441

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

Lightning Performance

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Jul 30, 2021
Messages
444
Reaction score
268
Location
Cherry Hill
So ones a husqvarna tool and the other a stihl. You can push the crank out the flywheel side with the husqvarna tool the attach the stihl tool to the bar studs and push the crank free from that side.( thats how I did it. )
There's no knock off for the flywheel side case for stihls tool and it was several hundred dollars as I was informed by my dealer.
The stihl tool will also draw the crank back into the case on the pto/clutch side.
So does a threaded piece of pipe. Add a big spacer then add onto your crank threads with a pipe chunk threaded inside and out. One nut two washers and some grease. More spacers or washers keeps things moving along.

It's faster to heat the bearing already in the case and install the crank straight away from the fridge, freezer or a cooler work area. Put the seal in last just be mindful of the bur for the crank key slot. The Husky splitter tool is nice and easy for disassembly of most small engines with a split case design. Tapping out a crank is no big deal with the ends protected. Hammering one in isn't really recommend.

I know you know all this but it's for benefit of others who don't.
 

flatsfisher

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
340
Reaction score
464
Location
florida
pretty sure this is not going to be worth fixing. what I would need:

piston/cylinder kit
crank bearings and seals
gaskets- crankcases, base, carb, exhaust
carb kit
air filter
rim sprocket
clutch bearing
chain/sprocket cover and guard (missing)
inner side plate (missing)
annular buffers and stop buffers for AV system
fuel and impulse lines
metal sleeve that goes in carb boot
muffler cooling plate and insulating pad (missing)
all orange plastic (hammered)
air filter cover latches
chain catcher
bar and chain (could use from one of my other saws but only have up to 20")
probably more than this. always is.

fuel tank would work but is beat to hell also
ordered a case splitter and may find out that big end bearing on crank is bad. hard to tell right now.
 
Joined
Dec 3, 2008
Messages
5,598
Reaction score
4,307
Location
Peoples Republic of North Jersey
what do you guys use to split the cases on these saws? none of my dirt bike splitters seem to want to work on this. I read the service manual, but I don't have the specialized Stihl brand tools they reference.
I've used all three types and many times I've used "heat" and a few taps with a hammer and they pop apart. .
If you understand HOW the tools perform their purpose you can easily reproduce a similar method. Many ways to skin a lizard.
 

Maintenance supervisor

Every 100yrs, All new people...
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2019
Messages
3,961
Reaction score
5,973
Location
South Carolina
pretty sure this is not going to be worth fixing. what I would need:

piston/cylinder kit
crank bearings and seals
gaskets- crankcases, base, carb, exhaust
carb kit
air filter
rim sprocket
clutch bearing
chain/sprocket cover and guard (missing)
inner side plate (missing)
annular buffers and stop buffers for AV system
fuel and impulse lines
metal sleeve that goes in carb boot
muffler cooling plate and insulating pad (missing)
all orange plastic (hammered)
air filter cover latches
chain catcher
bar and chain (could use from one of my other saws but only have up to 20")
probably more than this. always is.

fuel tank would work but is beat to hell also
ordered a case splitter and may find out that big end bearing on crank is bad. hard to tell right now.

To be honest I saved money going to my dealer for new parts, he was cheaper than EBay.
I have some decent used parts packed away, air filters, clutch drum (same as the 044/ms440 set up), I might have a clutch cover, ( those you can get cheap after market) .
Depends on what you're aiming at, my carburetor one is not the prettiest thing but I use it at work in my saw rotation. The M-tronic is very nice and is all oem , it doesn't rattle around in my truck much ,but its done some multiple felling jobs with me.
You figure out what you want and determine if thats a builder or a parts saw.
 

flatsfisher

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
340
Reaction score
464
Location
florida
To be honest I saved money going to my dealer for new parts, he was cheaper than EBay.
I have some decent used parts packed away, air filters, clutch drum (same as the 044/ms440 set up), I might have a clutch cover, ( those you can get cheap after market) .
Depends on what you're aiming at, my carburetor one is not the prettiest thing but I use it at work in my saw rotation. The M-tronic is very nice and is all oem , it doesn't rattle around in my truck much ,but its done some multiple felling jobs with me.
You figure out what you want and determine if thats a builder or a parts saw.
not looking for a showpiece, just like my stuff to look decent. actually, with a little elbow grease (and some fine sandpaper) this morning I got the fuel tank/handle looking quite a bit better.

just found out that Hyway makes a nikasil 52mm overbore top end for this saw. I wonder?
PXL_20220921_160753667.jpg PXL_20220921_160801023.jpg
 

flatsfisher

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2022
Messages
340
Reaction score
464
Location
florida
this black spot I think is where the remains of the small piece of ring ended up. there was a pile of gritty metal dust packed there. was like a gritty powder mixed with oil.

is the brown color inside the crankcase halves from overheating? or is it normal from the saw running?
PXL_20220922_181826390.jpg
 

maulhead

ArboristSite Guru
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
974
Reaction score
1,811
Location
Colorado
this black spot I think is where the remains of the small piece of ring ended up. there was a pile of gritty metal dust packed there. was like a gritty powder mixed with oil.

is the brown color inside the crankcase halves from overheating? or is it normal from the saw running?
View attachment 1019137



Most all used saws look like that inside the crankcase, not from over heating IMO.
 
Joined
Dec 3, 2008
Messages
5,598
Reaction score
4,307
Location
Peoples Republic of North Jersey
this black spot I think is where the remains of the small piece of ring ended up. there was a pile of gritty metal dust packed there. was like a gritty powder mixed with oil.

is the brown color inside the crankcase halves from overheating? or is it normal from the saw running?
View attachment 1019137
The "brown" is normal heat cycling/age...the black stuff is NOT..
It looks like the beginnings of corrosion. That "gritty" stuff is hell on bearings. I'd wanna seal that stuff off somehow
 

Latest posts

Top