oil running from this orifice occasionally.(about a 1/32 inch hole approx half way down from the top of the bar) I thought it may be a vent,but I thought the vent was on top below the muffler.
 
Guess I will take the oiler off again. I bought an Oem intake hose.Any body have an idea of what the hole below the oiler is? I see oil running from this orifice occasionally.(about a 1/32 inch hole approx half way down from the top of the bar) I thought it may be a vent,but I thought the vent was on top below the muffler.
Pic showing what your talking about?

🤷‍♂️

g288crankbearingpto.jpgg288xxx.jpg
 
I'd try grinding the taper steeper on the pump so it strokes further before I spent anymore money. You make the short end of the taper 2-3mm shorter when doing this.
This works on most all bar oil pumps to increase flow.
 
Built a MS 660 a few years ago ran good but oiled bad, hardly what i like, took the china one off -OEM on, problem solved, guess the chineese are awair of all the defects in their parts but never seem to rectify them - buy very little from them, dont like spending time rctifying them- got a large parts stash
 
I'd try grinding the taper steeper on the pump so it strokes further before I spent anymore money. You make the short end of the taper 2-3mm shorter when doing this.
This works on most all bar oil pumps to increase flow.
Trying to visualize, 4 notches ,each takes 90 degrees of screw rotation , 4 depths, deepest pumps more oil, are the shape of a canoe about 1/2 inch long.
 
Trying to visualize, 4 notches ,each takes 90 degrees of screw rotation , 4 depths, deepest pumps more oil, are the shape of a canoe about 1/2 inch long.
Here's a video of how you do this to a stihl pump, I cant describe it well. You grind it the same way on a husky but the pump comes apart a little different.
 
I ground a deeper ramp on the pump gear with a mini-file, and slotted position "4" adjuster screw another 1/16 or so deeper.Will have to try soon. It looks like a longer stroke was achieved.
 
Back
Top