365/372 kit builders thread

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Now it only needs some silver colored car deco foil where the Husky stickers should be, and to engrave the ID plate with the year it is built and my name on it;


I was a little worried about the oil pump because when the gas tank was about half empty the oil tank was only at perhaps 4/5, but I realized the oiler does plenty - the engine is just very, very thirsty...


I have ordered a Zama carb for it (the Dolmar 64/73/79 carb.) because it runs ok, but it leans out at the mid range rpm so I needed to force a very rich idle blend for it to perform properly.

I like it alot, it feels kinda slim and compact compared to the old Stihl's, and it have the spring AV buffers.

 

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Oh my... when I started this thread I had a vision of all kindsa pics from all stages of the build and lotsa different points of view from lotsa different people, problems and solutions, but its all just boring pictures of my cylinders...
I'm nearly to a close now and it may quickly fade in to oblivion.

Anyway, I thought I'd share something I think is worth mentioning.
You can see what I have done to the clutch/sprocket cover, I have removed the chain adjuster and re-mounted the chain adjuster crown gear plastic cover - then I have used a perfectly flat sanding bar and levelled the bar clamp surface:


I have got the Dolmar 64/73/79 Zama carb, it was not entirely plug and play; I had to enlarge the hole for the choke handle for it to fit, and I needed to make a 2mm long shim/spacer from a small plastic tube that I split with a Dremel diamond disk and had it in front of the throttle wire cable tube inside the aluminum throttle wire bracket - to in effect shorten or tighten the throttle wire - to get max throttle. I have fired it up but I don't know how it will run yet.

It runs perfectly fine with the carb that came with the kit, and the kit carb is actually slightly bigger at the venturi.
But mine needed to run really rich at idle for it to accelerate properly in the mid range without starving, it runs perfectly at idle though - just gets lotsa fuel and is adjusted with a high throttle idle adjustment for it to run with the rich blend.

I've put some final effort into it, making it look nice. I have mounted the ID plate with screws so I can engrave it later with: "Husqvarna 365 special, "my name", 2022". Put some silver colored stickers on it and some matte black engine paint on the plastic at the felling guide line after sanding the surface lightly with 400 grit.

Now nobody will know I'm just a poor ol sodd that just cant afford a real chainsaw

Now all thats left is I'll make a video when I fire it up and adjust the carb to my satisfaction.

 

[sean donato]

Ita been an interesting read for sure. I'm not much into kit saws, but it seems you'll have a decent saw for your money spent. Looking forward to your run video.

 

[link]

Ok, I made a video.
Not great quality, but it have sound and it shows the end result in action.
365/372 at 52mm bore, 76,5cc. No base gasket and a Hyway popup piston.
It needs 10 tanks of fuel to get sorted, now it has about one...

Thanks for watching, cheers!

 

[auskip07]

Ok, I made a video.
Not great quality, but it have sound and it shows the end result in action.
365/372 at 52mm bore, 76,5cc. No base gasket and a Hyway popup piston.
It needs 10 tanks of fuel to get sorted, now it has about one...

Thanks for watching, cheers!

was deleting the base gasket worth it considering you have a popup?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

was deleting the base gasket worth it considering you have a popup?

You have to measure the squish distance to determine if you have room to delete the base gasket, I like .025- .017 max.

 

[Jza]

One thing I learnt from building one of these is .... don't jump the gun ... I went crank case > cylinder > handle . had to back track because of manifold then that stupid thing that sits above the handle doesn't go in if the manifold is there..

I don't know if that made sense but it was super frustrating..

In hindsight if I left the cylinder till last the saw would of been a breeze

Should of done abit more research instead of racing into it lol

 

[bwalker]

I was googling some and at this point I just wants to understand a little more about 2 stroke engines, I know the basics alright - but exactly why does people do what they do to their cylinders in their quest to make them run "better" than what the educated designers and engeneers who originally made them have concluded with.

I am not going to change any timing or do changes to my cylinder other than making the transitions and channels smooth. I am not going to remove material that would make the air/gas flow at a reduced velocity, or that might reduce the vacuum and compression below the piston because of a larger volume as a result.
I just like to be on the safe side of things, doing modest changes that cannot be negative in any way.

But I am still qurious obviously, so I found this thread using google and I think it was really interesting.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/the-myth-of-high-compression-in-2-strokes.320432/

That thread is referencing engines with tuned pipes which boost compression well beyond static compression by rating scavenged mixture back into the combustion chamber.
Even a ported saw is has real low compression ratio despite have something like 190psi on a comp gauge.
Dennis Cahoon one time stated that much of the gain in a ported saw is from boosting compression. IIRC he said it was something like 75%. I tend to believe him.
The 372 is still available overseas. Contact forum member Robinwood and buy one of those instead of wasting time and money on this Chinese junk.