346XP needs replaced....it's at 90 PSI, what saw is comparable today?

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zeek

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I likely can't fix my 346XP in a timely manner...low compression at 90, put a new ring and still 9, so I guess I need a P/C, not sure what to do yet. I have not kept up with the new saws so no clue what to buy to replace my 346XP. I am hoping that a new P/C will fix me up, but I just don't know. I'm just a farmer with a wood burner, but need a saw that works.
Thanks
Zeek
 
I likely can't fix my 346XP in a timely manner...low compression at 90, put a new ring and still 9, so I guess I need a P/C, not sure what to do yet. I have not kept up with the new saws so no clue what to buy to replace my 346XP. I am hoping that a new P/C will fix me up, but I just don't know. I'm just a farmer with a wood burner, but need a saw that works.
Thanks
Zeek
Are you using a compression gauge made for small engine use?
 
If the 346XP is still serviceable a new OEM cylinder kit is available for a reasonable price compared to going with a new saw. The 544142908 kit has decompression valve provision while the 544142907 kit does not. The -908 kit is available on Amazon, eBay, online retailers and possibly dealers for $130-$140 while the -907 kit cost around $10-$15 less. If your saw is does not have metal intake boot clamp you need to upgrade as the original plastic clamp will leak air and kill your engine.

Husqvarna Genuine Part 544142907 CYLINDER​

Genuine OEM Husqvarna 346XP Cylinder Kit 544142908​

 
Yes, I am and after the new rung the compression was still about the same. I ran the saw pretty hard for 11 years.
Well, most here would encourage you to save that saw. It’s a good one. Throw a new top end on it, do the crank seals and run it for another 11 years. I understand wanting to get a new saw but that 346XP is a legend. If your dead set on a new saw go for a 261 or 550XP. If nothing else put that 346 on the back burner, fix it (at some point) and keep it as an old faithful back up saw.
 
I likely can't fix my 346XP in a timely manner...low compression at 90, put a new ring and still 9, so I guess I need a P/C, not sure what to do yet. I have not kept up with the new saws so no clue what to buy to replace my 346XP. I am hoping that a new P/C will fix me up, but I just don't know. I'm just a farmer with a wood burner, but need a saw that works.
Thanks
Zeek
Hello Zeek,

What new saw dealers do you have in your area that are truly servicing dealers? All companies including Stihl have went to the box store, non servicing dealers in some areas. Ther are good new saws out there in different brands but sadly it is getting more rare to find one you are able to purchase from a servicing dealer.
 
What did the piston & cylinder look like when you had it apart to do the ring? It should've stood out if there was significant scoring or damage.
Other things may be the issue...
Does it have decomp? If so have you checked that isn't leaking?
Have you checked your compression tester on a known good saw?
Are you testing it with the choke & throttle at least partially open?
Have you checked the muffler/ spark arrester are clear?
If you drop a little mix or oil directly into the cylinder does compression come up?
 
I likely can't fix my 346XP in a timely manner...low compression at 90, put a new ring and still 9, so I guess I need a P/C, not sure what to do yet. I have not kept up with the new saws so no clue what to buy to replace my 346XP. I am hoping that a new P/C will fix me up, but I just don't know. I'm just a farmer with a wood burner, but need a saw that works.
Thanks
Zeek
If the saw isn't beat up bad rebuild it. look at the crank seals, impulse and fuel lines/filter if they need to be replaced do it at the same time.
 
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